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Topic: Intro & How to lighten a Stevens steel |
Randy Cordle
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 4:00 am |
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Hi, All.
I've lurked for a while and now have officially joined the ranks of all the rest of the microtonally enabled. I have had a few laps over the years and have always enjoyed sitting down with a six string as a form of relaxation and musical meditation and currently play a homebrew. I also build assorted musical instruments on a hobby basis and as a way of holding down the cost of my addiction. Hopefully I'll be able to contribute something of value occasionally. Here's a link to a pic of my "lightened" Stevens bar. http://www.angelfire.com/music2/construct/page11temp.html
Thanks to all you folks that contribute all your prized knowledge. SGF is a veritable goldmine of information.
Randy |
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HowardR
From:
N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 4:13 am
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Very cool. Also makes a nice little storage space for some.....musical medication... 
Actually, I use a Smith bar, similar to a Sheerhorn. They are sloped on both sides. Reverse slants are difficult (to me) with this kind of bar. I've often thought of drilling out one side a bit (pun) for a thumb recess.
Are you using a drill press or a milling machine?[This message was edited by HowardR on 09 June 2006 at 05:17 AM.] |
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Jim Jasutis
From:
Tampa, Florida, USA
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 6:04 am
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| I am new at all this and would like to ask a question. Why would you want to lighten a bar? Everything I have read seems to indicate that heavier bars produce better tone. |
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Rick Alexander
From:
Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 6:43 am
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Welcome to the forum Randy!
I was just looking at your page of instruments you have built - acoustic guitar, banjo, bass, mandolin, accordian etc. Pretty amazing work.
I'd sure like to hear how they sound.
Have you built any lap steels? |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 7:22 am
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Hey Randy. Welcome. I just wanted to pass on to you a link to a good friend's site. He is a Boston area luthier and maybe a kindred spirit except that he is probably crazier. I thought of him when I saw your reference to making an upright bass.
http://www.liutaiomottola.com/instruments.htm
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Michael Johnstone
From:
Sylmar,Ca. USA
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Posted 9 Jun 2006 8:11 am
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| Now you need to fill it up with lead so you can get some TONE. |
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Randy Cordle
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 10 Jun 2006 4:39 am
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HowardR, Drill press was used. Pilot drilled with ¼” and followed with 3/8”.
Jim, I’m relatively new also and the Stevens bar gets a little heavy after holding it for extended time. I thought I’d try lightening it since I had two identical bars. I can’t tell any difference in tone between the two bars, so I’ll continue to use the drilled out version.
Rick, Thanks for the complement. I’m currently playing a homebrew steel and am working on my second.
Jon, I’ll check out your friend’s site. I’m always interested in folks that are a little zealous about making what they play!
Michael, My current steel has a humbucker with series/parallel/single coil switch and I run it thru a 5 watt tube amp. I can’t imagine any more tone than what I’m currently getting, but I’m always open for options! Maybe I should try using my dad’s 60 pound blacksmith’s anvil…hmm…
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AJ Azure
From:
Massachusetts, USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 10 Jun 2006 9:42 am
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If you want more control over weight check out http://www.gssteels.com
Back end divot wise I am working on soemthing like that with him for my bar. I'll encourage to offer it as an option. |
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HowardR
From:
N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville
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Posted 10 Jun 2006 4:30 pm
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| The Stevens bar looks like it's plated brass. What kind of bit would I need for stainless steel? |
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Rick Aiello
From:
Berryville, VA USA
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HowardR
From:
N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville
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Posted 10 Jun 2006 5:14 pm
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Thanks Rick. I should have used your milling machine when I was there at The Shenandoah Summit.....if I were sober at any one time  |
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... where you wanna make sure you are gonna get the results you need ...
