The Steel Guitar Forum

I have a Mullen U12 that had such a weird copedant that It was unplayable for the folks that tried it. There were no pulls on P3 or LKV, and FIVE pulls on P4, and that was the easy stuff.

I received a new copedent for a U12 [Thanks b0b] and there were no existing pulls that matched the new setup, so I removed all the pulls of the guitar to start from scratch. I plan on putting all the bellcranks in their new places first, then set up the pull rods. I labeled them as I pulled them, but I know I am going to have to purchase additional pull rods from Mullen to set it up as a playable U12, but I want to use as much of what I have as possible first.

My question is: Should I start at P1 and work towards the changer, or a LKL and work towards P1.

I think using the longer pulls first would make sense, but I am often wrong. I

Thanks In Advance,

Kenn

To each his own, but I have completely disassembled a number steels and re-rodded them. I have found it easier to start closest to the changer end and then work toward the key head side. It leaves much more room to reach the bell cranks as well as keeping the pulls as straight as possible. If you put the longest rods first you will find that you have to move them a number of times as you work toward the changer and it's much tougher to reach the bell cranks. Some of your longer rods will also have to travel over your bellcranks that are closer to the changer side.
Just my 2 cents worth
Good luck!
Dave

A bunch of good info here.

http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/infoindex.html

Click on rodding .

As David says start at the changer end . You will have less to work around and it will be much easier.

To each his or her own here but I like to start with the raises as typically the lowers are at the top making it difficult to get to the raises which would now be underneath. Also, since much of the time many of the lowers are closer to the changer I'll start with the A pedal (closest to the keyhead on an Emmons setup) and work my way back toward the changer as the C pedal raises will be on top of the A pedal due to the increase in the length of travel of the E-F# change. Also I believe that in balancing the pulls so that everything starts and ends at the same time for each change, priority is given to those most used changes- which many times for an E9th tuning are at the keyhead end (A and B pedal and the E raises and lowers) and then if I'm unable to get a change to be perfectly balanced then the lesser used changes are the ones that "suffer".

Listen to Jim P -- he knows of what he speaks

Rodding a U-12 is a much more challenging chore than any 10 string. Having double the pulls requires a lot more forethought. I'd start with the MAX raise AND MAX lower to be sure I get the pull I need without having to bend or cross rods. In fact I'd make a map of changer finger pos / bellcrank pos and think carefully about the routing of the rods on an individual string. String 5 will have all 3 raises (A and C pedals and one of the B6 pedals) and, if you keep the traditional C6 P4 A to B pull (G# to A# on B6) all three raises on your 6th string will be taken. It's just A LOT MORE CROWDED. The more optional changes you add, the TRICKIER IT GETS.

If you don't believe me, ask Jeff Surratt at Show Pro. He just built his first U-12 (mine, with more than 40 pulls on one changer) and I think he'd underestimated the complexity, even with all his experience. He got the pulls and timing perfect, but not without a lot of head scratching.

Just think the process through and make a good diagram of what you're doing before hooking a bunch of pulls up that will eventually have to be rerouted or disassembled.

I am a U12 player in Portland and have re-rodded a few in my day.
Feel free to give a ring if needed - 503-621-8209.

fwiw, Since it is totally de-rodded, you might just re-rod the E9th portion (or B6th portion if you are mainly playing Western Swing) and get the bugs worked out of those pedals/levers first.
Record all bellcrank/changer positions once you get them dialed in.

Thank you all for your thoughts ~ it is my first re-rod, so Pete, thank you especially for the lifeline! I have no real use for the U12, so it will probably be sold after I get it done. I inherited this from my wife's sister, who thought she would teach herself how to play. Unfortunately, the Copedant was so custom that none of the players I know could play it, nor was it recognized by anyone on the forum - Now she is discouraged - hence the total rerod. It is a bit challenging, but with all the helpful advice I get makes it easier. Now I have a lifeline!:eek:

As for my Sis-n-law, I hope to convince her to purchase a S10 4 + 3, but so far no luck, so I am going to give her a lap steel and some books/tab/cd to noodle with and hope for the best.

Kenn

Hi Kenn, Contact Maurice Anderson. He is the world authority on the universal tuning.Jody.

I, too, have re-worked many U12's and I can guarantee that Larry Bell's advice is absolutely right. I learned rodding the hard way back in the early 70's, and discovered Larry's method to be the best of all approaches.

Just take your time and don't shy away from re-doing things when you see a problem arise. Don't settle for "good enough"...it'll haunt you until you fix it right.

Have fun. It's very much worth the effort.

Kenn Geiger wrote:...I have no real use for the U12, so it will probably be sold after I get it done.

Hi Kenn, Hey if this is the case (that you have no use for it and plan to sell it), I would sell it "as-is" before re-rodding it, and here's why...
imho, Pretty much every U12 player has their own setup. Most U12 guys would love to buy an un-rodded guitar and do it themselves.
You might post pics here or in Buy and Sell and see what comes of it.
Just a thought.
pete b.

I just did a S`12 , i started with the raises @ the far end , ... it was only 7 & 5 27 changes... nice and easy just my 2 Bucks!