The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi folks,

I'm just checking out the Rob Ickes dobro instructions DVDs (which are great!), and I think the Scheerhorn bar Rob uses seems really handy for acoustic slide and dobro.

But at $55, is it really twice as good as the SP-2 bar I'm currently using?

I love the SP-2 for electric lap steel, but this Scheerhorn seems more suitable for dobro/acoustic lap slide. It would be great if anyone who has used both bars could offer some advice?

And what about the $80 stainless steel version!?

Many thanks, and I hope everyone is having a good weekend!

Fred<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 28 January 2006 at 11:55 AM.]</p></FONT>

I own both. The Scheerhorn fits my hand better.
The Shubb is too bulky, I only keep it for emergencies, and haven't needed it yet.

I don't hear a difference, only feel one.

My Scheerhorn is SS. I got it from Rob.
Expensive, but I'm worth it. Besides I plan to keep it for life. That's only a few bucks a year (I hope).

I have a question about the Scheerhorn. I just watched an instructional video that used one. From the looks of it, the front and back section are kind of rounded, and slanted. Doesn't this make the bar harder to grip when doing slants, especially reverse slants.

At first I didn't think this would be a big deal in accoustic playing, because I didn't think the music used many slants, but more and more I am seeing slants showing up in the instruction material I have, even some of the early stuff.

That is one of the things I read about the SP2 was that it was designed to help with slants.

I usually don't have any difficulty at all doing forward or reverse slants with my chrome Scheerhorn under normal circumstances. It doesn't feel any more difficult than a bullet bar under normal conditions. However, I did drop my bar once last December (for the first time ever) when we were playing an outdoor gig in about 40 degree temps doing a tricky sequence of forward and reverse slants. I decided that cold weather dictated the use of only straight-bar positions. It's a lot harder to show off when your bar is on the ground. I've never dropped a bullet bar but I'm usually using a bullet bar with an electric steel with legs and not dancing around with a dobro.

Bottom line is that I think it's probably not much, if at all, harder to slant with the Scheerhorn.

Al

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So many stringed instruments, so little time...

I have a number of grooved bars -- including Shubbs and Dunlops -- but the Scheerhorn is the one I look for first -- more precise, more comfortable, makes me play better --

I own several different types of bars but since I bought my stainless Scheerhorn I never use any of the others. I use it on all my 6 string weissenborns and
lapsteels it even works well with the heavy guages on my Celtic Cross baritone (.80-19)

I have a Scheerhorn, a Tipton and a Lap Dawg (Dunlop). I almost always go for the small company products, but the Tipton and the Scheerhorn get no use out of me; I use the Lap Dawg. The Tipton will be seeing another "for sale" posting shortly, as I can't use it.

Remember, the Scheerhorn bar is, in essence, a copy of the Tipton bar, which Ron originally made for Jerry Douglas. Jerry VERY seldom uses slants, but the slanted (pointy) ends of the Tipton/Scheerhorn bars are a little easier for the fast single string hammer-ons and pull-offs that Jerry does.
Keith, let me know when you get ready to sell the Tipton. Mine's getting a few dings in it!

This stainless steel "Horn" ... that Howard R. gave me ... has become my "main squeeze" ...

Ever since I've gotten rid of those annoyin' sharp corners and edges ...

In the immortal word's of Jerry Seinfeld:

<SMALL>What's up with that</SMALL>

My thumb never touches the bar ... ever

Hmmm ... Thumbless ... like Iona

<font size=1>I know ... different hand</font>

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Rick, what kind of bar is that? Is it a modified Scheerhorn, or some custom job? Never seen a sculpted bar, other than the SP-2, with semi-bullet ends before.....

Steinar

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www.gregertsen.com

I'd love to know as well - my Scheerhorn certainly doesn't look like that.

That's a stainless steel Sheerhorn bar ... that spent alittle time with me and my equipment ...

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Of course Rick, I should have known...

Ever considered doing this on a... umm.. you know, commercial basis? (Nudge nudge, wink wink.... )


Steinar

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www.gregertsen.com

<SMALL>commercial basis</SMALL>

I'm afraid my "commercial" days are over ...

But I'll tell ya how I did it ...

First ...

Belt sander: 180 grit belt ... to "ease" the edges

Then ...

Disc Sander: 220 grit ... even up any "lines"

Then ...

Disc Sander: 320 grit ... remove 220 scratches

Then ...

Fine wire brush wheel (on bench grinder) ... remove 320 scratches / prepare for buffing

Then ... To the Buffer:

Sisal Wheel w/ Emery (black) Compound: Using welding gloves ... worked it till I couldn't stand the pain anymore ... ... Literally ...

Then ....

Spiral Sewn Wheel w/ Menzerna Green SS Compound

Then ...

Loose Muslin Wheel w/ Menzerna Hi Gloss SS Polish


The Menzerna is $$$ ... but I sure like it.




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Thanks for all the input folks!

So, how does the chrome-plated brass version stand up to the stainless steel bar? I guess the SS has durability on its side, but are there any other differences? I like the chrome-plated surface of my SP-2 bar - is the stainless steel as "fast"?

Check out the E.G Smith stainless bar - comes with a nonslip area where you hold it, and a pattern of notches on the top that really keep it from skidding around in your hand. They can be seen and purchased on Ivan Rosenberg's site - paid about $40 for mine, which is a great price for a stainless steel bar. I used Scheerhorn bars before, and I think they're the nicest out there, but they now live in the bar museum that occupies drawer space next to the capo museum!

The bar is a minor expense in the grand scheme of things, and it's important to find one you can live with happily. Don't give a thought to the cost! I forget who's responsible for the quote "when you buy the best, you only cry once", but it's right on the money. So to speak.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Philip Tamarkin on 30 January 2006 at 04:39 AM.]</p></FONT>

Here is the link:

E.G Smith Bar

Looks pretty cool!

So, I had pretty much decided on one of the Scheerhorns, and now the E.G. Smith stainless steel bar is thrown into the debate.

Any other E.G. Smith users out there? The "large sized" one in the link above, is the size and weight equivalent to the Scheerhorn?

Also, could someone please enlighten me on the "speed" of these non-plated stainless steelbars? I love the feel of the chrome-plated SP-2 against the strings, and I'm looking for the same feel but a less clumsy bar for dobro playing.

Thanks!
<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 30 January 2006 at 07:39 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 30 January 2006 at 07:53 AM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Fred Kinbom on 30 January 2006 at 07:54 AM.]</p></FONT>

I use the E.G. Smith bar. All of my other contoured bars have been sitting idle since I got it. I got mine from Jim Heffernan's web site. I switch off between it and a bullet bar for dobro. For me it is the easiest bar to hold and manage of any that I've tried.

I am a fellow E.G. Smith user. I'm sure they are at least as heavy, if not heavier than a Scheerhorn bar.

Along with an old Nick Manaloff bullet bar, this is the one I also use for 6-string lap steel along with the dobro.

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Mark

Another happy EG Smith owner here, I use it for both Dobro and Weissenborn style. The large bar is very close in size and weight to a Scheerhorn bar. I know of a guy who is taking a Scheerhorn and sandblasting the sides for a better grip... I think this would be perfect.

Just 2 cents of mine..

Jon

Since I got the Smith bar, I retired my Sheerhorn to the pastures of Virginia....


Rick assured me visitation privledges, so I'll see it again in April....

<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by HowardR on 30 January 2006 at 07:26 PM.]</p></FONT>

i use the dunlop version of the stevens steel (dunlop 925). costs about 20 bucks last time i bought one and i can do all the slants, hammer-ons, pull-offs a person would want to do. i've tried the scheerhorn, eg smith, lapdawg, etc and find them all harder to use. i think it depends on what you're used to. and none of them sound intrinsically better than another. the bar doesn't make any sound that is not directed by the barholder.

<SMALL>Since I got the Smith bar, I retired my Sheerhorn to the pastures of Virginia</SMALL>

I remember that bar ... you showed it to Harry D. and me at Joliet '05 ...

You said you got it from this fellow ...

A bar that really feels "right" makes all the difference. Count me in on the Smith side- best bar I have, and I've tried a bunch. Although similar in size/weight to the Scheerhorn, I think the cutoff is a bit sharper, pulloffs are a breeze.