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Topic: First Mandolin with a giant nut - how to correct? |
Craig Hawks
From:
North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2008 6:51 pm |
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I bought and very inexpensive ($40 - new) Mandolin. The action at the 1st fret is unplayable. From fret 2-5 it's tough. After that it's quite playable. I have an idea to remove the nut and shave the bottom (not the string side). 1st, does this make sense? If so, how does one remove the nut? Tap it out while breaking the glue or saw/cut it out. Once out, I was thinking about sanding the bottom until I've removed enough material (about 1/8" - 1/4". Does that make sense or is there a quicker way to do this?
Thanks in advance!
Craig Hawks
_________________
JCFSC member since 2005
'56 Fender Stringmaster D-8, '52 Fender Deluxe-8, Late 40's Oahu 6 |
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Michael Johnstone
From:
Sylmar,Ca. USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2008 7:52 pm
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| Yeah - all that. |
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Rick Campbell
From:
Sneedville, TN, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2008 8:35 pm
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Craig,
If the mandolin nut is not too tight, a tap with a hammer and something like a block of wood, so you are hitting all the way across might loosen it. You can also try laying a warm moist rag over it to loosen it up.
Another, and maybe easier way, it to get a set of nut files, or some small hobby files, and lower each string individually until you get them where you want, then take a large file and remove the left over from the slots until the string just sets in the grove. finish up with some sandpaper to make it look nice. Put some pencil lead in the groves to lubricate them when you put the strings back on. It will be easier to tune.
Good luck!!!! |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 30 Sep 2008 2:28 am Re: First Mandolin with a giant nut - how to correct?
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| Craig Hawks wrote: |
I bought and very inexpensive ($40 - new) Mandolin. The action at the 1st fret is unplayable. From fret 2-5 it's tough. After that it's quite playable. I have an idea to remove the nut and shave the bottom (not the string side). 1st, does this make sense? If so, how does one remove the nut? Tap it out while breaking the glue or saw/cut it out. Once out, I was thinking about sanding the bottom until I've removed enough material (about 1/8" - 1/4". Does that make sense or is there a quicker way to do this?
Thanks in advance!
Craig Hawks |
1/4"?!?!?
Is it really that high??!??
You don't want to break that nut taking it off. I use a heat lamp. Cover the headstock and put something like some flat pieces of cardboard covered with tin foil on the fretboard to reflect heat off the board and leave about 1/8" of wood exposed right at the nut. Heat the nut and then take a razor blade and cut along the lacquer lines so the finish will break away nice and clean, then take a small piece of wood and lay it on the fretboard and tap it with a small hammer against the nut. Tap BOTH ways, on the fret side and on the headstock side. Nut will loosen and then take a set of endcutters and pull the nut up very gently out of the slot. |
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Craig Hawks
From:
North Ridgeville, Ohio, USA
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 1:59 pm
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Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'll give it a try this weekend.
Someone asked if it's really a 1/4". How about this...I can push a penny under the strings, at the nut, with the 1st fret under the penny, and still not touch the strings. Huge gap!
But, it's fine at the 10th fret. So, if I can shave this bad boy down, I think it'll be a fine mando for learning. And, how could I beat the $40.00 price? |
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 3:12 pm
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| did any one ask if the neck is straight? |
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Larry Jamieson
From:
Walton, NY USA
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Posted 1 Oct 2008 6:52 pm
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Craig,
Two questions... Does the neck have a truss rod which can be adjusted? Is the bridge adjustable for height?
If you lower the nut, the strings height which is now OK at the 10th fret, may become too low at the 10th fret. If the bridge can be raised, it may need to be after you lower the nut.
Somebody else asked if the neck was straight. You can look down the neck and see if there is a bend, or hump anywhere. There needs to be a little "relief" or bend upward at the nut end. If a truss rod is too tight, the strings will buzz against the frets in the middle of the neck. If it is too loose, the action will be too high at the middle and bridge end of the neck.
If there is no truss rod adjustment, you will have to do what you can by lowering the nut, and possibly raising the bridge. Good luck with it.
Larry J. |
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Dean Dobbins
From:
Rome, Ilinois, U.S.A. * R.I.P.
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Posted 6 Oct 2008 11:21 am
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Trade it in on a $50.00 Mandolin, with a lower nut!
_________________
Dino |
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