| Author |
Topic: Repairing knicks in Laquer Finish |
Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 5:04 am |
|
Can anyone tell me a way to repair some knicks in my laquer on my guitar? If it is worth it to try? any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks!
Brandon
_________________
'74 Emmons D10 P/P 8x5,'15 Rittenberry D10 8x5, Peavey Nashville 112, 400 & 1000, Fender Twin Reverb Tone Master, Hilton, Goodrich L120, Boss DD-3 and RV-3 |
|
|
|
James Sission
From:
Sugar Land,Texas USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 5:30 am
|
|
| Brandon, Email Ricky Davis. He is close enough to help you and has a good deal of experience in repairs like that...Call me or email me if you need his contact info....James |
|
|
|
Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 7:36 am
|
|
Thanks for the info James,
Brandon |
|
|
|
Russ Tkac
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 8:23 am
|
|
Contact a piano store in your area and ask if they have a cabinet man. He should be able to burn in and fix some of the chips. This is a standard repair in the piano business.
Russ |
|
|
|
Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 9:23 am
|
|
Thanks Russ. 
Brandon
_________________
'74 Emmons D10 P/P 8x5,'15 Rittenberry D10 8x5, Peavey Nashville 112, 400 & 1000, Fender Twin Reverb Tone Master, Hilton, Goodrich L120, Boss DD-3 and RV-3 |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 8:16 pm
|
|
Lacquer melts into itself - the solvent essentially re-liquifies the nitrocellulose solids. If you are simply trying to fill finish chips only without color, all you need is a small amount of nitrocellulose lacquer (you'll likely need to get it from Stewmac or a guitar repair shop - paint stores don't carry it any longer due to air regulations...all their lacquers and 99% of the aerosols are Acrylic lacquers). You simply use a small brush or toothpick (depending on chip size) and drop-fill the spot just above the surface (it will shrink as it dries). Let it dry about 4-5 days, then wet sand starting with 800 Wet-or-Dry paper, working progressively up to 2000. Assuming you don't put way too much lacquer (or too little) in the spots, you'll probably never be able to find the repairs a week later.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 8:26 pm
|
|
What Jim Sliff said.
If you have been using any kind of silicone based polish/wax you will need to be careful of that. The lacquer will not stick to it very well. Clean all that off before touching up. |
|
|
|
Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
|
Posted 2 Apr 2007 10:26 pm
|
|
What Jim said is correct of course. I would add that when I was in the autobody repair business I had to touch up chips in the paint. I used the lacquer as Jim said then when it was completely dry I wrapped a coin such as a half dollar or quarter in a soft cloth and used rubbing compound. The coin served as a "sanding block" so the paint filler would be rubbed down flush with the finish. This method works very well in filling chips in a guitar finish.
Jerry |
|
|
|
Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
|
Posted 3 Apr 2007 5:41 am
|
|
Thanks for the responses guys. This will be a big help
Brandon |
|
|
|
Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
|
Posted 3 Apr 2007 11:30 am
|
|
| From Mark Giles- if it's a sizeable ding consider a drop or 2 of superglue- dries quickly and sands clear- don't put too much on at a time |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 3 Apr 2007 12:59 pm
|
|
And don't do the superglue trick if it's humid (above about 40%) - it will have a white outline from "blush".
Re the rubbing compound - be careful with that one, you can go right through the finish if it's thin. "Polishing" compound is a finer grade and a little safer. Either one will work, though.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
|
Posted 3 Apr 2007 1:11 pm
|
|
Jim, you are right that rubbing compound can cut thru a finish as can sandpaper. That is the reason for using a coin in the cloth so the compound concentrates on the raised patch of lacquer and when you have it rubbed near flush you should go to a finer compound usually white in color and finish the job. You must use great care with this proceedure to avoid over doing it just as you should on any other proceedure. The reason for a coin is that there are no sharp corners to gouge the finish.
Jerry |
|
|
|
