Emmons P/P problems

Peter Leavenworth · From: Madbury, New Hampshire, USA

I have an old Emmons D-10 and I have 2 problems:
1) I have difficulty on the C6 neck getting strings to go down a step or two and raise a step or two as well. For instance, I can get the 10th string low C to go down to an A but not up to a D - and it used to be able to! I can re-adjust so that it goes up to the D - but then it won't go to the A. I've tried new strings of different gauges but there does not seem to be enough play any more. Any advice?
2) My guitar came with 4 kneelevers but instead of each on either side of each knee, they are set up in pairs on the outside of each knee. You can't even reach the more forward lever on either side. Why would they be set up like that? I can figure out how to move them, but it's quite a project. Confused

Paul Sutherland · From: Placerville, California

Regarding your first problem; I suspect there isn't enough slack in the raise linkage, which then restricts the lower changer finger from going all the way to its end position, &/or you don't have enough travel in the raise pedal.

I suggest that you first loosen the collar at the bell crank on the raise rod so that depressing the pedal does nothing to the changer. Then "tune the changer". (If you don't know exactly what that means tell me.) Then tune the open string position and the lower so they both are in tune.

Then reset the collar on the raise rod, but make sure you leave a healthy amount of slack between the collar and the bell crank. The raise rod has a hook that goes into the finger of the changer. That hook should not put any tension on the finger when the lower is activated. If the raise hook is putting pressure on the finger when the lower pedal is engaged, then the lower won't make it all the way down to pitch.

Once you have enough slack, then you need to make sure the raise has enough travel to cause the finger to hit the body of the guitar. You add or subtract travel using the hex screw in the front apron.

(Side note: which of the three holes in the finger that you put the raise hook affects the travel. I use the middle hole.)

At first it may seem like a lot of adjustment to make, but once everything is properly set up both the raise and lower should work reliably.

Regarding the second problem; can't speculate why it's set up that way but I would certainly change it. It is a big job. Good luck.

Peter Leavenworth · From: Madbury, New Hampshire, USA

Thanks, Paul, I do not know what "tuning the changer" refers to - but I'd love to know.
Pete

Larry Bell · From: Englewood, Florida

This will help a LOT
http://www.melmusic.com/laceyj/guide.html

Tuning the changer is simply a matter of setting the two setscrews at the endplate for each string. When the changer is in tune you can manually move the raise and lower fingers to ensure that the maximum raise and lower are tuned properly. You need enough room to complete those maximum changes to tune properly.
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12

Paul Sutherland · From: Placerville, California

"Tune the changer" means to get the changer tuning adjustment screws set so the changer makes both the raise and lower properly, without involvement (or perhaps interference) of the pedal or lever linkages. When the changer has been properly tuned, then the linkages can be set/adjusted. But you MUST start by getting the changer in tune.

To do this start by taking the pedal or lever linkages out of the equation. This primarily means loosen the collar that is on the raise rod by the bell crank. (You probably don't need to do the same for the lower rod, but in an extreme case you might need to do this as well).

Then tune the string open (with no pedal or lever engaged). This is just to get the string in the ballpark, and is not the final tuning for the open string.

Then reach underneath the guitar with one hand and find the changer finger for the string in question. This is awkward at first but it gets easier with experience. (I use my right hand on the changer finger.) Then push the changer finger to the raised position until the finger is fully depressed against the body of the guitar. While holding the finger against the body, pluck the string and tune the string again using the tuning key at the keyhead of the guitar. (I use my left hand for the plucking and tuning key adjustment.) You are tuning the string to the fully raised pitch.

Now that the raise has been tuned, you have to re-tune the open (no pedal or lever) pitch. This is done by using the hex head wrench on the appropriate string's tuning screw, which is on the lower row of tuning screws on the changer end plate. At first is may seem odd to tune the open string at the changer end of the guitar and not using the normal tuning keys, but a push-pull is a different king of beast and it is absolutely necessary to tune the changer in this manner.

Now that the raise and open position have been tuned it's time to tune the lower. Reach under the guitar and push the finger the opposite direction until the finger makes full contact with the lower tuning screw. Tune the lower using the hex wrench on the appropriate tuning screw found on the upper row of the tuning screws on the changer end plate. (I switch hands for this. I use my left hand on the finger and my right hand for the plucking and adjustment with the wrench.)

That's it. Now the changer should be in tune for the full raise and full lower for the string in question. (On a string like the 4th string of the E9 neck, you tune the F# this way, and then you have to tune the F pitch using a half-tone tuner.)

Once the changer has been properly tuned you then must make the linkages function correctly so that the changer is allowed to perform as it should. Seems complicated at first, but it's all very logical.

Peter Leavenworth · From: Madbury, New Hampshire, USA

Thanks again, Paul, your explanation is very clear and makes sense to me. I like working on my steel, but only when it's successful (like my car)! I knew there must be someone out there who knows these old changers backward and forward, literally. I love this guitar and its tone. Unfortunately, the body finish is kind of beat up. It's a heavy green tinted semi-transparent lacquer. Is there anyone who works on old steel guitar finishs that I could ask about how to repair this?

Peter Leavenworth · From: Madbury, New Hampshire, USA

Larry, thank you as well, that link was also very informative. Peter

richard burton · From: Britain

If you tune the changer as Paul suggested, just be careful that the rod that lowers the finger doesn't drop out of its hole (when you push the finger backwards to tune the lowest note)

It's not a problem if you are aware of it, and it is a simple task to pop the rod back in.

Just a heads up

Peter Leavenworth · From: Madbury, New Hampshire, USA

Thanks Richard, I know what you're talking about but I wouldn't have thought of that - until it fell out.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: