The Steel Guitar Forum

I bought a MSA The Universal 12.
behind the pickup there is a space, it looks like there should be something there but I don't know what.
If someone has the same model can they post if there is something missing or is this how it should be

At one time there were 2 changer axle stabilizers there that the axle went through and then they were fastened to the area where the holes are. I'm not sure they were necessary. I've got one at the shop and check to see what's on that one.

Hi John. I have two MSA 12 string universal XL guitars.The pickup on yours has been changed it should be a supersustain II (IMHP a fantastic pickup ). The pre drilled holes you are asking about are where that pickup mounts in the rear and the hole in the front is a mount/adjust spot.As long as your pickup is mounted solid and can be adjusted your fine.That is a really nice guitar but you should have at least 4 more pedals and 4 knee levers to make it a univerasl E9/B6.Great guitars I love both of mine.

Thanks for your replies , The guitar has 5 knee leavers
and the mountings for 4 more pedals. it sounds great but could do with a going over. The under carriage is not MSA parts as far as I know.also one of the ball joints has snapped off and one of the pedal rods has broken..
Would any of you guys have a rodding chart for this guitar.

The two outside holes are for the pickup base and the 4 inside holes are for the changer axle supports (2 on each side). As far as a rodding chart it won't help too much other than in a general way as the guitar came with round cross shafts and different bellcranks with only 4 holes and different spacing and don't resemble what is currently under there.

John, I think I had that very guitar of yours a few years ago. I only kept if for a few months. I remember that white pick/up...not sure the make as it's not one of those super sustain pick/ups. Also the metal "pad" was made by Paul Mitchell. Is the Jack socket in the usual place on the end plate?? because they used to be on the back of the guitar near the player, and it was uncomfortable to use my Bosstone, so I got Dave Wiggins who lives near me alter the hole and drilled it to fit on the end plate. That will deffinately confirm it's the same guitar. It had a great tone, only got rid of it was because of the weight. My Sho-Bud uni's heavy enough. This was just before I got my Carter uni. Got that in 2003. Cheers,

Micky Byrne U.K.

www.micky-byrne.co.uk

Me again....when I had it, it had 8 pedals and 5 knee levvers.

Micky Byrne U.K.

John, even with the non-MSA parts, it looks as if it will be playable with a few repairs. First, get a new pedal rod, or have one made for you at a local machine shop. That broken ball joint can be extracted from the pedal also...maybe at the machine shop.

That would give you 3 pedals to work with. Now, if you wanted to get it back to it's original glory, just send it to a good steel shop, like Jim Palenscar's, and let him work his magic. He's great with situations like this. But maybe there's someone in your neighborhood like him you could turn to.

The MSA "The Universal" is one fine instrument and is very worth rebuilding. I know I would, if it was mine. So, stick with it. You'll be glad you did.

As far as the copedant goes, just set it up as an extended E9th. Here's a link with some ideas....

http://www.b0b.com/tunings/ebovine.html

I'm sure others can help with the tuning and setup, also.

www.steelguitarinf.com/MSAdownloads/ownersmanuals/MSA

I think this is where I downloaded the manual for my 73 D12
(hope the syntax is correct)
Rick

PS: I've always wondered why I have 2 plastic clips, in your pups "empty space".
thanks to all

PPS: Tom Bradshaw sells MSA parts

Hi Micky. Thanks for your advice. yes the guitar has a great tone. I can do most of the work myself. the hardest part is finding the parts to do the job. I don't like the pedals, the angle is not right for me.
I like the Sho-Bud super pro type. At the moment I am waiting for major surgery on my spine , this is holding me up as I can just about walk and the pain is unbearable.
I was wondering how much it would cost to get someone to restore it back to a universal and would it be worth it..

Don't know if mine is before, or after yours. Here is a pic of the pup on my S12,"The Universal", it doesn't have the holes in the center like yours.

John, Is 'Bennett' still around, do think he might have a crack at it?

Thanks Bill & Larry. I think Ronny Bennett is still making steels. I would like to do this myself if I can find the parts for it.

Tom bradshaw on this side of the pond has all the parts john.
Google him, he has a website. It can get preeety exspensive as you well know.

Not sure where you go in 'England' matey, but i thought 'ronnie' might have a dose of old M.S.A parts laying around, dident he used to work on all those back then.

Thanks Larry. I'll get in contact with Ronnie, might be in luck. I hate to good guitars ruined like this one. what was he or she thinking...

John Roche wrote:Thanks Larry. I'll get in contact with Ronnie, might be in luck. I hate to good guitars ruined like this one. what was he or she thinking...

Bad thing he/she was, not thinking...FWIW, ser# on mine is, 1C6910, according to Reese, it was made in 1982 may help date yours.

All the best..Bill

Hi Bill. mine is 1c6586, so will be older then yours.
I have trouble to make all the G# to A pull at the same time. I have tried lots of combination with no luck . they are either too stiff or too long. can you let me know how you rodded your guitar, it may put me in the ballpark for the best setup , Thanks again

John,
As you can see, mine still has factory parts, whereas yours has been altered/replaced with non MSA parts.The link below may help you understand setting up the pedal travel/feel better than I could, also a lot of good info on this site..Hope this helps...Bill

http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/adjustme ... ction.html

Have you tried giving the pedal more travel by adjusting the Tiny hex key in the alumunium for the pedal stop and making some adjustments.
Mine are set, top hole in fingers and 2nd from the top on the bell crank with guitar standing up.
The nearer to the body you put the rods on the bellcrank the easier the pull, but need more lenghth, it's a trade off.
3 and 6 don't need much pull but 3rd string will need more pull than 6 so you might try putting the 3rd string pull in the 3rd/4th hole [away from the body] in bell crank hole.

What gauge 6th you running john?? Plain/wound?? 22/20?

Thanks Bill & Larry. your replies have been helpful.
I now have the B pedal pulling all the strings at the same time. I will do some more work on the steel as soon as my painful back gets a little better..

Not sure if the later ones had these supports , but the Classic did and the holes look about right .

This is from one I made the pickup pocket for but it shows the supports .

Hope this helps .