Page 1 of 2

Want to see my completed 10 string lap / console steel?

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 9:04 am
by Greg Gefell
This steel was built by my father and I last spring, but I just got around to taking it into work for a proper photo shoot.

The milled keyhead (no CNC) was the toughest part. I could've bought one I suppose, but I really wanted to put the Fender locking tuners in. They wouldn't fit in anything prefab.

There's also a pickup blend knob for infinite tone variations between the two pickups. The 50/50 position gives it an ES-335 like chime and woodiness. I made the nut and bridge saddles easily removeable if I ever want to change the number of strings or the string spacing. The fretboard was purchased from Tom Bradshaw.

The hollow brass rod inserts were from an experiment I tried with a bender system. I have since decided I like playing it without pedals better, so I removed all of that extra hardware.


Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 9:42 am
by Joseph De Feo
Nice job Greg. That blend pot is a nice touch for in-between tones. Did you use any caps to tune your pickups, or is it just the pickups to the pot?

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 10:26 am
by Greg Gefell
Thanks Joseph. They are straight up right to the knob and then the output jack. What values of caps would/could you use, and how would they affect the tone?

All in all, a winner!

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 10:41 am
by Ron Whitfield
While not a fan of the basic 'plank' body styles, this one has a lot going for it in the asthetics dept.
Plus, it's black! So you know it sounds good.
The machined parts look terrific, clean and substantial. How did you affix them to the body w/out obvious securements?
I also like the fact that you went with the parallel strings set up.
Did you ever consider a stud/wrap around bridge tailpiece?
I've always preffered strings thru the body, but would think wraps would be just as good for tone, if the bridge is planted well.

What's next?

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 10:58 am
by Greg Gefell
Thanks Ron. If I build another guitar it will have a softer/rounder shape. For the first time out though the plank style was definitely easier to produce.

The keyhead is countersunk half way into the body and then tapped. Four screws secure it to the body.
Same goes for the nut, bridge and tailpiece, all are countersunk, tapped, and screwed in.

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 11:01 am
by Greg Gefell
Oh yeah...
What's next?
I'll post some pictures of the McKenna 10 string electric resonator I just finished tweaking.

beeeeeeaaauuuuuutttiiiiiiiiiifffuuuuuuuuulllllllllllllllllll

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 12:23 pm
by Carroll Hale
beautiful job...young man....
curious about the string spacing and the scale length....if building these aint your first job...it oughta be... :D :D :D show some more of your work...from deep in the heart of east tex...
ch

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 1:19 pm
by Larry Phleger
Great job Greg. What tuning are you using on it. I recently built a single neck 10 string non pedal. I hope to build a double 10 when I get the time and $.

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 1:22 pm
by Greg Gefell
Thanks Carroll.

Its a 24" scale. The string spacing is 11/32"

I wanted to make it a full 3/8" but the outer two strings were getting weak from the string spread being wider than the pickups. :\


Someone is bound to ask, "How's it sound?" So here's a little diddy I recorded with this guitar.

All bridge pickup up this one.



http://www.filedropper.com/drunk128k



*

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 4:18 pm
by Bryan Bradfield
In the machine head area are what appear to be 6 brass ferrules.
Behind the bridge are 5 more of these items.
What are these, and what is their purpose?

Posted: 13 Nov 2008 5:06 pm
by Dean Gray
Nice work Greg, it looks great!

Thanks for sharing.

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 1:06 am
by CrowBear Schmitt
Nice One Greg :D

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 2:06 am
by basilh
Bryan Bradfield wrote:In the machine head area are what appear to be 6 brass ferrules.
Behind the bridge are 5 more of these items.
What are these, and what is their purpose?
That's covered in the first post, he said "The hollow brass rod inserts were from an experiment I tried with a bender system. I have since decided I like playing it without pedals better, so I removed all of that extra hardware"

'bout the clip

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 5:10 am
by Bill Fulbright
Love the intro!!!

Love the ride!!

You play that thing like you like it.

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 6:17 am
by Greg Gefell
Thanks for all the positive comments guys!

The brass ferrules up by the keyhead used to have rods going through them that could pull on the string. (like a behind the nut bend with your finger)

The rear ones worked in reverse creating a lower.

Sometimes you have to go down a path to realize it ain't for you. :\

Larry asked about the tuning. It is standard E9.

That song I posted is a direct result of noodling around and figuring out how to play in E9 without the pedals available. It was fun to stretch out the brain from the usual pedal habits I have formed. I learned some grips and slants that I never even considered when playing on pedal steel.

This guitar was conceived and built to be an easy way to practice without having to go downstairs and sit at the pedal steel. Its nice because I can often get spurts of practice in without being away from the family. When someone needs my attention I just lean it in the corner and resume when I have a chance. With 2 young children you have to create practice time however you can.

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 7:21 am
by Bill Creller
Very nice work Greg :D

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 7:37 am
by Bill Leff
Looks great, sounds great, less filling! :)

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 9:45 am
by Brad Bechtel
Nice job, Greg. I see you chose the best sounding color, too! :)

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 11:05 am
by Tom Pettingill
Nice job Greg :)

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 6:26 pm
by John Bechtel
Greg; You said you used an 11/32” spacing, because you were running out of P/U, but; you would have preferred a full 3/8” spacing. I assume the next time you will consider using Geo.L. 12–1 P/U's. Just a thought, but; that's what I would have used! It l©©ks like a very nice piece of work! Congratulations on you accomplishment!

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 6:39 pm
by Craig Stenseth
It looks dark blue (?) in a few of those pictures, I like the playing card motif for the fret markers.

Posted: 14 Nov 2008 6:50 pm
by Alan Brookes
Craig Stenseth wrote:...I like the playing card motif for the fret markers.
They're standard on Sho-Bud fingerboards. :roll:

Posted: 15 Nov 2008 6:19 am
by Greg Gefell
Brad - believe it or not its actually deep deep red. :o It's clear coat mixed with a deep burgandy stain. 10 coats, and buffed to a shine.

If you look carefully you can see the reddish color of the raised fretboard. That's 3 coats. When you keep piling it on it turns almost black. 8)

Its a process the drummer in my band uses when he finishes his drums shells. I liked the look and said, "make it so." http://www.nelsondrumcraft.com/

John B, - woulda, coulda, shoulda, eh?

Craig - the blue you're seeing is a reflection of a chroma key blue wall I have at my work video/photo studio. Unintended side effect, but I liked the way it looked.

Posted: 9 Dec 2008 12:37 pm
by John Sims
Greg Gefell wrote:Thanks Joseph. They are straight up right to the knob and then the output jack. What values of caps would/could you use, and how would they affect the tone?
That depends on the value of the pots and the capacitance used. It's a simple R/C network. Most average 6 string guitars with a 500K pot use a .05uf to the best of my recollection or a 250K pot with a .1uf capacitor.

Possible 10-string E9-version

Posted: 9 Dec 2008 1:10 pm
by John Bechtel
Greg; If you want to use the E9 tuning on a non-pedal tuning and would like to eliminate the odd-ball strings on #1 & #2, you could try the tuning I use on one of my 10-str. necks! Lo-to-Hi
E~B~D~E~F#~G#~B~C#~E~G# = E9/13 Very playable!