Instead of asking "which tunings on my D-8"...

[Mike Neer]

...maybe players should ask which string gauges they should use. Let me explain:

If a player is set on having a tuning on one neck with a 1st string E and another tuning with a higher pitched 1st string, such as C6 with a high G, there are many other tunings which a player can access using the right strings. For instance, with a typical C6 set (1st string E), it is easy to retune to A6, E9, B11 and several other tunings. Same with a C6 set that has a high G 1st string: it can be retuned to E6, E13, F#9 et al. Doesn't take much effort to do once you get the hang of it, and unless you're on the bandstand, you can certainly take your sweet old time with it. There are so many options available to you.

Just thinking out loud or maybe stating the obvious.

[Nils Fliegner]

When I was starting out I wasted a lot of money buying new strings to try out different tunings, not realising that most can be accomplished with the same set of strings.
So, ignoring "special FX tunings" like Joaquin's high B or extra low bass strings à la hawaiian C13, it all boils down to:

·The HIGH set: 010-014-017-020-024w-030w-035w-042w
·The LOW set: 014-017-020-024w-030w-035w-042w-050w

Those gauges are not engraved in stone, but you get the idea...

P.S.: For six stringers it would be 014-017-020-024w-030w-035w, as the higher version 010-014-017-020-024w-030w sounds kinda thin, IMHO.

[Stan Schober]

Not exactly obvious to everyone, Mike, and quite a spot on observation !

Like Nils, I was wasting a few strings here and there until I hit on Rick Alexander's Tuning page. It can be an eye opener when you see it all laid out in front of you. His videos on re-tuning are helpful also.

http://www.rickalexander.com/BigSteel/Tunings.html

[Les Anderson]

.....of which my question will be, other than another long experienced steel guitar player, how many out of 10,000 people (including average steel players)will be able to tell what gauge of strings you are using and in which tuning?

I have had a five year ongoing quiz with various band members to have them tell me what gauge of strings I am using, tuning and if they are wound or smooth. To tell you the truth, 99.9% of the time it is only the steel player himself who will hear the difference.

I no longer change strings and gauges according to our gig's venue. The only time I do change out is when we are doing a Hank Williams special or Hawaiian theme gig. Typically however, I just re-string the second neck for the H.W. or Hawaiian portion of the show; everything else is on the front neck in C6th.

[Jesse Adams]

Scale length also seems to play a big part in what tunings can be achieved with what gauges. A buddy of mine dropped his C6 down to an A6 on his shorter scale guitar and said the low strings sounded loose an muddy. but if I drop my C6 down to an A6 with the same gauges on my longer scale guitar it's fine.

[Mike Neer]

Scale length is definitely a big factor. I hate when the strings feel slack and when they're too tight it's just as bad. That's why John Ely's string gauge guide is a good idea, because you can factor in your scale length in trying to nail down a pre-made string set.

[Mike Neer]

Scale length also seems to play a big part in what tunings can be achieved with what gauges. A buddy of mine dropped his C6 down to an A6 on his shorter scale guitar and said the low strings sounded loose an muddy. but if I drop my C6 down to an A6 with the same gauges on my longer scale guitar it's fine.

You know, I'm still trying to make sense of this. If he tuned C6 as: E C A G E C A G and then A6 as E C# A F# E C# A F#, then the only differences are the fact that string 2 and 6 get raised 1/2 step and strings 4 and 8 get lowered 1/2 step. Really shouldn't that dramatic of a difference. However, if he tuned from a high G C6 down to A6, no way that's going to work.