The Steel Guitar Forum

From the pics I see on Asher's site, it looks like the wraparound bridge is more like the stop tailpiece used as a bridge. Is that the case? or would the actual LP Jr bridge(or replacement) work better in that application?

If you're thinking about compensated wraparound bridge, as on this LP Junior -



- then there's no need for that on a lap steel, so a standard wraparound stop tailpiece, as on the EH Junior, works just fine.
The replacements offered by Asher, made by TonePros, has a slightly sharper edge on top than most regular stop tailpieces, which I believe adds more clarity and definition to the tone (possibly in combination with the TonePros locking system).

Steinar...ever notice any fitment issues with the posts seeming as if they're being pulled out by the tension...top flange of the post not being flush to the body?

No, not on mine, they still sit as they should.

Can't really see how that could happen on a lap steel, since all the tension is directed forward with no upward tension. On a Les Paul I can imagine it might become an issue since the tension is both forward and upward.

Corwin Colebrooke wrote:From the pics I see on Asher's site, it looks like the wraparound bridge is more like the stop tailpiece used as a bridge. Is that the case? or would the actual LP Jr bridge(or replacement) work better in that application?

The stop tailpiece works just fine as is. If you don't mind a radius (curve) on the strings, there's no need to do anything. OTHO, if you want to play with a flat bar across more than couple of strings, you'll need a flat bridge instead. I had one made for me and it worked fine. I eventually sold the guitar, I just didn't bond with it, but they are fine, fine instruments.

I filed my LP JR bridge flat and re-cut the slots.

Steinar Gregertsen wrote:No, not on mine, they still sit as they should.

Can't really see how that could happen on a lap steel, since all the tension is directed forward with no upward tension.

I hope I can load these pics...anyway, the post(s) is pulled/angled back just a bit - enough to expose the serrated surface of the post. It may be difficult to distinguish 'post' from 'reflected post'. The tuning and tone are fine. Interesting though...

Hm.. I see what you mean. So this is something that has developed over time, they weren't like this when you got it? Is it possible to move the posts when there's no strings on?

...last string change is when I first noticed this. It really is a minimal amount, but I thought it was odd. Anyway, everything remains seemingly solid. Could be a combination of drill angle and fitment with a bit of quality control thrown in for good measure.

I'd send that photo to Asher and see what he has to say. Maybe it's harmless, maybe not....

That is not uncommon for a Gibson style bridge / tail piece. While mahogany is called a hardwood, and can vary from piece to piece, it is not that hard of wood really.
There is a lot of force pulling on the bridge and the tension can compress the wood at the leading edge causing the bridge to lean forward.
Its an example of simple fulcrum / lever physics in action.

Tom Pettingill wrote:While mahogany is called a hardwood, and can vary from piece to piece, it is not that hard of wood really.
There is a lot of force pulling on the bridge and the tension can compress the wood...

...yep. I was just glad to find it wasn't loose, and ready to go flying.

Hi Stephen, just got word of the thread about the bridge. Like Tom mentioned this is common on wrap around bridge set ups, and it will not effect much but is still worth fixing. I have been a repair tech as well for 27 years and have fixed many Les Paul Jrs with this issue. What we do hear in the shop is remove both studs with a stud puller from Stew Mac supply. Then we carefully saturate the inside walls of the stud holes with Super Glue. The red label Super Glue is very thin so it will absorb into the wood and make it much stronger . We let it cure for 24 hours you do not want to glue the studs in! I also rub some bees wax on the studs surface so they go in smoothly, then press the studs back in using a drill press and hard wood dowel or you can use a dead blow hammer with the stud threaded in so when the stud is flush the hammer is not going to hit the top o the guitar. Also make sure the ground wire is still in place when you put the treble side stud back in. Your bridge will be set solid and secure. We have opted to take the time and do this to all Asher Jr models now as part of our set up before they ship. Thanks for playing one of my guitars Stephen hope this helps!

Bill Asher wrote:Thanks for playing one of my guitars Stephen hope this helps!

...no, no...thank you!! ...that's very helpful.