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Topic: Preview of my new Bud |
Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 1:02 pm |
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I'll show this off with a good photoshoot at a future date, after shining it up & all. Just received it today. It needs a massive amount of setting up which is just fine. I like nothing better than getting to know the innards of a new guitar (seriously, no sarcasm intended). It has two-hole pullers, 5 levers---the knee lever is homemade and has to be upgraded---, 12 strings. It is, to the best of my knowledge, a twelve string square front Pro 1.
Although I knew that it was a typical faded LDG green color which is far from my favorite (give me blonde or tobacco!), it actually is a lot better looking than I expected---nevermind these photos.
So today's question----what can anyone tell me about the "Don Chance Model".
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Jim Eaton
From:
Santa Susana, Ca
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 1:40 pm
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Well for one thing, Don knew where to buy decals!!!
JE:-)> |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 1:43 pm
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| Jim---I had taken it at face value and that honestly never even occurred to me. Do ya think? |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 6:42 pm
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Is this the one we talked about last week? Congrats, man!
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 8:44 pm Inlay
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Why is the inlay on the neck different from the inlay on the body? It seems reversed?
Is that unusual?
Last edited by Nic du Toit on 30 Oct 2007 8:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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mike nolan
From:
Forest Hills, NY USA
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Posted 30 Oct 2007 8:49 pm
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| Hey.... looks like a good one. I have a Coop vertical knee kit that I never installed. We should talk. |
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Mike Phillips
From:
Brooklyn, NY
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 7:27 am
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Hey Jon --
Gnyce.
Mike |
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Jim Cohen
From:
Philadelphia, PA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 7:36 am
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I think that's a typo, Jon. It's really the 'Bon Chance' model!
Good luck,
JC
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Andy Sandoval
From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 11:12 am
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| Nic, I just bought a Professional and noticed that the inlay slanted one way on the apron and the other way on the neck. After researchin it I discovered other Sho-Buds that were the same way. So, I'm assuming that this is a common occurence. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 11:14 am
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Good one, Jim!
Chris---yep, this be that. MUCH better looking than the ebay photos.
It's funny---it just never crossed my mind that the decal was anything but legit. Although as avidly as I have read the forum for however many years I've been here, I'd think that I would have seen any and every Bud designation there is by now. But it still didn't occur to me that somebody would have the...something...to put his name where LDG would be (well, if it were an LDG model...)
Mike--that might just be perfect, like it was meant to be or something. I'll shoot you an email.
edit-------Near simultaneous post, Andy. Thanks for that info. I forgot to inquire and I was indeed wondering about Nic's question. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 11:24 am MECHANICS!!
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Question for Bud mechanics:
I am pretty good under a steel and I would eventually figure something out but------I will need to do major changes to the setup. Changing the E lowers from LKR to RKL for starters but there's a whole lot I want to do. What is the best method to remove pullers from the cross shaft? What do you disassemble to free up a cross shaft end? The less I have to do, the better but I can see that there's a lot more disassembly than a modern open-ended bellcrank. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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mike nolan
From:
Forest Hills, NY USA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 11:40 am
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Jon,
I recently completely rebuilt an S-10 of the same era. I could stop by this weekend sometime and run through it with you..... To remove the rod pullers, you first need to remove the pull rod by loosening the allen set screw in the brass swivels. Then you remove the two wood screws from the aluminum L bracket that holds the cross shaft... sometimes you need to remove the cross shaft holder at the apron end as well. Then loosen the allen set screw that holds the puller to the shaft aand slide it off..... repeat as necessary. If you are doing a major set-up, you might be best off pulling all of the rods to give yourself room to work. I did a complete reassembly of my 4X5 including Coop rebuilt changer in about 6 hours. |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 11:48 am
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Cool, Mike---that's about what I figured. No secret tricks--just the obvious disassembly. And the more I consider how extensive this job will be, the more I think I'll just have to pretty much strip it down instead of wrestling with a bunch of stuff left in the way. Thank goodness for digital cameras. This will be well photographed before I touch a thing.
The weekend is not too good for me. But man, thanks for the offer!
And heads-up. Email was sent.
--------edit: and for criminy's sake, what the hell is your avatar, anyway?!    |
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mike nolan
From:
Forest Hills, NY USA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 12:01 pm
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Jon,
I thought that all steelers would recognize the nasty curly end of a busted 3rd string, freshly fished out of the changer. |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 1:39 pm
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Hey Jon; way to go and congrates on that Bud. Looks like a single-12 made during the first years of the Pro II Custom....so continued the rope inlay and wide pedals; as they went right to the narrow slick pedals after that...So yet another transition Shobud..geeeeeze> probably around late '74-early '75.
Is it still the double raise/single lower??
Also; all decals put on the factory are water decals under the lacquer....so you can run your fingernail across that name decal and see if it is under or on top. If under; sure man...shobud would do anything for somebody's specific order.....but I doubt it.
And pretty much as explained...dissassembly is pretty much that....but you would do good to go ahead and take those brackets and crossbars out...to clean the gunk out...as you want everything to work silky smooth; less friction as possible....>rods in straight line and if you can do without the bends in the rods...I'd go for that too.
Are there adjustable lower springs on this one?? If so; I have a very nifty spring trick for ya...to get the octive pulls to pull more evenly on this two hole puller system....email me for that write up.
These single-12's Shobuds never had "Pro~1" on it...so don't worry about replacing that name decal...if ya just wanna rip it off there. If you do want it off...email me on how to get it off without hurting the lacquer and how to restore that luster of that area if needed.
Have fun...and what ever I can do to help/answer/laugh....or whatever....just yell my brother...
Ricky
_________________
Ricky Davis
Email Ricky: sshawaiian2362@gmail.com |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 2:18 pm
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Hey Mike-- I play a #*&@%&%* guitar and I've never ever broken a third string in my life so I wouldn't know what one looks like. 
Ricky--the changer is double/double. And the springs are not adjustable. And old Don Chance crumbles right off under my fingernail. Looks like it's not even leaving a blemish. Sorry Don. I'd like to say you left your mark....but not if I can help it.
Thanks loads for chiming in.
I don't know if serial numbers on Sho-Buds mean anything to anybody (like we all know they mean next to nothing on Fenders) but what I've got is model # 6160, serial # 8205, inspected by Pat Murphy. |
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David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 7:17 pm
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Jon, looks like you will end up with a complete dissassemble, which is probably a good idea for cleaning purposes, like Ricky said. But until then, there are some lazy tricks for some setup changes. To switch changes between levers or pedals with the same number of pulls, just slide the pull rods out, loosen the bell cranks on the cross-shafts, and slide the cranks over to where they need to be. Then you switch the pull rods and slide them back in.
Have fun. Are you going to keep it extended E9? |
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Jon Hyde
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 31 Oct 2007 8:22 pm
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Hey Jon,
I got a 75 LDG 6 months or so back - same faded green - it almost looks orange. It looks great - as does yours. If you're going to go ahead and disassemble the whole thing anyway (it's a great idea to clean every part as Ricky says) it's not a bad idea to replace the pot metal fingers while you're at it. That's what I did - I had Duane Marrs make a set for me. 'Course, the pot metal finger Buds sound great too, but it's thought - doesn't harm the instrument at all...
Take up Ricky on his offer for help if you need it. He knows what he's talking about! He's been a great help to me.
Jon |
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Barry Blackwood
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 6:53 am
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| Jon, does the pickup cover serve the same purpose as the foam found in later models to quiet the pull rods? |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 12:24 pm
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Barry---I'm reading your post and I'm saying to myself "self--what on earth is he talking about...pickup cover?!" Then I go back to the guitar and....that's what that is! I didn't even recognize what the part actually was. Ha! Good eye. Yes--it certainly is for rod stability/alignment. I cannot comment on its effectiveness yet.
Thanks for the additional tips & advice, guys. I'm not sure yet just how far I want to go with this--I do want to turn it back over and play it in this lifetime.
My setup is still up in the air. I am for sure going to string it as a Uni 12. I don't want a guitar that has different stringing than my others. I'm afraid it would create a disincentive to play it (that is--my limited brain is scared of a setup too different from my other guitars). But I also want to keep this lightweight and fairly minimal so I'm working up a setup that borrows from my altered Universal E9/B6 but is lighter on the B6 side. I may add a lever and/or I may add a couple of pedals if they can be found.
btw---re: the reference to pot metal---how would I know if it is or isn't pot metal? I had believed this guitar to not have pot metal parts but I certainly don't know much of anything on the subject of when that stuff came into play (I thought it was the Super Pro that brought the pot metal but with all the 'transition' models, who knows). What is the tip off? |
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Jim Cohen
From:
Philadelphia, PA
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 1:14 pm
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| Stick a tiny piece in a pipe and see what happens? |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 1:19 pm
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Jon Hyde
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 2:57 pm
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| You can tell the pot metal fingers pretty easily. If the ball end of the string sits in a slot then you've got pot metal fingers. If the ball end slides onto a pin then you've got aluminum. I've had 2 with pot metal fingers and they sounded cool - I upgraded them because I wanted them to sound more like my Professional plus they handle the wear and tear better. Nothing to panic about though! |
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Jon Light (deceased)
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 3:31 pm
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Thanks Jon! Oh well. Pot metal. Actually, for years my awareness of the stuff was because of my friend's broken knee lever part (twice) on his later LDG. Only recently have I become aware of the tonal implications of pot metal fingers.
But thanks for putting it in perspective, too, re: the urgency of replacing the fingers. It is certainly on my list of things to consider but my priority is to get this baby set up so I can PLAY IT!!
Can anyone help me to understand which piece of pot metal hardware is the troublesome one (the one that breaks)? And, again, how to identify if mine is pot metal or not? |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 1 Nov 2007 4:08 pm
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Jon,
Rest assured, you're undercarriage is NOT pot metal. Your fingers are, yes. Slots indicate pot metal. That was due to the transition during that period. But the two-hole pullers are not pot metal, nor are the knee levers or cross shafts.
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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