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Topic: Shobud Crossover / Cast frame guitars--cabinet drop issues?? |
James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 11 Dec 2007 3:22 pm |
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Chris LeDrew, You got me curious,  so I thought I'd toss this question out to Shobud Crossover owners or folks that have experience with that type guitar. 
It's my understanding that the cast frame was a typical crossover feature, thus the connection.
Shobud Crossover folks, what do you think about cabinet drop in your SB crossover guitars, or SB crossover guitars you might have owned at one time or another??
Seems with that heavey cast frame, cabinet drop would be pretty minimal, as compared to other non-castframe guitars---what do you think??? |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 11 Dec 2007 4:06 pm
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I don't know that it's ever been proven that "cabinet drop" is due only to the cabinet flexing. According to what I've read here on the Forum, there are other forces at work.
I think, though, that the cast frame should help to eliminate whatever detuning is caused by the cabinet flexing. |
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Roger Edgington
From:
San Antonio, Texas USA
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Posted 11 Dec 2007 7:16 pm
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| The strength in a crossover is the metal frame. The wood is all seperate panals screwed to the frame and none are glued together. |
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Mark MacKenzie
From:
Franklin, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 13 Dec 2007 10:14 am
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My Crossover had more slop in the changer and worn finger and axles so any de-tuning was due to that. The maple is pretty stout...can't belief it flexes.
The whole changer is held in with wood screws. I would suspect they move.
Mark |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 15 Dec 2007 11:52 am
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| Mark MacKenzie wrote: |
The maple is pretty stout...can't belief it flexes.
Mark |
The top on my S12 is 5/4 maple, also the aprons are a full 3/4" Birdseye, it has some drop.
BF
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 16 Dec 2007 1:11 am
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As I've outlined at great length in prior Forum posts, so-called cabinet drop is usually not due to cabinet flexure primarily, but instead due to flimsy mounting of the tuning heads and a host of other phenomena. If the centerline of the pullrods is too far askew to the top or bottom of the cabinet, this can and often does 'flex' the cabinet a bit. In my experiences with trying to solve this problem for players in the past, I've found that the major culprit in these instances is the keyhead mounting....not enough screws holding it/them to the top of the cabinet. This causes flexure in three ways. Also, if the tuner shafts stick out too far from the keyhead, this causes the third of three that I have discovered....deflected tuner shafts upon 'pull'. If the keyhead is not anchored firmly to the top of the cabinet with a sufficient number of screws, the casting/extrusion will also 'cave in' and detune adjacent strings a bit. Like I said, there is usually a number of contributing factors to the so-called cabinet drop gremlin. You simply have to eliminate one at a time until the 'gremlin' is at least tolerable. Switching to a guitar that's keyless would be giant step in the right direction as those guitars don't have the inherent dynamics that a keyed guitar has, but I don't want to get into that discussion again as it's been beaten to a pulp on this Forum already. Anchoring that/those keyheads well is a step toward eliminating about 50% or 60% of the drop problem right off the bat for sure. That alone may bring your guitar into 'acceptable' levels of drop.
PRR |
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