The Steel Guitar Forum

Hello guys... This is my first time in the forum. I'm Michelle from northern NY state. I don't play, but my husband does a little... I'll give you a little history about us and get to my questions... Bear with me I really don't have a true steel player's vocabulary!

My husband bought a Fender 1000 this summer- It was really messed up, but I got it straightened out and he plays it all time now. He bought a Fender 400 thinking it would be nicer to travel with... Leading to my first question- I can't get it to stop breaking the first string on the treble side. I am using .011 guage string, tuned to G#, bending up to an A. What do I do to fix it?

NEXT DILEMMA:
My cousin has a steel he brought to me to get fixed up. I beleive I have identified it as a Show Bud Baldwin Crossover. It was in terrible shape. I got everything put back together and bent back into shape, put some strings on, tuned them up, began tuning my bends in. On the strings that I was actully able to get to respond to the screwdriver, I was unable to get a true note. Though you depress the pedal to the stop, it seems that if you put more pressure on, it still goes sharper. I think it is because the whole undercarriage is aluminum. ??? Is it possible/realistic to get a better undercarriage to install?? Or should he just junk it and buy a brand new steel? If I can get my 400 to stop popping strings, I think he would really enjoy it.

Thanks for reading all the way through! Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Michelle

Michelle,

I don't know much about Fender pedal steels, but I may be able to assist you with the Sho-Bud crossover. Have you got any pics?

Cheers,
Benton

First off, welcome to the forum. Where do the strings break? by the changer bridge, or by the prg head or nut there? If you don't find any sharp burrs, make sure you wind the string on the peg more than about 6 turns. Next, I don't believe there is rollers on the nut and bridge, and place a wee bit of grease, or vaseline on the string where it rubs on the nut, and bridge. I had a 400, for only a few months, many years ago, and had some strings break too, but don't remember much about it. You also might have a bad run on the strings. On the pedals that go sharp with more pressure added to it, look, and make sure everything is tight on the stops. It might have a loose screw, nut, or the bracket might be fractured somewhere. Also the lever, and bracket the pedal rod attaches to. I am not a expert, but have worked on them. Good luck with that 400.

Michelle,

Welcome to "the Fender Club"! Some of the early Fender PSG's had poorly designed bridges that were pretty hard on strings. I have a Fender 1000 too, which I LOVE BTW!!! Mine has what people call the "hog rings" at the bridge to rectify that particular string breakage issue. A picture would help clarify whether or not this is an issue with your 400.

As Ronnie said, where the strings are breaking can usually offer clues to the problem, as can "when" they are breaking. Do they always break when the instrument is in use, while the changers are being activated? Sometimes strings will break when the instrument is in the case.

+1 on the bad batch of strings too. It happens from time to time.

Sorry I cannot offer any insight on the Sho-Bud. Good luck with all of 'em!

Joe

Wow! Thanks for the quick responses...

Benton, I will get some pics of the crossover on here tomorrow sometime. I will take all the help I can get with this thing right now...

Ronnie and Joe, I don't think it's the strings, as I buy them in bulk and I use the same ones on the 1000 which NEVER breaks a string. The string is breaking where it goes over the bridge, while being played. I believe that what it has on it now are "hog rings." I will get a pic posted sometime tomorrow for you guys to verify. I did notice that the hog ring for that particular string is bent tighter than the others... could that be the problem? Also, worthy of noting is that the first two pedals are a little stiff. Could that be an issue? I have adjusted them to be more comfortable, but then I can't seem to get the strings to bend...

Michelle,

If the strings are always breaking at the bridge saddle, then the saddle itself would be the most obvious culprit. Compare it to the others, and look for sharp edges, "burrs" or excessive wear on the saddle itself.

If you can find no evidence of deformity in the saddle, it could be a coincidence that the strings are breaking there, and the trouble lies elsewhere. I would not suspect the hog ring though...but I could be wrong.

Many fiddle players put a little plastic dampening sleeve on their high "E" strings where it makes contact with the bridge. This not only "tames" the string down a little, but it also reduces friction on the string at that contact point. Do you know any fiddlers, or have a violin shop nearby? This or something similar like shrink tubing might be worth a try.

I'll check out the pictures when you post them to see if they offer any other clues or ideas...if nothing else, it will be cool to see another Fender steel!

As before, good luck!

Joe

This advice will help lessen your Fender 400 String Breakage :
http://www.steelguitarcanada.com/repairs.htm

Thanks Joey!

That's a good link. Michelle, those are the hog rings alright! I believe you used to fish the string through the hole where the hog ring goes. Not good at all!

That modification, or something similar to lessen that kink in the string should work wonders. Prolly a lot better than the fiddle string dampener I recommended!

I hope this helps you.

Joe