Sho-Bud Pro III Disassembly?

Ron Kassof · From: Las Vegas, NV, USA

Hi,
I'm in the process of cleaning/rehabbing my "new" Sho-Bud Pro III Custom. I've taken the changer backplate off, got the axle out, got the fingers and springs out and gave them all a well needed cleaning. Now I'm stuck as to how to remove the changer housing (the part that holds the axle, etc.). Can anyone explain to me how to remove this part? Take off fretboard/neck first? or what?

Also, next up is to install a Coop RKR lever - to replace the one that is missing. I'm going to put a Coop half stop on this. Does anyone have pics or instructions on how the half stop is installed/adjusted?

Thanks

Ron K

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Hi Ron,

I just recently rebuilt a Pro III. Here are a few photos.

In order to remove the changer housings, you do have to remove the necks. To do that you have to first remove the fret boards, because they cover up the screws that hold the necks to the cabinet.

As for the half-stop, you can kind of see it in one one of my photos, right behind the RL knee handle. That is where it is typiclally positioned. I like to set it up so that it works in conjunction with droping the 9th string. Doing that takes a little patience along with some trial and error but the effort will pay off. Please let me know if I can be of any more help, but there are many others here with lots more Sho~Bud knowledge than I have.

Good luck,

Lynn Stafford

Ron Kassof · From: Las Vegas, NV, USA

Thanks Lynn. Nice job on the rebuild. Fretboard's glued on, right? Heat gun + guitar string to remove it? Plain old contact cement to replace it?

Any more details on the half stop?

The legs on mine are a bit scratched up. Can they just be sanded/polished or do they need to be replated (then, what plating over which base metal?)?

Thanks again,

Ron K

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Ron,

Here is a photo that was taken before I took the guitar apart.

It shows a little more detail. In this case, the pull rod just goes through the changer hole and through the brass swivel. The brass barrell fine tunes the drop and the spring tension is adjusted via the set collar.

The legs on this guitar were in pretty bad shape too. I opted to just replace them with those "Airline Legs" made of chrome plated aluminum tubing. Those legs weigh a lot less than the steel ones. I suppose you could have a chrome shop strip and replate yours but it may not be very cost efficient to do that, rather than just replacing them. John Coop can make you a set using Atlas mic stand parts, just like the origionals. I think I got the aluminum legs through Jeff Surratt at Show Pro. If you choose to replace them, make sure you have them made exactly the same length, as your pedal rods don't have very much adjustment.

The fret boards are just stuck on with some kind of adheasive. I was able to peal them off the necks fairly easily and clean them up with Goof Off. I used double sided tape to reapply them.

Lynn

David Kellogg · From: Tualatin, OR

Lynn, you need to give some kind of a warning before you post pics of these guitars you restore. Man I need to be strapped in my chair with an oxygen tank real close or I could be in real trouble as well as maybe others here on the forum. Have some compassion here in the future man.

Ron Kassof · From: Las Vegas, NV, USA

Thanks again Lynn.

George Wixon · From: Waterbury, CT USA

Ron,
Here's a link to my site and the restoration I did on mine.
http://www.gwixon.com/restore.html
Some pics in the different stages I went through.
Removing the fret board was easy. Just grab a thin string like an .011 and gently work it in between the fret board and the neck and just go side to side. Then while pulling upward with the string gently slide it down the length of the neck in a sawing motion. You do not have to heat anything.
My fret board was actually on with double sidded tape and came off very easy.
George

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Lynn....

The dust catcher fretboards have screws that are visible from the top, I always assumed that was what held them on the necks. Is there adhesive on the underside as well?

(I didn't have to take the fretboards of my Pro II when I rebuilt it).

Lynn Stafford · From: Ridgefield, WA USA

Very funny Dave! Thanks so much for your comment. Oops, I just posted another one... better brace yourself!

Tony, these fret boards weren't screwed on, just suck on with contact adheasive.

Lynn

Ron Kassof · From: Las Vegas, NV, USA

OK...
Changers have been totally taken down, cleaned, and replaced. New fretboards from Jeff Surratt mounted on 0.093" plexiglas and screwed onto necks. RKR lever mounted.
Now..
I still can't figure out the Coop half stop. I've looked at a bunch of pics but for some reason I'm still dense about this. The half stop assembly comes on a rod a little thicker than a pull rod. No nylon tuner, or threads for one, at the changer-end of the rod, only a wrap of black tape to keep the bellcrank and sliding swivel from falling off.

It seems to me that if the rod was replaced by a pull rod on the string 9 lower, when RKR was activated string 2 would lower to D but string 9 wouldn't change since the pull rod would slide thru the swivel until it met the adjustable barrel, which would then "push" the pull rod to lower 9 to Db while 2 continued lowering to Db also.
This makes sense to me but it seems that all the pics I see have the half stop installed on string 2, and I can't make out if the half stop rod is going to the changer or if there's another rod in that bellcrank, etc.

Could someone please set me straight on this? I hope my explanation makes sense. I'll try to put pics up tomorrow if I can. Thanks!

Ron K

Martin Weenick · From: Lecanto, FL, USA

Ron, here is a half stop I made. Very easy to do, this is very simula

r to the old Sho-Bud. Martin
_________________
Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7

Martin Weenick · From: Lecanto, FL, USA

Ron, in the pic above, you see a rod running through a swivel on the bellcrank that is on the shaft. This rod passes freely through that swivel. When the shaft is activated the bell crank comes to the rear and hits the brass collar with the spring behind it. That collar should be adjusted to make contact when the bellcrank is about halfway back, or your string has lowered a half tone. You will feel the spring tension when the swivel hits the brass collar. (The collar) is stationary on the shaft with a set screw which you can see there. When you continue to lower down to a full tone the rod slides freely through the other swivel on the mounting bracket. All you have to do is adjust that front brass collar to make contact with the bellcrank at exactly a half tone drop. Hope that helps. If you are still not sure, I will send you my phone # in a private e-mail. Martin.
_________________
Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7

Martin Weenick · From: Lecanto, FL, USA

TTT
_________________
Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7

Ron Kassof · From: Las Vegas, NV, USA

Martin,
Thanks! I sent you an email via the Forum the other day.

Meanwhile, I think I have finally gotten it figured out. The half stop is just a "feel stop" that by itself doesn't activate or control any pulls. Idea

The String 9 pull rod is set to have enough slack that it doesn't start to pull the lower bar until String 2 has dropped a half step.
I do, however need to shim up the stationary bracket of the half stop with washers or such, to keep the rod from contacting Pedal 8 cross shaft.

Thanks, until next time.

Ron K

Martin Weenick · From: Lecanto, FL, USA

Ron, for some reason I didn't receive your e-mail but you are correct on your thinking on how the half stop works. Martin.
_________________
Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7

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