The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi all, I thought I posted this question last night, but I didn't see it today, so I apologize if this is redundant. I was wondering how one goes about polishing the aluminum on a pedal steel when it is directly adjacent to mica (or lacquer) without damaging the sheen on the mica. Also, how do you do the reverse? thanks -BC

Mask (tape off) the area you don't want to be affected with a smooth plastic tape (not paper masking tape). Should any adhesive remain after you've removed the tape, clean that off with some naptha (lighter fluid).

I always use Mothers Alum polish and although it gets on the Mica (no more than I have too to get the Alum done) and have never had a problem affecting the finish of the mica.

The greatest polishing and deoxidizer I have ever found is called California Custom "The Original Purple Metal Polish" and "Aluminum Deoxidizer". This can be found at most truck stops and/or parts stores.Their web site is www.californiacustom.com

For many - many years I'ved used Solvol Autosol which can be bought in any motorcycle dealers or lots of other places like Home Hardware etc.
It comes in a tube similar to a toothpaste tube and even looks like a white toothpaste. It's also good for bringing chrome plated parts back to life.
I used to sell it when owning a parts supply business.

All Z.B.est.

Bob Mainwaring

I like to use blue painter's tape. It's a masking tape designed to have a mild adhesive to it so it's easy to remove.

One thing about polishing aluminum - if the aluminum is corroded to the point where it has small, crusty bumps on it, DON'T polish it. Those "bumps" are as deep into the metal as they are rough on top. The metal has "pitted" - it's the last stage of something called "white rust". If you use an anti-corrosion material specifically for aluminum (the steel ones do not work) you will end up with just as bad a surface - except the "bumps" will now be "divots".

When you see just a hazy white swirl on the surface you can still polish it out, but if it's pitted you are stuck with leaving it alone or doing some extensive work.

Either 1) lightly clean it and live with it, 2) use an aggressive aluminum corrosion remover (followed by filling the pits with thinned-down bondo) and paint it, 3) send it out to a blasting shop and have a light, even texture (like 200 grit sandpaper) created or 4) replace it.

Along with what brother Jim Sliff mentioned, you need to be careful with old guitars, and many of those parts are cast alloys. It's not too hard to "find all the pitting" associated with castings. You can polish out one small blemish, and when you are about to quit, 8 more begin to become visible. That's a bad feeling.

I bought Blue Magic metal polishing cream at Schucks auto supply,it seems to work great...does anyone else use this?Stu

I use Mothers also. It does work great. When I was a Deputy Sheriff, and I would clean my service revolver which was stainless. I would use it to clean the outer surfaces of my weapon (i.e. cylinder and the outer frame) not to mention my badge.
Tommy

When I polish the aluminum of my guitar, I've always used Happich Semi-Chrome Polish (which I buy from Harley Davidson shops ... it's the only place I've ever found it).

I've always been lucky with Happich as it makes my aluminum look completely like new and, on those occasions when I've accidentally gotten it on my mica or lacquer finishes, it did not damage or affect the surface (when gently wiped off).

For cleaning my mica or lacquer finishes, what has really worked well for me is to take a warm damp cloth that I moistened with warm purified water (I never use tap) and rub the finish with it (small areas at a time) and immediately dry it fully with a soft scratch proof cloth. I use the same method for cleaning my fret boards.

This has always worked well for me to leave my guitar looking new, clean and without any cleaner residue on the finish.

Brasso!

Sham Wow!

One other note - NEVER use Windex or any other ammonia-containing material to clean aluminum. Ammonia attacks aluminum and the nasty stuff stays in the metal long after you wipe off the visible liquid!!

I totally agree with Jim Sliff 100% regarding Windex or any other ammonia containing sprays or chemicals. Years ago I saw first-hand what Windex did to another player's guitar. It was sad for sure.

Back in 1976, shortly after I first started playing, I'd go out to the VFW club at Altus OK to sit in with their house band where a steel player friend of mine, Calvin Gipson, was playing. He had a beautiful Sho-Bud guitar and I really admired it.

One evening I went to play with the band and when I saw Calvin's Sho-Bud, I nearly fainted ... almost totally gone was his fret board and the lacquer finish on his guitar was dulled and milky looking.

When I asked Calvin what happened, he explained that his kids (or grand kids) wanted to surprise him by cleaning his steel, so they did ... with Windex ...

Somehow, the Windex nearly totally erased his fret boards and it destroyed his lacquer finish. It was hard for me to believe that a mere glass cleaner could do that, but Calvin swore that's what the kids had used.

After seeing what happened to Calvin's guitar, I have never used anything like that on any part of my guitars.

Jim Sliff wrote:One other note - NEVER use Windex or any other ammonia-containing material to clean aluminum. Ammonia attacks aluminum and the nasty stuff stays in the metal long after you wipe off the visible liquid!!

I agree brother.

Anyone try plain old toothpaste? It works great on wedding rings.(if you still have one... )