The Steel Guitar Forum

Any owners that have done any minor work or adjustments?.. Added changes?I t looks simple enough to change the copedent... anything weird I should know about???

There are some Allen screws in the back of the changer, that look to be stops of some sort.. Haven't looked close as yet. Can someone let me know what they are?


I see Chucks changer uses adjustable lower return springs.. I should have no trouble with them if I should ever have to adjust them, I have seen them on other brands, and had no problems adjusting them properly, but I plan on keeping my mitts off of this one for now.

The pedal bar seem to have some type of insert in the front.. Does this come out??. I plan on adding some pedals, and it looks like the rack clamp screws may have to come out to get pedal brackets in.. If no one knows, I guess I can ask Chuck when I buy the pull parts.
Lastly, what is the GeorgeL pickup in this guitar??. Is it a 10-1?.
Not sure anyone has gotten their greasy paws into a Desert Rose yet, as they haven't been around that long, but I figured a few guys have done a bit of tweaking and may be able to offer advice... bob

You are going to love it !!!!!

The Allen screws on the changer are probably for tuning splits. Mine doesn't have them but he's using them now.

There are no tricks to changing the copedant -- it's as easy as it looks. The rods come out from the bell cranks (I think that's what they're called) easily when you take out the cotter pins. (Then of course if you're like me you will drop the cotter pin in the most inaccessible part of the guitar, but that's only to be expected). The bell cranks may be a little hard to get off the cross shafts if they've been jammed down too hard but they do come off.

Mine has E-66's on it, don't know if yours are different.

I just started communicating with Chuck about a used DR I just got and he's very approachable even when you didn't buy it from him. I'm gradually getting it set up to my liking and liking it more and more -- they are beautiful guitars.

Mine doesn't have cotter pins Jim.. It has spring clips on 90 degree bent rods.. Its a time tested design I have seen on other guitars, including an old Willy keyless I had.. Copedent changes are quick.. I am in the middle of set up as I write.. Another thing I have NOT seen is the bent pedal pull rods... I sure hope they are SUPPOSED to be bent...

Bob,The Allen screws on the back of the changer are for splits,Once mine is set I usually don't have to adjust it again.

It is so simple Chuck Back can fix it.

Joking - just call Chuck - I know him well and worked with him for several years

B-4 steelseat.com came into my life - still talk to him 2 or 3 times a week

Info on www.desertroseguitars.com

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com

Bob,Could you post a photo of the bent rods? or email them to me if you have trouble posting them.

I'm pretty new to pedal steel, but I've started tinkering around with my Desert Rose, and its gone pretty well. I changed my pedal 4 over to a F# -> G change and it was dead easy. As well as changing the timing on some of my changes to get them to start/stop at the same time (my E lowers were off, one of them started before the other one) I need to change the action on my RKL to be softer/longer, but Its not a high priority. I also want to lower my pedals a little at some point.

The P/U in mine is a George L EON as far as I know.

My pedal pull rods are bent too. (The rods between the pedal itself going up under the cabinet) Its a subtle bend at the hook end, and I think its just to keep the rods from touching the cabinet or something.

Some of the pull rods are bent too near the changer, for the RKR changes that the bell cranks are so close to the changer so they pull straighter I think.