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Rick T-logo replacement tuners Question
Posted: 13 Mar 2007 12:12 pm
by Pat O'Hearn
I have a wonderful sounding but high-mileage 40s T-logo B6 with worn out tuners.
- original individual open-back machines with white, (once upon a time) buttons.
Any advice on appropriate new replacements would be much appreciated. - Thanks
Posted: 13 Mar 2007 4:33 pm
by Bill Creller
Pat, have you looked at what Stewart/McDonald has to offer?
They have the open-geared type like the Silver Hawaiian has on another post here. You may have to settle for enclosed gear type with metal classic knobs, unless Allparts has some more like the original on yours. Rickenbacher used a lot of different tuners.
Posted: 13 Mar 2007 8:43 pm
by Pat O'Hearn
Stewart / McDonald has a set of Waverly Ivorids that best visually match what’s on the Rick. Beautiful, -but a wee too Cartier.
Perhaps the Grover nickel ovals (also flattering) may be the way to go. Thanks Bill, for the info.
Posted: 13 Mar 2007 9:40 pm
by Pat O'Hearn
On second thought, If the Waverly’s will work, could be time to repaint the faded / yellowed and scratched plates and half-gone fret outlines and re-chrome the hardware. Absolutely don’t want to run off the Mojo, but sure would be nice to refresh this "paid my dues" fine old gal.
Oh Lawd, I’m staring down the rabbit hole .
Posted: 14 Mar 2007 7:19 am
by Andy Sandoval
Pat, I just put some Grover Vintage Sta-Tites on my 37' Silver Hawaiian and I'm really happy with them. For only $31 at Stewart MacDonald you can't go wrong.
Posted: 14 Mar 2007 10:22 am
by Pat O'Hearn
Andy, what a Stunning instrument. I saw the additional images on your Silver Hawaiian post yesterday. Congratulations. If I may ask a couple questions regarding retrofit;
1. Looks like you may have recycled the original screws for fastening? (grovers have small phillips and yours looks like original straights) if so, was this for proper fit or esthetic or both?
2. What were your tools of choice for any filing /reaming needed for posthole enlargement /adjustment? - granted I’ll be working with bakelite as opposed to metal, but just trying to get an idea of process. -my first gig at this and I'll take it slow and easy for sure.
Posted: 14 Mar 2007 12:07 pm
by Andy Sandoval
Pat, I used several round files. the posts on the new tuners are just a tad bigger than the originals so a few passes to the tuner holes on the headstock with the file fixed her right up then the holes for the tuner plate were just a hair to close together so you have to stretch the holes outward a little bit at a time until the screws will work. As you can see the tuner plates hide all the adjustments. As I've stated before I'm all for keeping an instrument in original condition but it boils down to keepin it original with tuners that have too much play and slack that's only good for hangin on a wall or havin one you can play that stays in tune. BTW, contact Rick Aiello if you need more details on this procedure, he's the man and very helpful.
Posted: 14 Mar 2007 6:43 pm
by Bill Creller
Pat, when you are working on your bakelite, be careful about chipping the edges of the holes when filing them larger, if that's necessary. What ever you do, DON"T USE A DRILL. It will definitely get you in trouble.
It take some patience to get it fitted, but well worth it.
I have repaired a few that were hacked up a bit.
BILL