The Steel Guitar Forum

I'm a relatively new resonator guitar player wiht a Regal Black Lightning. My higher G string (3rd) lasts only 1/2 as long as the others. Is this just because I use it a bit more than the others for leads? I bought some Pearse strings that claimed to have a "special" G string that was supposed to last longer than standard strings. It didn't. Is it just me or do others have the same problem?

thanks

Mark

As the smallest wound string, the third tends to wear out more quickly for a lot of folks. I haven't noticed it myself, but my teacher tends to use the first two strings a lot where some people probably would use the third.

I think the Pearse strings are excellent, but my reso was set up for a .056 sixth string, and the .059 in the Pearse set was getting pinched. The GHS 1650 set is generating a lot of positive comments lately, so you might want to give those a try.

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Lynn Oliver

Most dobro string sets have a .026 for the third, same as medium acoustic guitar sets. What happens, is, the small winding comes loose from the small core wire, making it rattle and die. Try a .027 string, it'll last a lot longer.
Learned this tip from Ivan Guernsey.

Try a .022 or.024 plain string for your G string. Billy

According to his web site, Jerry Douglas uses a .028 for his 3rd string.

Well, Billy, I don't want to get into an argument on the gentlest part of the Forum, but a .022 or.024 third would rattle before it was tuned up---At least on my guitar.

The "alternative" dobro string sets often have a .028 or .029 for the third string, I'm of the opinion that at least .028 is the ticket.

I like D'Addario J-42's, but the .026 third string doesn't cut it for very long.

I have been using a custom GHS set quite a bit which is sold by luthier Brad Harper of North Carolina on his website:
http://tinyurl.com/y6qhqk

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Mark
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Mark Eaton on 17 October 2006 at 09:21 AM.]</p></FONT>

My theory with stock 3rd strings is that I would hit them harder than the other strings, leading to the 3rd's dying or breaking or losing windings before any of the other strings. I experimented with plain 0.020's, 0.022's, 0.024's, and 0.026's. I settled on 0.026's and began replacing the wimpy wound 3rd's with plain 0.026 strings about 10 years ago.

Thanks for the all input

I have as a matter of course, bought extra strings to replace the naughty G's and have been using 0.028's but they are wound. I 'll try plain 28's and see how that works. Part of the problem is that I tend to play all my instruments hard and tend to break more strings than the average joe but this is an issue of strings going dead not breaking. BTW, I have looked for broken winding and seen none, so I don't think that is the source of the dead-ness Mark

The cause of the deadness may be the very small diameter of the winding on a .026 being flattened, which happens faster with phosphor bronze or bronze than with nickel or steel. If you play especially hard, you may be using more bar pressure as well as picking force, which would worsen the problem. Using an unwound string may be the answer - Josh Graves was known for using a plain .026 and got a great sound with it.

The third string is my work horse and I've always figured that was the reason it went dead but it dosen't really matter spare third strings is the best solution. However I've started using wound .028's and like them better myself. Try the "Garry Morse" Jagwire strings they have heavier high strings. I think they're tops.

I use Elixars and I keep extra 28 wound because of the same problem. I called Tim Sheerhorn a fews years back and told him what was happening and he ask if I played hard and picked the string at an angle and yes to both ?'s. He told me I was cutting the winding and that's causing the problem. The wound bronze string works fine with the elixars.

Tony

I played the Elixiers on my guitars for several years because I hate changing strings (I play a 6 string Martin, a Rickenbacker 12, a mandolin, a lap steel, a couple of Tels's...). Too many instruments, only one instrument tech (me!) I always thought the advantage of the coated strings was the lack of oxidation. After changing strings I noticed the indentations on the fret-point-of-contacts and assumed that's why they eventually went "off." It was only when recording a CD last year that I really heard the difference in sound compared with "normal" bronze strings. (Of course "live" via a pickup and with house noise, maybe its not worth the extra effort to change strings more frequently.) I'm back to the non-coated strings for nowbut maybe I'll give it a try on the dobro (oops sorry, Gibson, I meant "resophonic square-neck guitar".

Do you find the Elixiers get fuzzy, especially the 3rd string?

Mark

well, heeres a different opinion.

I like .022 solid G and I have a short scale, if it rattles , its because your nut/bridge slots are too big for it. I USE those and 24 or 26 wounds sometimes, but they go dead fast as windings seem weaker than big strings, I use the .022 for G# in open E. my highe E is .013, low E is .052.

a longer scale it will work better, I guess a lot of you reso guys use harley spokes but not me.

<sigh> Tell me about it! I played two bluegrass gigs this weekend and my 3rd string didn't make it halfway through before it started buzzing.

The best solution I've come up with is finding a good music store that sells single 26s for cheap (here in Vancouver, NJAMS is pretty good for that), buy em by the dozen and get good and fast at changing strings.

Chuck makes a really good point about the slots in the saddle. I'm quite sure Dobro saddles wear out faster than regular guitar saddles because they're made of wood which is softer than bone. I've had my dobro saddle replaced once and it helped string longjevity. Come to think of it, it may be time I got a new saddle.

-Tim

I made a new bridge and it has really improved string life(!?!?) I made slots that are really shallow and that sems to help. I'm not sure why but it has. (yes I do carry a few extra 0.026's just in case, er, in my case, and I do use them but maybe not so many will be needed, now)

thanks for all the input

Mark

I like Paul Beard's strings, he's got some trick he uses to make the 3rd string last longer, and I'll be danged if it doesn't. I think his strings sound the best of the brands I have tried, cetainly brighter and more alive sounding than D'Addario and John Pearse. You mileage may vary. But I would recommend Beard strings, they do a good deal if you buy 10 packs also.

I am a big fan of things Paul Beard in general, I have a vintage cherry model that I have used on many recordings and shows, it always cuts right through.