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Topic: Steel guitar build project - looking for some binding ideas |
John Bushouse
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Posted 22 Mar 2011 4:13 pm |
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Hi all,
I'm in the process of building two lap steels, a 6-string and an 8-string. The two will be identical except for the neck width (and number of strings, etc.). They are inspired by the old Gibson EH-150s, with a few modifications to the body shape. Mahogany body, quilted maple top, flame maple neck, and an ebony fingerboard and headstock cap.
- What do you all think about binding? I was thinking of going with white with white-black purfling, similar to pictures I've seen.Other options would be tortoise, or wood bindings (several different options).
- What would you suggest for the fret lines? The same as the binding (if the binding is light colored), or something different?
- I'm also thinking of doing something similar with binding the fingerboard. What would you suggest for fingerboard binding? Same as the body, same material as the fretlines, something different?
Thanks in advance for your advice. |
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Glenn Uhler
From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 22 Mar 2011 6:26 pm Bindings
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John,
There are at least two binding colors you haven't mentioned, and I favor one of them. Are you staining the mahogany or maple? That will make a difference in the binding color you choose.
The two colors you haven't mentioned are ivoroid and pearloid. Personally, I think brite white bindings are too stark unless you have a painted guitar. In twenty years the white binding will look OK. I prefer ivoroid to harmonize with the mahogany, ebony and maple colors.
Make sure you put the white side of the purfling against the ebony and the black against the lighter binding, otherwise it will get "lost". Normally, tortoise and wood bindings would get only black purfling. The bindings were originally there to protect the guitar edges, not necessarily to dress it up.
2. Same meterial as the binding. If you don't, it will look like you ran out of binding or purfling halfway through the job.
3. Same as above. You need a good small router or laminate trimmer to do a good job of binding the headstock and fingerboard. Thinned Duco cement usually makes a good adhesive for plastic binding, but do a full-scale edge mock-up to make sure you get everything right before you bind the instrument.
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1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 23 Mar 2011 5:50 am Here are a few Eye-Deers
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These are examples of what you are asking about.
I have Both Black White Black Perfel and Tortoise on the Guitar and Tortoise on the Fret Board.
To do the Edge banding it takes 2 router tracks and is nerve racking to say the least. If your lap steel is completely flat on the top then for sure use a router table, opposed to a trim type router. These are reasonable low cost and will be a great addition to any workshop.
I can go into greater detail if any one wants to know the Secrets - which are not so secret. 
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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Glenn Uhler
From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 23 Mar 2011 3:13 pm Bindings
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George,
Nice job on the steel. Are my observations on binding close to correct?
_________________
1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 23 Mar 2011 5:47 pm Bindings
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Dear Glenn Your concepts are all good.
A Few Thoughts - from my experience.
Tortoise and Ivoroid are both Celluloid, a shipping sur-charge will be levy'ed because they are Flammable - so add 20 dollars to your order.
The Thicker the Binding the more difficult it is to install. The Plastics - Cellulose type are able to be heated to make the bends around body curves. A True Wood Binding requires a heat tube unit to pre-bend and pre fit all of the binding before installation. A lot more expense and effort, but beautiful results can be gained. I don't know if it is worth it for only 2 pieces.
Binding Snips are another 20 dollar tool that is recommended. The Binding sales places sell the Glue and special tapes required to install them. John will need to purchase a Flat Steel Scraper too.
The Fret board is fairly easy to bind and no biggie. The Fret lines, a wide variety of options. There are specialty Jigs for table saw use to cut the lines, even more tools, custom Saw Blades to invest into.
Pre Cut Ebony fret boards can be purchased for many guitar scale lengths, but I've never seen one for a 22.5 scale.
Typically these are cut to accept normal Fret Wire, more yet specialty tools to cut-trim-hammer all for only 2 instruments.
You will need to Custom order a special cut to accept some thing like a binding as an inlayed fret line.
John might contact BlueStem and or Allison to see if they will sell him a pre made Ebony Fret Board then he would only need to bind and finish it out.
1 last thing about bindings .... get an extra large can of BenGay - IcyHot - TigersBalm - installing these will make your hands ache for weeks 
I've blown out the muscles around my thumbs several times and it takes months or even years to get the playing dexterity back.
Please don't let this stop anyone, Bindings are very worth it, they are beautiful and have saved my most exotic woods and finishes from Bar Drops more times than can be counted.
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 24 Mar 2011 10:07 am
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I've always been fond of checkered binding. Bet it's a real pain to do though.
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Glenn Uhler
From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 24 Mar 2011 12:24 pm Checkered Bomding
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John,
Nice figured maple on the guitar. The checkered binding is no more difficult than a solid binding. The plastic is already black and white checkerboard. Did you think we glued each of those little squares down seperately?
What's the white plastic thing that looks like a "D" on your guitar. Looks like a teething ring. 
_________________
1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 24 Mar 2011 12:33 pm
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Glenn,
That guitar is a top o' the line Kay Pro! Awesome bottleneck guitar. The teething ring is an old Fender string stretcher. Ya wanna tune up and not have to keep tuning up cuz the strings be strechin'? That's what you need. Great tool, specially if you break a string on stage.
I would have thought that the checkered binding would be tough in tighter corners, like inside a cutaway, or the very sharp rounded corner on a Tele??
JB |
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Glenn Uhler
From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 27 Mar 2011 5:32 pm Checkered Binding
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John,
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. Any binding is tough in tight places. On sharp corners, both inside and outside, you would always do a mitered corner. If you have a choice, you should start on a sharp corner with a pre-glued miter. You cut one of the checkers exactly in half to make both sides of the miter. Split the difference at the end of the fingerboard.
You will probably need to heat the binding to get it to curve around the corners. Use a side bender so you can control the heat. Don't try to use a heat gun or open flame. The stuff will melt before you get it bent. Plastic is not a good conductor of heat.
When you get to the butt of the instrument, split the difference on the checkers. That way, you end up with only one checker thats a little wider or narrower than the others.
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1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
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John Bushouse
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Posted 27 Mar 2011 8:23 pm
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Thanks for the great advice... now where do I find checkerboard binding?  |
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Steve Perry
From:
Elizabethtown Ky, USA
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John Bushouse
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Posted 30 Mar 2011 9:55 pm
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| Thanks! |
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