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Author Topic:  Building or assembly
Brad Malone

 

From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2008 8:36 am    
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How many Steel builders make all of their own parts, "In house"? It seems that the changers and the tuners are all made "out of house" by most builders. Some brands seem to be assembled rather than built.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2008 9:14 am    
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All of the changer mechanisms, rod pullers, cross shafts, cabinet, etc are made "in house" on a Franklin. He does use commerical legs, tuning keys, pickups and electronic hardware.

The aluminum castings are made by a casting company but he supplied the forms and does all of the machine work and finishing of the aluminum parts.
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Roger Shackelton

 

From:
MINNESOTA (deceased)
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2008 1:39 pm    
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Having parts made out of house is more efficient, but also more costly. Even so, I believe all or most builders still have a sizable backlog of orders.

Roger
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2008 5:13 pm     Build
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I machine all of my parts except the tuning keys, pickups, and legs which I can buy cheaper than I can make. Martin.
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Chris Lucker

 

From:
Los Angeles, California USA
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2008 9:37 pm    
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Martin, it looks like you even machine your cross shaft supports rather than using a simple piece of extruded 90 degree angle. That shows you have way too much fun on a Bridgeport.[/b]
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 3:45 am     Bearing Journals
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Chris, there are several reasons for that, thickness being the main one. Angle in the right thickness is hard to find in the right alloy. Most angle in 2024 or 7075 is 1/8 inch thick which is too thin I.M.O. I use a 5/16 thickness on the apron end and 3/8 on the other end. You wont wear those out if maintained properly. I wish I had a Bridgeport, a year ago I couldn't even spell milling machine. I bought a Taiwan made machine that will handle up to a 1 1/4 inch end mill from Enco. Also bought a "how to" book. An investment of about $2000.00 dollars, (add another $1000.00 for tooling to get started). I am not a professional for sure but common sense goes a long way in machineing. And your right, it is a lot of fun. Martin. Martin.
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 4:44 am    
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Martin, I have researched aluminum on the net without being able to find a good page that describes the qualities of the different numbers.

You mention 2024 and 7075.
Locally, all I can get is 6061 T6. I have been told that this grade is 'ok'.
What do you say?
Could you give us your opinion on these 3 different grades as to: workability and finishing? Hardness?
What parts you use the different grades for?

Would you agree that 6061 is a good all-round grade to use for every part?

I hope others chime in also.
thanks
Bent
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 10:34 am     6061-T6
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Bent, yes, 6061-T6 is the preferred alloy for building steels as far as I am concerned. It also is fine for bearing journals, although I would recomend useing bushings on crosshaft bushings. On the "Brinell Scale", 6061 comes in at a hardness of "95". 2024 at 120, and 7075 at 150. 6061 will also take a "mirror shine" a little easier than the others I think. Fortunetly it is the lowest cost of the three , 7075 being about 3 times as expensive as 6061. All are considered in the catagory of "aircraft aluminum". I machine my endplates from 2X4 6061 and everything else. If I use another alloy its usually because I am out of a certain size of 6061. If you buy 2 feet of 2X4 7075 for endplates be prepared to refinance your house. Martin
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 10:47 am     6061
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Bent, go to WWW.LUMINUM.COM (no "A" in the address) that is Hadco Aluminum. They have all the fancy numbers on aluminum. They tell how to machine it, stretch it, polish it, bite it, or anything else you want to know. Martin.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 2:12 pm    
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Not wanting to hijack this thread, but Martin, could you post pictures of your guitars (All views) in another thread. I saw the undercarriage photos you posted in another thread and was blown away. Can't wait to see the attention to detail you give the rest of the guitar.

Thanks.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 3:45 pm     Richard
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Thanks Richard, I will get a couple of shots up sometime tomorrow. Martin
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 17 Apr 2008 4:02 pm    
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Martin, great stuff! Thanks for the web site. I'll check it out.
As to your machining endplates out of 2X4 stock...wow!
I don't know if this is cutting corners, but I made mine out of 1/4" plate and had the parts tig welded. Other than a rough looking underside it worked fine.
I suppose it would be best to make the fingers out of 7075? Maybe this would prevent the grooves from the strings that some people are having problems with.

Also, what is your opinion on making the fingers out of a more tonal quality material such as bell bronze?
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2008 6:41 am     Richard S.
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Hi Richard S. , here are a few of the last three. I am working on the cocobolo and M.O.P. fretboard and armrest now. The jig and small router base I made for the fretboards works great and a board can be slotted in about 10 minutes. It's a real time saver. Martin.






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Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2008 6:59 pm    
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D@MN!! Nice.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.
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Paul Redmond

 

From:
Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2008 11:58 pm    
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If there is any welding involved, 6061 is the top choice. 2024 is great where mechanical integrity is paramount. 7075 is not offered in as many sizes as the other two, but is very tough...not a good candidate if welding is involved. It depends more on the application than anything else. Copper and Brass Sales, Inc. has warehouses across the country and stocks shapes, etc. that you may not find elsewhere. Be prepared for sticker shock at their cutting charges and packaging/handling charges. They offer a wide variety of material, but you won't get it cheaply. And DON'T make the mistake of ordering a 'random length' to avoid the cutting charge. I did this once on a bar of 2" square 6061. They sent me a full 16-foot length saying that was all they had!!! I didn't have to re-mortgage the house, but I probably should have. They do have all the tech data on everything they sell and a fine in-house tech staff to answer questions. They probably have the most complete selection of extruded shapes in America. Most other distributors don't handle the variety that C & BS does and most won't go the extra mile to get you what you really want or need for your project. So C & BS may be the best viable alternative.
PRR
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Brad Malone

 

From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 19 Apr 2008 7:46 am     Franklin
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So far only one "well know builder" has been mentioned that does all his work "Inhouse"...I thought there were more.
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 19 Apr 2008 10:15 am     Builder
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I'm pretty sure that Mullen builds everything, also Fulawka ( cant spell that ). There is probably more but I dont know who . Martin.
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Several custom steels. NV-112 Boss DD-7
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 19 Apr 2008 1:03 pm    
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Martin, that's right. Ed Fulawka makes everything except: Pedals, it is cheaper and less work for him to hire someone for those.
Tuners.
Strings
He hires someone to tig weld the end plates.
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