Carter Starter Upgrades?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
- JD Mahaffey
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 4 Jun 2008 7:15 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Carter Starter Upgrades?
Hello all,
I own an older Carter Starter and have a few questions about possibly upgrading this thing.
1. At this point in my fledgling PSG career I rarely use my rkl and rkr. I am also obsessed with the franklin change. is there anyway I could mod either one of those knee levers to have the franklin change? As I understood it the changer is 'set' in some way.... I dont quite understand the workings of the underside although I am trying to learn.
2. How difficult is it to change out the pickup on a starter? also any suggestions on what kind of pup i should change to? any for sale?
im sure the answer is 'buy a new steel, dude' but i figured I'd ask to see if there is anything I can do in the meantime while I'm saving for that new guitar.
Thanks
JD
I own an older Carter Starter and have a few questions about possibly upgrading this thing.
1. At this point in my fledgling PSG career I rarely use my rkl and rkr. I am also obsessed with the franklin change. is there anyway I could mod either one of those knee levers to have the franklin change? As I understood it the changer is 'set' in some way.... I dont quite understand the workings of the underside although I am trying to learn.
2. How difficult is it to change out the pickup on a starter? also any suggestions on what kind of pup i should change to? any for sale?
im sure the answer is 'buy a new steel, dude' but i figured I'd ask to see if there is anything I can do in the meantime while I'm saving for that new guitar.
Thanks
JD
'73 Sho-Bud Pro 1 5x5
- Calvin Walley
- Posts: 2557
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003 12:01 am
- Location: colorado city colorado, USA
JD
i'm not trying to give you a smart a$$ answer
but instead spending your time trying to reconfigure the guitar,
your time would be better spent learning to use the right knee's
i'm not trying to give you a smart a$$ answer
but instead spending your time trying to reconfigure the guitar,
your time would be better spent learning to use the right knee's
proud parent of a sailor
Mullen SD-10 /nashville 400
gotta love a Mullen!!!
Guitars that i have owned in order are :
Mullen SD-10,Simmons SD-10,Mullen SD-10,Zum stage one,Carter starter,
Sho-Bud Mavrick
Mullen SD-10 /nashville 400
gotta love a Mullen!!!
Guitars that i have owned in order are :
Mullen SD-10,Simmons SD-10,Mullen SD-10,Zum stage one,Carter starter,
Sho-Bud Mavrick
- Rick Winfield
- Posts: 941
- Joined: 22 Feb 2007 12:45 pm
- Location: Pickin' beneath the Palmettos
correct
You are correct sir:
"buy a new steel, dude"
get a used pro model, minimum 3x4
rick
"buy a new steel, dude"
get a used pro model, minimum 3x4
rick
- Michael Pierce
- Posts: 516
- Joined: 1 Feb 2005 1:01 am
- Location: Madison, CT
JD.
The problem with reconfiguring the knee levers is that you'd likely seriously compromise the resale value of the Starter. I've owned two and was able to sell each for pretty close to what I paid for them. In terms of an upgraded pick-up, my steel teacher swapped out a George L10-1 for the stock CS pickup and, in my view, it did improve the sound. If you're looking for a relatively inexpensive alternative, you might look at the Magnum SD-10 on the "Instruments for Sale" page. Looks like a nice one for a very reasonable price. http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=159344
The problem with reconfiguring the knee levers is that you'd likely seriously compromise the resale value of the Starter. I've owned two and was able to sell each for pretty close to what I paid for them. In terms of an upgraded pick-up, my steel teacher swapped out a George L10-1 for the stock CS pickup and, in my view, it did improve the sound. If you're looking for a relatively inexpensive alternative, you might look at the Magnum SD-10 on the "Instruments for Sale" page. Looks like a nice one for a very reasonable price. http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=159344
- Bob Hoffnar
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- Bryan Daste
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Well, I have gone against the rules, I guess. The 1/2 step lowering of the 5th string (RKL) is less important to me than the lowering of the 6th string since I can back off 1 fret and use LKL (raise 4 & 8)and the B pedal to get the 5th string 1/2 step lower. Therefore, I cut a slot in the plate at the changer for string 6 and 'closed up' the slot for string 5, moved the pull of 5 to pull string 6 (I flopped the pull rod around at so that it goes into the bell crank from the opposite side to better align with the string 6 hole at the changer.) I moved the spring from 5 to 6 and, voila, it is there. Also, it is all reversable should I ever sell it to anyone that wishes to have it back the way that it was.
We spend the summers at a campground in PA and I take the Carter Starter along as my campground steel and I wished to have my knee levers on it like my other guitars. My only gripe is the very LONG travel of LKR to lower 4 & 8.
We spend the summers at a campground in PA and I take the Carter Starter along as my campground steel and I wished to have my knee levers on it like my other guitars. My only gripe is the very LONG travel of LKR to lower 4 & 8.
D10 Emmons LeGrande SKH (rebuilt by Billy Knowles), D10 Emmons Push/Pull (setup by Billy Knowles) , SD10 Rittenberry
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I guess one thing that I should have said is that the change that I made was indeed rather simple in that both were lowers and involved adjacent strings. With the bell cranks welded on, etc, etc, anything more complicated is pretty impossible without major surgery. It is pretty clear that the Carter Starter was designed to prevent modification which is understandable since Carter is in the business of selling their professional models as well.
D10 Emmons LeGrande SKH (rebuilt by Billy Knowles), D10 Emmons Push/Pull (setup by Billy Knowles) , SD10 Rittenberry
- JD Mahaffey
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 4 Jun 2008 7:15 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Guess I should have phrased my question better....Calvin Walley wrote:JD
i'm not trying to give you a smart a$$ answer
but instead spending your time trying to reconfigure the guitar,
your time would be better spent learning to use the right knee's
NOT saying I'll never learn to use my right knee levers, I am in the process of that now... More of a theoretical question of IF I wanted to modify my starer is that possible....
'73 Sho-Bud Pro 1 5x5
- JD Mahaffey
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 4 Jun 2008 7:15 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Ben,
Good to know you can tweak the starters a little bit if you got the time and patience! I know that a new steel is gonna be the answer to my needs. but it's also good to know i can play around with the carters settings to some extent if i decide to keep it as a back up.
Thanks!
Good to know you can tweak the starters a little bit if you got the time and patience! I know that a new steel is gonna be the answer to my needs. but it's also good to know i can play around with the carters settings to some extent if i decide to keep it as a back up.
Thanks!
'73 Sho-Bud Pro 1 5x5
- JD Mahaffey
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 4 Jun 2008 7:15 pm
- Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Thanks for the advice bob, my playing definitely is not at the level where the carter is holding me back. hahah. I'm interested in the bar moves though, I am able to recognize the franklin change when i hear it insongs now and I love that sound! I'm gonna try and figure it out w/o mangling my carterBob Hoffnar wrote:I would not try to modify the starter or change the pickup. Practice more and your tone will improve. For the Franklin change I would just figure out how it works and learn how do it with bar moves. Save up for a better steel down the road.
Thanks!
'73 Sho-Bud Pro 1 5x5
- Mark van Allen
- Posts: 6378
- Joined: 26 Sep 1999 12:01 am
- Location: Watkinsville, Ga. USA
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There's always a way to tweak a steel if you have some mechanical ability. I've seen Sho-Bud Mavericks with 4 knees... and it is your guitar, so the choice is in having it your way, or keeping it easily re-saleable.
I'd lean toward the camp of learning everything you can with that guitar, then moving on, rather than changing much on it. I think that's really what they're made for!
One easy mod I would definitely do- one of the knees, I forget which, uses a round-head phillips screw in the cabinet as the "positive" stop. With the lateral play in the knee mechanism, if the bottom of the knee lever slips even fractionally on that screw, it will slip to the side causing too much lever travel, and further wearing the knee bracket. It's a simple fix to remove that screw and substitute a flat piece of aluminum the same thickness, held on with two smaller screws, for a solid flat bearing surface for the lever stop. Makes a big difference.
The pickups really are cheesy, I'd probably replace that and keep the original for resale time.
Otherwise, great guitars to learn on, and when you do
move on to a more pro guitar, you'll be in a position to really appreciate the tonal and mechanical upgrade.
I'd lean toward the camp of learning everything you can with that guitar, then moving on, rather than changing much on it. I think that's really what they're made for!
One easy mod I would definitely do- one of the knees, I forget which, uses a round-head phillips screw in the cabinet as the "positive" stop. With the lateral play in the knee mechanism, if the bottom of the knee lever slips even fractionally on that screw, it will slip to the side causing too much lever travel, and further wearing the knee bracket. It's a simple fix to remove that screw and substitute a flat piece of aluminum the same thickness, held on with two smaller screws, for a solid flat bearing surface for the lever stop. Makes a big difference.
The pickups really are cheesy, I'd probably replace that and keep the original for resale time.
Otherwise, great guitars to learn on, and when you do
move on to a more pro guitar, you'll be in a position to really appreciate the tonal and mechanical upgrade.
- Mark van Allen
- Posts: 6378
- Joined: 26 Sep 1999 12:01 am
- Location: Watkinsville, Ga. USA
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And on the Franklin change, I've always really liked the sound and possibilities of that change, and before putting it on a guitar I messed around with bar movement to work at it (although the moving tones of the change within chords are it's greatest beauty.)
Eventually I put it on a guitar, and while I use it very frequently, I'd still estimate it's incorporated in maybe only 5% of my playing, if that...
Eventually I put it on a guitar, and while I use it very frequently, I'd still estimate it's incorporated in maybe only 5% of my playing, if that...
- Greg Wisecup
- Posts: 1361
- Joined: 22 Oct 2007 6:55 am
- Location: Troy, Ohio
Is this tone bad considering the price of the guitar?
I don't think so.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qa849ZUO9jA
I don't think so.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qa849ZUO9jA
Derby SD-10 4&5 Black!(duh)/
Derby D-10/Steelers Choice/
Goodrich 120/ 2- Katana Boss 100's
/Nashville 400
RV-3/ Zoom MS-50G
As long as I'm down in the mix I'm Fantastic!
Derby D-10/Steelers Choice/
Goodrich 120/ 2- Katana Boss 100's
/Nashville 400
RV-3/ Zoom MS-50G
As long as I'm down in the mix I'm Fantastic!
- Jim Peters
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Jim - I solved that problem by inserting nylon "pads" into the "flipper" where they contact the "flipper" for the cross-shafts. It knocked out 90% of the friction and the awful "grating" of soft metal against soft metal. The problem is, that most guys/gals don't have a milling machine at their disposal.
As for the KL stop screw, it can be replaced with a flathead screw instead of the round head. The flat plate suggested is actually the best alternative.
The George L's 10-1 will most definitely "fatten" the sound of the guitar and IMO is a good choice...brings out the lower end a lot better.
The welded-on/brazed-on cranks can be bent to better align them with their pulls on the changer end. Sometimes you can actually switch shafts within the guitar to your advantage, say, moving the E-changes to the right knee instead of the left. Bending the cranks for better alignment only changes their pull ratios slightly and the benefits outweigh the negatives even though it will look a bit crude.
When slotting out the "restrictor plate" on the right end, use care in cutting the slot/slots so that they aren't cut crooked or oversize. If done properly, the guitar will function well without side-binding in those slots.
PRR
As for the KL stop screw, it can be replaced with a flathead screw instead of the round head. The flat plate suggested is actually the best alternative.
The George L's 10-1 will most definitely "fatten" the sound of the guitar and IMO is a good choice...brings out the lower end a lot better.
The welded-on/brazed-on cranks can be bent to better align them with their pulls on the changer end. Sometimes you can actually switch shafts within the guitar to your advantage, say, moving the E-changes to the right knee instead of the left. Bending the cranks for better alignment only changes their pull ratios slightly and the benefits outweigh the negatives even though it will look a bit crude.
When slotting out the "restrictor plate" on the right end, use care in cutting the slot/slots so that they aren't cut crooked or oversize. If done properly, the guitar will function well without side-binding in those slots.
PRR
- Kyler Burke
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 11 Oct 2019 7:14 pm
- Location: Boise Idaho, USA
Arm rest / wrist pad / loafer pad for Carter Starter
Today I built a arm rest for my Carter Starter. It's 4" deep and made with chestnut brown "tooled leather" vinyl or faux leather. It only takes two small drilled holes into the end plates to mount, which already have holes drilled for mounting the plates to the cabinet. If anybody is interested I have the material for another and may also be making some in black. Sold colors available too.
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Newbie! Justice S-10 Jr. 3x4
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Hilton Volume Pedal
Positive Grid Spark
Modded VHT Special 6 Combo
Line 6 POD HD500X for Echoes & Stuff
1980s Fender Deluxe 85 112 Combo
Fender Nashville Telecaster
Gibson LP Studio
Instagram: @thefellermusic
- Charlie McDonald
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Because this thread had been resurrected, I'll resurrect this link to what the Carter Starter sounds like in the hands of a really great player! (Terry Crisp)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT1TvjnlYHM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT1TvjnlYHM
- Greg Milton
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Nice one, Donny!Donny Hinson wrote:Because this thread had been resurrected, I'll resurrect this link to what the Carter Starter sounds like in the hands of a really great player! (Terry Crisp)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gT1TvjnlYHM
- Kyler Burke
- Posts: 17
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aluminum rails on Carter Starter
This is a minor visual enhancement but I bought aluminum Corning moulding at Home Depot (1/2" x 1/2" x 96") and cut it to fit the two upper corners of the cabinet. I think it looks better this way than with the butted-up edges of mica laminate tops and it's more durable too. Cost about $10.
Newbie! Justice S-10 Jr. 3x4
Hilton Volume Pedal
Positive Grid Spark
Modded VHT Special 6 Combo
Line 6 POD HD500X for Echoes & Stuff
1980s Fender Deluxe 85 112 Combo
Fender Nashville Telecaster
Gibson LP Studio
Instagram: @thefellermusic
Hilton Volume Pedal
Positive Grid Spark
Modded VHT Special 6 Combo
Line 6 POD HD500X for Echoes & Stuff
1980s Fender Deluxe 85 112 Combo
Fender Nashville Telecaster
Gibson LP Studio
Instagram: @thefellermusic