The Steel Guitar Forum

Had my Carter a few months now.

I was recording on a session the other day and the guitar would not hold tune ???

Why is this, strings need changing, bad strings or what ???

I change my strings every 6 weeks, so there do anyways. Or does the guitar need more break in time ???

Check everything under it. Make sure all bellcranks are secure and make sure the pull rods are not binding together anywhere. A light coat of oil on all moving parts also helps. Make sure the roller nuts are oiled and moving freely also. That's the tuning problem I've found on several guitars(not Carter) though. A stuck roller nut is a small thing that can turn tuning into a nightmare, especially when your in front of a large crowd and it happens.

I'm of the opinion there is no such thing as break in time..

On a Steel Guitar I'm not even sure what that means..

there is no motor..

It always comes back to strings and the way they are wrapped.

First question:

Has this particular Steel ever held tune ?

IF the answer is yes then no need to go any farther.

Change the strings again, make sure you have at least 2.5 to 3" inches extra for the wrap. 5 to 6 wraps per string on the tuners.

The odds of an Instrument having EVERY string go out of tune and it being a functionality problem is really really up there...more than even Vegas would predict.

just a thought...

When you put new strings on do you bring them to pitch then pull them a few times to give them a gentle stretch ? New strings will relax a 1/2 tone or so by doing this. Sometimes when I change the 3rd and the 5th it takes a few tugs to get them to become stable.

This is a brand new Carter I take it, are you sure the strings are over the bridge saddles correctly ? they are ALL not centered, some are off set on the bridge. The fat bridges should have the strings set towards the end away from the back of the Steel.The strings should NOT be in the center of the fat bridge.

good luck

tp

PS, for those who may be wondering why some bridges on the Carters are fatter, it was designed that way on purpose to put more MEAT ( metal) into the bridge , as I was told by John.

Thanks guys !

I think it may be the strings, I oiled everything up, I will again and change all strings !!!

Hi Jamie. There could be a number of things but being it's a new guitar I would try changing the strings first. Sometimes you can get a bad set. I have run into that. Let us know after you put a new set on.
Terry

Jamie,
Make sure there is a little slack at the tuning nylons with the pedal(s)at rest.

BF

Check to see if possibly an end of a spent string might have slipped down into the pulling system, just a thought.
Gene

One thing I haven't seen mentioned but which occured to me ---
Seems as though you should avoid getting lubricant on the ball ends of the strings when "oiling" the changer. The lube could wick it's way into the backwrap of the strings by gravity and the flexing of the wrap as the finger moves.This might cause the wrap to start slipping. I also think the brass ferrel has a certain "grip" on a dry string when it is first tensioned and lube could change this.

Jamie-

With regard to the possibility of a roller nut problem, lubrication is not enough. You need to remove each pedaled or levered string from its roller nut, and roll the nut back and forth with your finger to make sure it is moving freely. The roller may be rubbing against something. If you can feel drag on the roller the string will not return to tune after application of a pedal or lever (assuming it was tuned prior to the bend).

Something that has not been mentions at least I haven't noticed a mention is be sure the lower return springs are tight enough. The builder sets them with just enough tension to return the finger because the tighter it is the harder a lowering pull becomes. One of the most common tuning problems is when a lower is applied and released the lowering spring is not quite strong enough to completely return the string to pitch so it will come back slightly flat, then you tune it up to pitch and then you do a raise on that same string and it comes back sharp and the cycle goes on and on. Engage a pull that lowers a string and slowing let it off then push against the lowering finger and see if it was snug against the stop and if not tighten it a couple turns. Check each string that is giving a problem.
Naturally if a string doesn't lower then that is obviously not the problem.
Jerry

For some steels there most definitely is a break in period.
If you have to make changes to the nylon tuners more than a small fine tune, change the strings!
I know that modern steels don't break strings but... that doesn't mean you should not change them.
I get about 12 hours of playing before I need to change them.
They go dead, less highs, harmonics are off, need more adjustment at the nylons.. just change them out.

C'mon, it's a STEEL GUITAR. Whadda ya WANT???

The Steel is a few months old, if it "HAS" stayed in tune before this set of strings...

it's the strings and/or the way they are strung or crossing the bridges.

Don't look for issues that are not there without re-stringing the Steel first.

My note above 'splains it Lucy...

Jamie did you record in a studio , did it have any air con running maybe on hot or cold, that will cause it to
detune. just a thought

I was playing my guitar with the cieling fan on and the tuning was driving me crazy till i turned off the fan then every thing was fine. Just a thought.

My guitar is the studio - - has a few global tuning issues if there is a tragic difference in temp from outside to inside.

Tim

Jamie,Is the whole guitar slipping.or just the strings that are being activated by pedals,and levers?

The first thing I noticed was "session". Some studios are running the AC pretty low, and it's a constant battle. The battle worsens as your hand and palm warm up. The Ac cools [contracts] the strings, a warm or sweaty palm [expands] them causing a constant tug of war. Been there done that.

Good luck.