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Topic: how to rout a pickup cavity?? |
TRAP TRULY
From:
Mobile , AL
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Posted 25 Mar 2005 9:41 pm |
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I need to rout a pickup cavity 1/2 inch deep on a 10 string lap i built.Would it work to make a square jig and run a straight bit inside of the jig to cut/clean out the cavity? Any suggestions or other ideas?
any help would be great,
trap |
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Larry Hicks
From:
Alabama, USA
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Posted 25 Mar 2005 11:39 pm
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Trap,
There are a bunch of ways to do this.
You can use a forstner bit in your drill press and clean up the sides with a sharp chisel. A forstner bit drills a nice, flat-bottomed hole. A great way to do "Tele" pickups.
Probably the best way is to use the following bit on your router
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=5411
Make sure you build your jig tall enough so that only the bearing touches the jig. Remember, it'll still leave round corners . . . i.e. a 1/2" bit will leave a 1/4" radius, a 3/4" bit will leave a 3/8" radius, blah blah blah.
G'luck,
Larry www.tonemarkspeakers.com
------------------
I. IV, V (and sometimes II & VI)
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Jon Moen
From:
Canada
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Posted 26 Mar 2005 12:04 am
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I had to route a cavity to correctly install a bridge. I think the same process would apply for a pickup. I did not have a pattern following bit at the time (one with a bearing at the top) so I used the base of the router inside a fence. I made the jig so large so I could line up the bridge with the fingerboard.
http://www3.telus.net/Triolian/images/RedLapSteel/110_1028s.JPG
If you want to see the whole job (bear in mind that none of the electronics worked):
http://www3.telus.net/Triolian/lapsteel.htm
Jon |
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Larry Hicks
From:
Alabama, USA
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Jon Moen
From:
Canada
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Posted 26 Mar 2005 8:57 am
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Larry,
The jig had to be as close to perfect as I could get it. The jig being that large allowed me to use clamps to hold everything in place as well as screws that went into the holes for the original pickup(not shown in the picture). You only get one chance with something like this.
Jon |
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TRAP TRULY
From:
Mobile , AL
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Posted 26 Mar 2005 1:28 pm
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thanks guys.That helps alot.
I also found this on the internet last night after looking through about 2 hrs.worth of sites. [url=http://members.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/routertutorialpg3(templates).htm]http://members.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/routertutorialpg3(templates).htm[/url]
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2005 3:23 pm
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Trap. If you are only going to cut out one PU hole then no need to go to the trouble of all the template stuff.
Mark off the hole with a very sharp pencil. Take a metal straight edge and clamp it to one side of the line and take a utility knife with a new blade in it and cut on the line. Do this for all four sides. This will score the edge and keep your cut from tearing the edge of the hole when you use the router. The above mention use of the forstner bit to hog out the excess in the middle of the hole is a good idea. I would add here that you can use a decent size drill bit and drill the corners of the cavity before you use the forstner bit. After you remove all you can with the bit, then measure the distance from the edge of the router bit to the edge of the router base. Clamp your metal straight edge down and use that as a guide for the router and just make the cut at the edges of the hole one at a time setting up the straight edge for a guide. You can use a straight piece of wood if you don't have a metal straight edge. You will get a very nice looking PU cavity hole without all the expense and hassle of making templates and such.
Worked for me. |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 27 Mar 2005 4:56 am
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I use a 5/8 guide bushing in the router base with simple templates, which can be made with 3/8 plywood, and clamped on the material to be routed. The offset of the bushing from the cutter has to be allowed for on the template, but it's not difficult to figure out.
BILL |
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