changing yer pedals at home
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
changing yer pedals at home
hey steelies -im looking for abit of advice.
i own a msa universal and need to swap my 6th an 4th pedal around.
ive never approached the mechanical issues of my guitar and the last thing i want to do is have a disaster on my case and mess it all up
would you guys recommend that i just go for it or leave it to the experts
thanks -spencer
p.s. any advice on changing them would be great aswell
i own a msa universal and need to swap my 6th an 4th pedal around.
ive never approached the mechanical issues of my guitar and the last thing i want to do is have a disaster on my case and mess it all up
would you guys recommend that i just go for it or leave it to the experts
thanks -spencer
p.s. any advice on changing them would be great aswell
-
- Posts: 1780
- Joined: 17 Mar 2004 1:01 am
- Location: Elizabethtown, Kentucky, USA, R.I.P.
change
I would Let Someone That Knows How Do It You Can Get In A Mess. SONNY.
If both pedals have the same number of pulls, then if you make a chart of which hole on the bellcranks and which hole in the changer finger each rod is now located in, you should be able to swap them around on an MSA with out alot of problems.
If the pedals don't have the same number of pulls, you might need some longer rods to make it work. Hard to say with out seeing the guitar, but with a good chart of where everything is now, it should be doable!
JE:-)>
If the pedals don't have the same number of pulls, you might need some longer rods to make it work. Hard to say with out seeing the guitar, but with a good chart of where everything is now, it should be doable!
JE:-)>
-
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- Location: Mt Savage, Md USA
Tear er apart!!
If you want to learn a little about steel guitar, do it yourself. My first good steel was an MSA D-10 that I took apart & put back together, just to see if I could, learned mucho about steel by doing that. Changing pedals around can be a little difficult on the old MSA because you have to pull the bell cranks off to move them, not like the new guitars, that can be quite a job, but if you take your time & mark where the rods go in the bellcranks before you move them, you should be ok.
Ernie
Ernie
- Gary Shepherd
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You can do it. Just be sure to write down where EVERYTHING connects before you start. It might be helpful to take some pictures too. Pedal steel is really just a machine. If you have basic mechanical skills, you should be able to take it apart and put it back together. Maybe even with no pieces left over.
Spencer-
Advice from a newby with and MSA Classic S-10 and no pedal steel repair shop nearby:
If you are mechanically inclined at all you should consider doing it yourself. It is comforting if not liberating to know the guts of your guitar and how to set it up and reconfigure it. If it is your only PSG you will be able to play it while you would otherwise have to wait for it to come back from the shop. Mine was in rough shape and configuration when I received it. I was able to reconfigure it and set it up without incident. Just poke around at the underside over a few days until you are comfortable with the logic of it prior to taking it apart.
Watch the positions of those little springs at the end of the crossbars so you can replace them properly, and don't lose your pull-pins (those little round one-toothed brass devils that fit in the bell crank holes and bite onto your pull-rods).
Check the condition of your pull-pins while you are at it to make sure they are still round. If not, replace them or at least rotate them so the rounder side is facing the changer. As I found out this can make a big difference in the smoothness of action of the guitar.
If pedal 8 has more pulls than pedal 6 you will need some extra pull rods to make up the difference after the swap.
Some links I have found useful for mechanics:
http://www.mullenguitars.com/guitar-tips.htm
Particularly the section about adjusting pedal travel.
http://www.steelguitar.com/steelmap/steelmap.htm
Carter's site - Generous heaps of mechanical insight here. Well worth studying.
http://www.mts.net/~linkon/parts_list.html
Source for brass pull-pins (they call them "pull tabs"), pull-rods, and other MSA compatible parts.
http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/
Another good source for MSA parts - the source I use most often. Tom has plated pull-pins, but I found them hard to work with and got the brass ones above instead.
To maximize playing time don't pull it apart until you have assembled the parts you need, e.g. extra pull rods, extra pull rod bearings - these are good things to have around for maintenance and configuration changes anyway. A precision oiler is also handy for lubrication and a work-light makes the job easier.
Consider assembling a set of the hex wrenches you need for your guitar and keep them close to the guitar along with any other tools that will encourage you to make adjustments and solve problems as they arise. E.g. String winder, string cutter, screwdriver, extra tuning nuts, extra pull-pins, adjustable wrench, half-inch nut driver (for loose jacks).
Take careful notes on the routing of your pull rods before removing them, but don't be afraid to experiment with changing the routing once you feel comfortable with the mechanics.
I'd be happy to answer any questions along the way. Though I have never messed with the changer assembly itself other than to lube it I'm fairly experienced with the linkages and setup ... for a newb. Frankly, you probably won't need any help.
Good luck.
Advice from a newby with and MSA Classic S-10 and no pedal steel repair shop nearby:
If you are mechanically inclined at all you should consider doing it yourself. It is comforting if not liberating to know the guts of your guitar and how to set it up and reconfigure it. If it is your only PSG you will be able to play it while you would otherwise have to wait for it to come back from the shop. Mine was in rough shape and configuration when I received it. I was able to reconfigure it and set it up without incident. Just poke around at the underside over a few days until you are comfortable with the logic of it prior to taking it apart.
Watch the positions of those little springs at the end of the crossbars so you can replace them properly, and don't lose your pull-pins (those little round one-toothed brass devils that fit in the bell crank holes and bite onto your pull-rods).
Check the condition of your pull-pins while you are at it to make sure they are still round. If not, replace them or at least rotate them so the rounder side is facing the changer. As I found out this can make a big difference in the smoothness of action of the guitar.
If pedal 8 has more pulls than pedal 6 you will need some extra pull rods to make up the difference after the swap.
Some links I have found useful for mechanics:
http://www.mullenguitars.com/guitar-tips.htm
Particularly the section about adjusting pedal travel.
http://www.steelguitar.com/steelmap/steelmap.htm
Carter's site - Generous heaps of mechanical insight here. Well worth studying.
http://www.mts.net/~linkon/parts_list.html
Source for brass pull-pins (they call them "pull tabs"), pull-rods, and other MSA compatible parts.
http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/
Another good source for MSA parts - the source I use most often. Tom has plated pull-pins, but I found them hard to work with and got the brass ones above instead.
To maximize playing time don't pull it apart until you have assembled the parts you need, e.g. extra pull rods, extra pull rod bearings - these are good things to have around for maintenance and configuration changes anyway. A precision oiler is also handy for lubrication and a work-light makes the job easier.
Consider assembling a set of the hex wrenches you need for your guitar and keep them close to the guitar along with any other tools that will encourage you to make adjustments and solve problems as they arise. E.g. String winder, string cutter, screwdriver, extra tuning nuts, extra pull-pins, adjustable wrench, half-inch nut driver (for loose jacks).
Take careful notes on the routing of your pull rods before removing them, but don't be afraid to experiment with changing the routing once you feel comfortable with the mechanics.
I'd be happy to answer any questions along the way. Though I have never messed with the changer assembly itself other than to lube it I'm fairly experienced with the linkages and setup ... for a newb. Frankly, you probably won't need any help.
Good luck.
- Alan Brookes
- Posts: 13218
- Joined: 29 Mar 2006 1:01 am
- Location: Brummy living in Southern California
Doing things myself has created all sorts of hassles over the years, but without it how could I learn ?
Last edited by Alan Brookes on 7 Nov 2007 5:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
thanks guys - and thanks neil - im printing those pages out right now
im gona do it - i quite enjoy fixing guitar parts and rhodes piano parts, tines/pick ups etc (although not as complexed as a pedal steel)
im gona have to learn it one day and knowing your steel inside and out has gotta help with understanding it more.
ill keep you posted on my progress.
really appreciate your advice.
im gona do it - i quite enjoy fixing guitar parts and rhodes piano parts, tines/pick ups etc (although not as complexed as a pedal steel)
im gona have to learn it one day and knowing your steel inside and out has gotta help with understanding it more.
ill keep you posted on my progress.
really appreciate your advice.
- chris ivey
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- John Roche
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- John Fabian
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You will probably find this MSA owner's manual handy.
http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/download ... Manual.pdf
http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/download ... Manual.pdf