The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi All

I was wondering if anyone could offer any advice on building a pack a seat, dimensions, height, legs etc.

Thanks
Thomas Webb

I dunno but it's a good question. The commercial ones I see have aluminum parts with hydro formed offsets and legs with some pretty sharp engineering. Your seat height will be different from mine. The advantage to building your own would seem to be so it's a custom fit. Anyway,

Bump

I am in the process of building one . The company that i work for has all the equipment and wood materials to do this . They did a overkill on the inside of it and laminated '' mica '' in there also . I have '' mica '' on the outside of mine ,i know most don't but i like to be different . Mine has black mica inside and out with a divider inside . The size and leg height is up to you when you build your own seat . I bought a new ''Steelers Choice '' seat and i doubt if anyone can beat theirs . My wife and i added the padding on the seat and i can't wait until i finish it . This seat will stay in my music room i think .

I built one a few years ago, still use it!

It has lots of space, and is very strudy.
The onle thing i didn`t do completly myself, was bending the legs, I got some help from a plumber to do that on a bendingbench.



To find my perect height, I used a pianoseat with height adjustment, when I found the comfertable height, I just used that for the seat.

I might get slammed for this but if I were you I would just call Ray Walker and buy one from him.You won't regret it.It's not as easy as it looks to make a quality seat.By the time you buy all the stuff you need and the time it takes to put it together you'll be better off.Besides Ray is a super guy to deal with.

Hey Ricky,
I would be the last to "slam" anyone for a suggestion about buy V build your own, but with that been said, if you enjoy woodworking and have access to tools to do it I say go for it, but if you are not familiar with, or don't have the tools needed/required to do the job, by all means stay away from it and buy what you need/want. Mangled fingers are too much of a hassle getting over(ask Bobbe)

Safety seems to be one of the most missed discussion topics here on the forum....Guys, please be careful with any power tool.Remember...the cost of one trip to the emergency room could very well pay for a new PSG with enough left over to buy a couple of extra goodies. Again I say...Ask Bobbe!!!!!!!

Thomas,

I built one over about 1 1/2 years ago and really enjoyed the process. I've got over 200 gigs on it now and it's holding up great. The whole process cost me between $50-$60.

I found there were three things that affected the final height of the seat; the length of the legs (mounted), the height of the box and lid, and the amount that the foam compressed when sat upon.

I'll send you some pictures of mine as it was being built and some things I did to determine the correct finished height, but it won't be until I get home from work tonight.

To those who have made one; what material did you use for the legs, and did you make a special jig to bend them? I don't think a conduit bender will bend it sharp enough.

A typical 1/2" / 3/4" conduit bender won't make a small enough radius.

I have a mig welder and went that route. I used 3/4" conduit. Worked great for me.

Could you send some pics to me too?
Or post them here...?

Interesting to see how you did it

I put this post together pretty fast, so sorry if there's any errors....

Steel Guitar seat w/back

Box dimensions (not including the seat top) : 8” tall X 16” wide X 13” deep (this is the basic box only)

The box is ½” plywood (good on 1 side grade)

The top piece of plywood that the foam pad sits on is ¾” thick (16 w X 13 d)

The bottom of the box is ¾” plywood.

The bottom of the box is recessed in 2 1/8” (measured from the bottom of the wood to the bottom of the box)

The two longest legs are 11 1/4”, the two shortest legs are 10”. I used ¾” conduit for the legs. The ends that are welded together are mitered at 90 degrees.

The block under the box that the shortest legs are mounted to is 1 ¼” thick. ( this allows the longest legs to fold up under the shortest legs and all of this is in the recessed cavity under the seat.

The braces on each of the legs are ¼” aluminum rod. This keeps the legs from collapsing when sitting on the seat. They also fold up into the cavity and retained by a small strip of Velcro.

Refer to the pictures: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/alb ... 9288IFXXzC


I built the basic box first with the bottom recessed and supported with ½’ aluminum angle. I attached the 1 ¼” leg block with wood screws, and the ¼” machine screw in the center to hold the aluminum brace that secures the leg braces. (My earliest pictures show this as a piece of wood painted black. I later changed this to a piece of aluminum channel with two sections filed out to lock in the leg braces.)

Next I attached the legs and checked everything for support integrity and level. The legs are attached to the box with ¾” conduit straps. This allows them to swing up for storage. The support braces were bent and inserted into holes drilled into each of the legs. The notches in the wood were made after I was able to ensure the legs were straight (later this piece was swapped out for the aluminum channel).

Next I covered the box using a cheap type of tolex and attached with contact cement. I then cut and inserted the dividers into the top of the box and glued tolex on to the top edges that would be seen when finished.

I then carpeted the inside cavities with indoor/outdoor carpet using contact cement. (I also used a piece of this to finish of the underside of the seat.)

Next I built the actual seat. I had a couple of hinges that came off of an old boat seat so I decided to use them and construct a back also.

I upholstered the seat and back and used two small hinges that would work well with the ¾” base of plywood. I used a piece of the carpet to finish of the underside of the seat as not to see the upholstery staples and hinges.

I ordered the two locking hinges for the front, the corner protectors, and the carrying handle from a music supply house. I added small corner braces to the top edges of the basic box for reinforcement. The bottom is painted with black paint.

You can get an idea of how stuff packs into my seat by looking at the pictures. You can design the box to be deeper with shorter legs, or shallower with longer legs depending on your personal needs. Don’t forget that the legs can’t be so long as to not fold up under the seat for travel, if this is a concern for you. There are many ways to reinforce the edges if necessary. If I had to do road work every day, I would use more reinforcement, but that also adds more weight. Wood thickness also can be increased, as will the weight. Coverings are a personal choice such as materials, colors, durability, etc.

Everything’s a trade-off between functionality, cost, and weight. Ninety percent of my materials were items I already had. My only purchases were the finishing hardware. I estimate this project to cost between $50-$60 if I had to purchase all the materials, with the exception of the boat seat hardware….I had several old seats, and even sent my left-over hardware from the other seats to forum members after I built mine. You might be able to find these hinges on Craig’s list. Look for old boat seats if you want a seat with a back. I would be just as content with a seat without one, and the reduced weght.

Let me know if I can be of any other help. Have fun and be safe…. Steve English

P.S. I should've said "If I was doing road work, I'd order one from one of the REAL builders"!!

Nice work, Steve!
I'm planning on building one too.

I will build you what you want - any color - several models to chose from and lots of options.

Check out my web site and email me or call me. I have 3 on order right now from Canada and have shipped several.

I helped a guy in New Zealand who is a jade carver build one by sending him hardware and he said NEVER AGAIN

Joe Naylor wrote:I will build you what you want - any color - several models to chose from and lots of options.

Check out my web site and email me or call me. I have 3 on order right now from Canada and have shipped several.

I helped a guy in New Zealand who is a jade carver build one by sending him hardware and he said NEVER AGAIN

on your slimline with sidekar an backrest an levelers price ?? to WA state

I built about a dozen seats in the late 80's/90's before I retired. One of them a Steeler in Alton, MO has, another was taken to St Louis one year and displayed on the Franklin Guitar Co table and was sold in less than 2 hours (it had mica covering). The last one I built, Don Sulesky is using and loves it.

I too used 3/4" conduit that was mitered and welded. They were done professionally by a friend who was the welding department supervisor at a company that makes stainless steel food processing equipment. They had all the equipment to miter them at the exact angle, weld, etc. The leg braces were made from stainless steel rod.

I used (brush finish) aluminum angle on all the edges and even at the top of the cabinet. They were all mitred and fit exactly - no corners were needed to cover the gaps at the molding corners but I did use them at the bottom corners.

Most of mine were covered in vinyl but one was covered in rosewood mica and the last two were carpet covered.

I used heavy duty "super foam" for the seat and covered them with cloth upholstery fabric. I used boat seat hinges for the seat back. A "piano" hinge was used for the lid.

this is mine.....18"w X 15"h X 15"d
really not that heavy ! most of jobs have ZERO stairs,slide out of car onto hand truck & bingo !


$50 k-mart boat seat....(left over) plywood & hardware from another project....stain/poly

I made one for myself over 35 years ago and it is still in top shape, just a slight snag on the upholstered seat. I will never build another one! What a job! I went all out and made it like an ATA flight case, complete with ABS covering, case angle all around, aluminum tongue and groove valence lid material, large locking latches, heavy flight case handle, partitioned inside and the interior red crushed plush lining, the seat is about 4 inches thick and made our of super foam, which is very firm. The top is black naughahide that I had an upholstery shop sew up and put a beaded edge banding around the top. I made the legs out of 1" x 1" x 1/8" thick square aluminum tubing. I cut the corners on a 45 degree angle and welded them together. I think it is the best built seat I have ever seen, but don't ask me to build you one. Not interested! Ray Walker's seat is the closest thing I have seen to it. Save your picking money and buy one from Ray. I considered for about 2 seconds going into the seat making business, but then I thought, who in their right mind would pay $500.00 for a seat, and this was 35 years ago!

Easy to assemble and comes in way under $100

Laughin killin me

I just got another order from a guy that had bought wood over a year ago and gave up.

His words (after he paid and received his seat) were less than a thousand would have been worth it.

I have found lots of different ideas - I guess the main thing is if it does not fall down in the middle of a gig it's OK (and I have even replaced a particular brand that has done that a few times)

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com

Bo......
COOL IDEA !

but my guitar player said I should install a commode in mine seein' I sounded like %#*@ anyway


****Bob V****

I BUILT MINE, SEEMS LIKE A HUNDRED YEARS AGO, WAIT
THAT WAS IN A GALAXY FAR AWAY. NAW SERIOUSLY, I
BUILT MINE ABOUT 20 YEARS AGO TO SIT WHEN I WAS
LEARNING TO PLAY A REGULAR GUITAR AND JUST ADOPTED
IT INTO THE STEEL ARENA, WHEN I STARTED LEARNIN, A
FEW YEARS AGO. IT IS TIME TO REPLACE IT AS IT IS
WORN OUR AND DOES NOT LOOK GOOD, ANYMORE. I AM IN-
DEBTED TO ALL OF YOU, WITH YOUR SUGGESTIONS AND
INVENTIONS. I THINK I WILL BUILD ONE JUST VERY MUCH
LIKE STEVE'S, I LIKE THAT DESIGN AND THE INGINUITY
THAT WENT INTO THAT.
HOPE YOU DON'T MIND, STEVE, IF I SORTA COPY YOU ON
SOME OF THAT. EXCELLENT JOB YOU DID THERE.