The Steel Guitar Forum

Whats the best products to use for cleaning the....
1/ The alloy neck
2/ The chrome

on my steel?

Thanks

David Hartley

I would like to see the response here as well.

HI DAVID
For aluminium i use what used to be called SOLVOL AUTOSOL but is now called AUTOSOL its realy good stuff it does both chrome and aly .
regards vic .
PS NOT SURE IF IT CAN BE BOUGHT IN THE SHOPS I GOT MINE ON THE NET FROM A METAL POLISHING COMPANY .

Mothers products available at any auto parts store.

Here in the USA it's 'Mothers' or 'Nevr-Dull', but this is the equivalent to Duraglit' in the UK. This is for the aluminium (or 'aluminum' for those who can't spell ). It is very-slightly abrasive but cleans very effectively.

I'm not sure about the mica, though. Not wanting to do any damage by using the wrong product, I usually wipe my Emmons with a slightly damp cloth and leave it at that.

'Nevr-Dull' was the cleaner that Jimmie Crawford always swore by. I've had a tin of it here for years.

My buddy Jim Walker says.... DONT USE A CLOTH. It will cause swirl marks in the finish. EVEN a BABY DIAPER..
Jim says USE TOILET PAPER !!!!

I gotta try that and see if it will help take out the swirl marks cause I already didnt use toliet paper.

I've used Happich Semi-chrome polish for years on the mirror finish areas when it gets dull. Slightly abrasive though and will probably leave some light swirl marks. To protect highly polished components in good condition where high lustre is already present, I use automotive polish that is clear coat safe.

JIC everyone doesn't know, on jeweled or textured surfaces like the top of a metal neck and some pedal bars, you wouldn't want to use any of the paste cleaner/polishers as they will leave ugly residue in the cavities and erode the textured feature.
Best to use acetone, available where automotive paint supplies are sold and perhaps other paint store.

Acetone's a great cleaner, but it will dissolve certain plastics, and well as break down some inks used for silkscreening (as on some fretboards). It will also attack acrylic decals and adhesives with a vengeance. BE VERY CAREFUL USING IT ON YOUR INSTRUMENT!

Naptha is a much safer cleaner, but even it will soften some acrylics when used slavishly.

Swirl marks are caused by improper technique and using a polish with too coarse an abrasive. Use an extra-fine polishing compound to remove swirl marks, and choose one made specifically for that purpose for the best results. I use a "Kit" product called "Scratch Out". It's specially formulated to remove swirls and fine scratches. A microfiber polishing cloth works best, but a soft 100% cotton rag works well, too.

I don't recommend using any kind of paper products, as most are made of recycled products and you never know what grit they might contain.

Jim where R U Buddy.. Get In Here !!

Donny is correct. Must be applied only to the alum. surfaces and nothing else!

Acetone is what some luthiers use when repairing bindings on a std. guitar to fuse the pieces together. I omitted that fact, I guess, figuring that there wouldn't be plastic components on a steel guitar. My bad for not adding this caution

I apply a small amount with a soft cloth to remove smudges on the neck area near the pickups where fingers sometimes contact the neck from picking.

Hey Yall! Sorry Tommy, I have had a busy week.

It was none other than Houston Texas fame, Bobby Bowman who instructed me on yet another use for the greatest invention since the caveman club, often used to beat the "Poop" out of things. Toilet paper is as gentle on your axe as it is your a.. uh... rear!

Microfiber cloths are terrible for cleaning metal that you intend to keep new looking. Microfiber cloth retains every thing it touches. If you lay it on a dusty surface then try to clean your guitar you'll be cleaning it with dust and just in case you didn't know, dust is just smaller specks of sand.

As far as aluminum polish, I have found NOTHING better or easier than "PURPLE POLISH". It says right on the bottle "Caution, results may be addicting!" The stuff really is amazing!

http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_ ... olish.html

JW

Purple Polish is a good product. Mother's Swirl Remover works well.

Purple Polish also works on Chrome.

For cleaning the mica on my guitar I use a mist and wipe product by Meguiar's called Quick Detailer.

And I always use "Angel Soft" TOILET PAPER when cleaning my guitars with either of these products.

JW

="Tommy R. Butler" Jim says USE TOILET PAPER !!!!

I would caution against ever using paper to polish wood or plastic. Paper has the same abrasive index as 1000 grit sandpaper.

Well, I guess my guitar is a scratch up mess then huh? That's right, I'm just a kid that's been playing steel 2 years and I don't know what the hell I'm talking about.

Hey Tommy, how's my Rains look?

JW

Go ahead ask any of the fellas that saw me and my Rains at the Daleville steel show. Don Helms, Ken Fox, Jack Goodson, Shorty Smith and a host of others. The Mica and the metal on my guitar shines as if Gary Carpenter made it yesterday. The ONLY thing I have ever used to wipe cleaners off of this guitar is toilet PAPER!

And again, Bobby Bowman is the one that told me to use toilet paper. The Man has been playing, working on and cleaning steel guitars since before most of you were even born. I for one am not going to disagree with the man. I really don't have to. The results speak for themselves. The first new Rains I had was cleaned with Microfiber cloths and cotton t-shirt rags and it was swirled pretty bad within 3 months.

Nuff Said.

JW

I use Simi-Chrome or MAAS (the same)if there are micro scratches as it is slightly abrasive. Since both are made in Germany they are probably available in the UK. If it's just to polish the polished aluminum or the chrome plated legs I use Mother's Mag wheel polish as it is not abrasive.

I coat the entire steel with a Teflon based car polish I buy at a local Flea Market. It is labeled "Las Vegas Show Car Polish" but I suspect it's sold under various names at different flea markets. It cleans/protects the entire guitar including the fretboards and if you touch the polished aluminum (al-u-minium for our friends in the UK) it won't leave finger marks. I only need to do this about twice a year or after I apply MAAS or Mothers to the polished aluminum parts.

Well a year or so I had all the strings off my Emmons...to give it a good clean and used a spray on thing called Nifty......worked real good...took all the dirt off...a bit of the black background and faded some of the Splitting the Atom signs to match my jeans...Next time I'm at Bobbe Seymours place...
I'm gonna have to invest in a new fretboard !!!!!

Dont think I will be doing that again in a hurry !!!!!!!!

Jim, please don't personalize my comment. It's my opinion based on experience. Wish I had a buck for every pair of glasses I've ruined using toilet tissue. It wasn't until I learned about paper that I started using soft cotton.

If it works for you, that's great.

Paper making 101.

All paper, notebook, tissue, towel, toilet, is made from the same basic process. The word "paper" puts it all in the same catagory. The process includes wood fibers. Toilet paper probably is the least offensive as it would contain the least amount of wood and other additives.

http://www.idahoforests.org/paprmake.htm

Wood scratches.

I guess David H's guitar is ready for a 2,000,000 note clean up after all the fast pickin':)
Auto Zone sells a de-greasing product called "Prep-All". Its a newer version of the solution the Emmons Guitar Co. Inc. used to use(called then); "Prepsol".
I like to wipe down the whole guitar with it; wood, mica, aluminum, fretboards etc, when Im finished working on one. Prep-All usually evaporates in a few seconds, but using a soft dry cloth will easily remove the few streaks it may leave behind.
It wont remove lacquer or paint so its safe on those finishes as well. For the poished look on necks etc, I still like "Flitz" polish. Its not quite as abrasive as Simi-Chrome, but a bit grittier than Mothers. Flitz works nicely on milky-looking mica as well. David, if youd like either of these products sent to you, feel free to contact me. One can of Prep-All should last you a good while, as well as a tube or two of the Flitz polish.
MC

What Donny said concerning solvents.

Lighter fluid (naphtha) is the safest solvent and I use it for cleaning changers and other metal parts, but you want to be careful around plastics and test a small spot first. It *is* good on urethane and lacquer finishes (i.e. wood instruments) for removing sticker residue, dirt, oils and other junk.

Nail polish remover (acetone) is stronger and good for stubborn grease and caked-up oils on metal parts, but will kill most plastics used on guitars. However, for aluminum parts (without inked logos, stickers, plastic fittings etc) it'll do a great cleaning job using a soft cotton cloth. If you are finding swirl marks the cloth isn't clean, is too rough or the material used with it is gritty - I don't have swirl marks using cotton rags I buy in 50-pound bundles. No paper - too many gritty impurities, and if you've ever been in a paper manufacturing plant you'd know the products are not made using environmentally-controlled or sterile techniques. Toilet paper is only one step better than a paper towel; the only paper product I'd use would be a camera lens cleaner. ). For highly-polished aluminum any chrome cleaner is fine; for brushed aluminum I use naphtha and am simply careful around plastics...as said any polish-type product may mar brushed or textured aluminum.

Well, here's an esoteric bit from one of my past lives as a photographer. The method of cleaning is very critical for the coatings on optical lenses. Lense paper is used; but you don't just wipe the flat paper on the lense. What you are supposed to do is to create a sort of makeshift brush with the paper. You fold the paper cross-wise in many accordion pleats. Then you fold it back on itself (this is the way kids make fake carnations from Kleenex tissues). You twist the folded end to create a makeshift handle. Then you tear off the other end and ruffle it to make a little brush with the loose fibers. You put a drop of cleaning fluid on this brush and gently clean the lense with a circular motion. Finally you make another such dry brush and use it to wipe off the excess cleaning fluid and remove streaks.

Now I can't imagine that there is any need to clean or polish a steel guitar like that. You can probably use either soft paper or cloth. Sure you may be able to see some swirls up close with a light. But they should not be visible beyond a couple of feet away. If they are, you need to polish with a finer grit abrasive, followed by a polishing compound.

It's just a steel guitar. It's not the mirror on the Hubble space telescope.

I've used toilet paper for years with no swirl marks that I'm aware of.
I haven't figured out what to use on my steel guitars though.

Hey Jim,



Stuff really works til its all gone !!!