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Topic: How tight ? |
Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 1:18 pm |
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I am in the final assembly stage.
In the lacquer thread a couple of guys mentioned the importance of not over-tightening the wood screws.
How tight is tight enough? Don't tell me I need some sort of torque wrench!
-I am planning on tightening the neck(8 screws up through) just enough for it to stay put.
-On the other hand I feel that I need to tighten down the changer pillow blocks considerably. Two 1/4" screws in each block up thru the body and into the block about 5/8".
What do you all think? suggestions from experience would be greatly appreciated.
-Martin Weenick, old buddy, are you busy? 
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 1:59 pm
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It's a balancing act, Bent. Too loose and cabinet drop will haunt you, too.  |
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Ulf Edlund
From:
Umeå, Sweden
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 2:01 pm
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I'd tighten the changer, nut and maybe the keyhead as much as i dare, and the neck as loose as i dare.
I think vibes is the key word.
Anything that transports the string vibrations to the body should be tight and anything that can keep the body from vibrating should be loose. As James says it's a balancing act. You might be in for some trial end error. I went over my Emmons and adjusted the torque on vityally every screw. Twenty minutes of testing and tweeking and the guitar sounded considerably better, and most of all the sustain improved.
_________________
1983 Emmons D10 SKH, Carter SD10, Nashville 112, Session 500, ProfexII, Lapsteels, GT-Beard reso, guitars of all kinds...
http://www.myspace.com/ulfedlund
Last edited by Ulf Edlund on 16 Jun 2009 2:10 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Ulf Edlund
From:
Umeå, Sweden
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 2:13 pm
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Guess every model has it's own rules.
I also guess it's up to the builder to discover them 
_________________
1983 Emmons D10 SKH, Carter SD10, Nashville 112, Session 500, ProfexII, Lapsteels, GT-Beard reso, guitars of all kinds...
http://www.myspace.com/ulfedlund |
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Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 2:22 pm
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Got pictures se we can see the details with the parts in place?
I agree with Ulf, but find it a bit difficult to evaluate if the entire string tension is taken up by those screws or if some is transferred to the neck. |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 3:36 pm
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| Ulf Edlund wrote: |
I also guess it's up to the builder to discover them |
...or ask others and they are kind enough to reply. That works great too  
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 3:42 pm
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| Georg Sørtun wrote: |
Got pictures so we can see the details with the parts in place?
I agree with Ulf, but find it a bit difficult to evaluate if the entire string tension is taken up by those screws or if some is transferred to the neck. |
Georg, yes, pics will come as soon as there are more parts in place. I just started...rails and shafts in one guitar.
In my case I think that the vast majority of string tension will be taken up by the changer bolts and the bolts that hold down the key head. The neck will just offer a bit of sturdiness against the actual body twisting.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 7:13 pm
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| i think this could be a job for...'Steel Guitar Secret Tone Mod Man' ...!!! |
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Eldon Cangas
From:
Ontario, Canada
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Posted 19 Oct 2009 5:18 am
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From the posts here I'm asuming that the wood aprons that attach front & back to the top of the guitar (not quite sure of the terminology here) are only screwed in place. Correct yes, no??
Thanks, Eldon |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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