The Steel Guitar Forum

Thought maybe some folks would enjoy seeing my current project. So close to being done.... Here are some before pics. It was pretty nasty. After pics once I finish the clean up.... N.

Was this guitar in a flood?
JE:-)>

Thanks for posting this Neil.
I am looking forward to seeing the outcome.
It is a shame for this guitar to have gotten in
that shape.

I think it was just in a basement a really long time but who knows? I didn't get a lot of history but I did get a lot of "ick"! Plus it looked like it had 30 years of old oil in the changer. Big thumbs up to MSA though. The parts are such high quality they really shined up amazingly well!

Neil, I wouldn't call that a restoration....I'd call it a RESURRECTION! My hat's off to you. I know how much work it's gonna take to bring her back to the land of the living!

But, it should be one HE!! of a great guitar when you're done. I'm looking forward to seeing the "finished" pics.

Neil, that one almost made me cry. That is the identical guitar to the one that I had from 1976 to 1990 or so...color and all. What has that poor thing been through??

Yep no wonder she refinished nice..it is MSA quality!
Good luck and godspeed with the restoration!

Neil: Is that a fungal growth on the top ? If so I recommend that you remove all the hardware and clean the top with alcohol. Then remove the finish completely, because if mold or fungus has worked its way under the finish and you apply more finish over the top it will work its way through fairly quickly. Remember that mold is a living vegetable. It needs to be killed. There are plenty of cleansers made specifically for that purpose. Then you need to clean off the cleaner before sanding it down to good wood, at which stage you can decide whether to varnish or paint it. If the wood is permeated with damp so that it is permanently marked you might want to finish it with paint rather than varnish.

This is fun process, because at the end you feel like you've saved and preserved something that would otherwise have been discarded. Renovating old instruments is a very satisfying process.

I heard they are reserving a spot for you in steel guitar heaven

oh and happy birthday:)

A

Hey all. Here are my first "after" pics. Today I got to hear her for the first time. Really nice. Big and fat. The E9 neck is all dialed in. I tried a slightly different different setup than on my Sho-Bud and like this much better. Borrowing from a couple of other forum members, I changed my 6th string from a half step raise to a half step lower. Kept the half step raise with it on the 1st string. I'm think I'm really going to like it this way! Enjoy the new pics. N.

WOW!!! What a difference!

You did a great job, Neil. Congrats.

I'm down to one part needed to finish this off and it's driving me nuts.... The mounting collar for one tuning key broke when I was reinstalling it. I've looked all over locally for this but have found that this collar is fine thread. Also tried a new Grover and it won't fit without drilling out the keyhead a touch. Anyone have a collar out of an old Grover "pat pend." key that they'd be willing to sell? Thanks very much! N.

Hard to see in this pic but there are these little "collar doo-dads" on a couple of the rods. Is this a half-stop? they were up flush to the changer when I started but I just have them backed off now. Help?

Neil,

First of all, GREAT JOB on the restoration! Your MSA looks wonderful.

Those little 'collar doo-dads' keep the rod from poking out when the tension is off the knee lever. I asked the same question a few years ago.

Tom

Finally got this MSA all finished up! Thanks to Third Eye Music in Springfield, MO who had the tuning key part I needed. Very nice and I highly recommend them if you're looking for odd parts like this. Thanks to everyone for input and answers on this. The support is much appreciated! Now off to practice....

Tom Is right on! Those little "doo-dads" keep the pull rods from poking out of the endplate when you fold up the levers. (They should not be flush against the changer, but spaced about 1/8" - 1/4" away from the pulling fingers, so the fingers don't touch them when you're activating the levers.)