The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi folks,

After months of searching for a suitable case for my National New Yorker lap steel, I today received the aluminium takedown shotgun case I got off eBay for $38.89! If fits the guitar perfectly, and has even got a (removable) suitcase-style wheel system so that it can be rolled around!

Check it our here!

I really recommend getting a gun case for all you out there with vintage steels without cases. The USA seems to be full of gun-cases - quality cases that are much cheaper than instrument cases. And on eBay there are bargains - I think the RRP of mine was $199 or similar, and I got it for less than $40 (of course shipping it to the UK was not cheap, but still cheaper than an instrument case).

This is a modern twist on the 1930s gansters carrying their tommy-guns in violin cases.

I know there are others out there who have modified gun and arrow cases for lap steels, and I have a question:

The interior of my case is interlocking "egg-carton" foam. The first time I shut my New Yorker inside the case, quite a lot of pressure was required to close the case. The second and third time it was easier, but I still had to give it quite a push. Is there any way my guitar could be damaged from the pressure of the foam? My New Yorker is a 1947 model, with plexiglas handrest. Would you recommend that I cut some of the foam "tips" away, to ease the pressure slightly, or do you think my lap steel will do fine enclosed by the foam? Maybe the foam will adjust itself to the shape of the guitar?

Any advice would be most appreciated!

Thanks!

Fred<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 23 January 2006 at 06:39 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 23 January 2006 at 06:42 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 23 January 2006 at 06:44 AM.]</p></FONT>

I use a take-down shotgun for my 'Lap Paul' steel. It's a dark Camo/black finish and always gets some funny looks when I first walk in with it.
After I play it I get funny looks.

------------------
Half-assed bottleneck and lap slide player. Full-assed Builder of resonator instruments.

Hi Fred. I wouldn't cut the foam "tips" away but rather the bottom of the foam. This way it will still be uniform where the foam meets the guitar. You should have a little pressure on the guitar when you close the case to keep it from moving but not enough where you have to force it closed. But I think you got the right idea.

Thanks Andy!

How would I go about cutting the foam?

Best regards,

Fred

neat idea. I would be curious of the long term effects of foam in contact with the finish on the lap steel.

I know that bubble wrap leaves an impression (due to out gassing) on finshes and surfaces.
that is why, here at the art museum, we always pack with the bubbles facing out.

so that leads me to thinking ...will your lap steel have impressions from the foam after awhile.
now these impressions are not dents, but a physical reaction on the surface that permanently changes the look of the finish.
I worry about foam and stuiff like that since witnessing the ravages of non acid or non friendly materials on art works. (not just paintings either).<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 23 January 2006 at 08:41 AM.]</p></FONT>

Randy,

Thanks for that input! I will not leave the lap steel in the case for long periods of time - it will only be used to transport the guitar. Do you still think the foam might be risky?

If so, maybe I can wrap the guitar in a cloth before putting it inside the case?

Fred

Fred. I have no idea if the foam will be safe for long periods of time.
every manufacturer uses different formulas.

knowing what could be dangerous or safe is a guess.
Time does tell though. My advice is to keep an eye on things.

experience has me watchful.
as an example:

a few years ago I had to intervene on my father. his health appeared normal but odd things were happening.
it was dementia.

upon closing out his estate I had to go through his closets and other things.
as an avid golfer he had quite the collection of caps. alot of them had foam liners.
most were old hats. ten years or more. and most of the hats were discolored around the band where the foam was inserted.
some of the foam was pliable. some of the foam turned to dust or near dust.
all had discolored.

so my advice is to watch for discoloration of the foam and anything in contact with it.

outgassing is scary stuff.
sometimes it can be benign and sometimes it will ruin things precious.

so keep a close eye. perhaps photo document.

Randy you pack art at a museum? I used to do that as well. Do you work at the Walker per chance?

Cutting shetts of soft foam with alot of area is most often done with a box cutter with the breakaway blades, with the blade fully extended (note-this is edxtremely dangerous for obvious reasons).
Draw a line and score the foam with the blade, keep scoring instead of sawing or 'cutting"...it is hard to get a smooth even surface this way but that side will be towards the case and unseen anyway...get it as close as you can to even but dont worry too much. If the guitar is only in the case for transport only and not for storage for extended periods you should not have to worry about any marks left by the foam.

edit: I forgot to mention that your blade should be SHARP! trying this with a dull blade will result in torn foam and greatly increase the chance of accidentally cutting yourself...please be VERY careful. It is very easy to injure yourself with a box cutter..always be sure you are not cutting towards your body or other fingers...cause if that blade slips.....

Now I need to find a similar cheap anvil type case for my guitar pedalboard....

I built my own lap steel "case"....it wouldnt survive air travel i dont think but is sturdy enough for transport...I will try and post a pic of it later..its pretty um..."unique'...hehe.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Ben Jones on 23 January 2006 at 11:28 AM.]</p></FONT>

An electric carving knife works really well for cutting foam. As for the foam contacting the guitar, I have two shotgun cases for Lap steels, and I just lay a nice soft cloth underneath the steel and fold it over so no foam touches the guitar.

yep. I do work at the Walker Art Center.
not only do I pack art, but I am the gallery lighting designer/tech and also a conservation/preservation framer.
I'd better know about the nature of materials.
dont get me started on masking tape for long term usage.

for cutting foam, all types , we use a non serated blade. it is a wide blade and quite sharp. goes through like a hot knife.
I think the knives we used a specifically made for foam cutting.
if you had to do it all the time I would get something like it.
otherwise, a sharp knife or the electric knife works.
those reci[rocatring blades dont snag and tear.

Yes I forgot about the electric carving knife...that works pretty well.

cool Randy. I did alot of installation in NYC at almost every museum in town, then got into antique paper conservation and restoration in the private sector (very old books and maps). I Knew a guard at the Walker named Thor...man that guy could play some guitar. He was in a band called the Cows.

Just be cool about security guards.

A friend of mine brought a guitar to work to sell to me in a shotgun case one time. By the end of the day, the security guards practically arrested me when I tried to leave with it.

Seems he hadn't told them what was in it, but somebody saw him and reported it. They told me they almost had the I405 freeway shut down looking for a shooter. Took me an hour to get out of work that day. All because he didn't check in with it when he came into the plant.


This was pre-9/11. Nowadays they'd probably just throw us both in the slam before they started asking questions.

Dear Randy,

I sometimes leave an impression due to outgassing too!

Mike

museum work is interesting. I am surrounded by creative alternative people. muscians, artists etc...all trying to support their GAS.

and that kind of gas is exceptable.

Thanks everyone for the advice!

Unfortunately, I haven't got any of the abovementioned tools, so I'll get at it with a kitchen knife. It won't be pretty, but it's the back of the foam anyway. Then I'll get a nice piece of cloth to wrap the guitar in to avoid any issues with the foam.

Have a good day!

Fred

It seems that my s-10 Emmons push-pull would fit in such a case. Would the weight distribution make wheeling it unwieldy? I'd love to have something with a wheel.

Thanks!

there has to be a Dick Cheney joke here somewhere...

Re the case, I use these, if its off-balance add bars, tuner, etc to headstock end in a box... (the handles are centered on these cases)

I am not an authority on packing materials but most owners of expensive firearms use these cases and if there were an issue of the foam products damaging the finishes on these then the NRA magizines and all the sporting mags would have articles warning of the use of these type of cases and the manufacturers of these cases would soon be out of business
Just a point for consideration
Larry

Hi all!

I still haven't "customized" this case for my New Yorker, as I've got a new idea now: I will fill it with new foam in three layers, with a cut-out that fits around the New Yorker on the middle layer (that will be glued to the bottom layer). Then I will (somehow...) cover this with nice, dark-green velvet-ish cloth, along the lines with the plush pre-war original New Yorker case lining. How about that?! I will post pictures when I'm done (which may take some time).

Cheers,

Fred.

I've made a couple of home-made cases that get favorable comments. Cut the foam to size. Sew the cloth to the foam, overlapping the cloth to the area which will be glued to the case. The thread used should be the same colour as the cloth. Include some artful stitches in the central area of the cloth to prevent it from sagging or appearing loose (I use a cross). Then glue the foam to the case. My attempts to glue the cloth to the foam have been messy and not very successful.

How sturdy are the aluminum gun cases?

Could they endure rugged handling as baggage handlers at airports and on airplanes and still protect a valuable guitar?

Seems the aluminum gun cases are lighter than my wooden Magnatone guitar case.

Thanks for any comments.

Aloha,
Don

Don't take it into a Post Office! I agree with Larry. I'm sure the foam is non-reactive. My Dad had a skeet set worth 30 grand. I'm sure the makers would never have used anything that would react with the finish.

I was at Big 5 sporting goods the other day looking at the gun cases. The hardshell "aluminum" case that they had in stock was very lightweight and looks like it would make a good protective case for moving a steel from home to car to club and back. It cost $50. But if I was going to take a steel through airport baggage handling I would get a more heavy duty case, or put the the guitar in the case in a padded box. While the $50 case LOOKS like a flight case, it is not nearly as strong as a real flight case. The aluminum on the exterior is a stick-on foil which covers what is probably pressboard or masonite. The guitar would still be enclosed in foam, but baggage handlers can be pretty rough.

Looks like my answer for a little Gibson
Lap Steel. The measurements are perfect.
Thanks Mitch.

<SMALL>there has to be a Dick Cheney joke here somewhere</SMALL>

Chuck, there's no "sport" in this because it's way too easy. After all, look what's involved....a lawyer, a case, a shotgun, Quyale, and a Dick......it's like having a D12 with 10 & 9...... <font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by HowardR on 19 February 2006 at 10:46 AM.]</p></FONT>