The Steel Guitar Forum Store 

Post new topic F#s to G# on push pull
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  F#s to G# on push pull
John Poston

 

From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 4:51 pm    
Reply with quote

Anyone doing this change on a P/P and how is it working out? I'm thinking of having someone add LKV with the change along with D# to E and wonder how the mechanics work out with that.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Jamie Lennon


From:
Nashville, TN
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 5:05 pm    
Reply with quote

I have a sho bud and basically all I done for the F# - G# was over the nylon tuner for my G lever till it reached G# !

For my Eb - E I had to add that pull via rod etc

Jamie
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Fred Amendola

 

From:
Lancaster, Pa.
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 5:21 pm    
Reply with quote

John,
I had that change on my push pull when I owned it. It was a very long travel. I had it on my RKR and I cannot imagine it on an up-lever. You might want to re-think its location.
Forumite Wayne Tyler had that on a push pull, and had a special longer bell crank to shorten the travel.
Just my two cents
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Doug Beaumier


From:
Northampton, MA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 5:26 pm    
Reply with quote

John, It's not so easy on a push-pull because of the longer travel. I think you need to add a cross-shaft and a bellcrank. Tommy Cass is the man you want to talk to.
_________________
My Site / My YouTube Channel
25 Songs C6 Lap Steel / 25 MORE Songs C6 Lap Steel / 16 Songs, C6, A6, B11 / 60 Popular Melodies E9 Pedal Steel
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Darvin Willhoite


From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 5:47 pm    
Reply with quote

I have the F# to G# change on the P/P that I have now and also had it on the one I sold a few months ago. It does require a lot of travel, but I was able to do it with standard bellcranks. It was a little tricky getting everything adjusted, but it works. I had it on my LKL.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Larry Behm


From:
Mt Angel, Or 97362
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 7:37 pm    
Reply with quote

I have both F#'s to G#, string one on a pedal with string 2 up to E and string 7 with string 2 up to E on RKL. The throws are long but who cares, the changes are worth it, it is a PP.

Larry Behm
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Justin Griffith


From:
Taylor, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 7:58 pm    
Reply with quote

Mine does it nicely. Fred nailed it about the VKL. I agree the travel
would be too long. A shorter bellcrank might be good as well as removing the allen head tuning screw in the endplate provided you dont lower the string.
Good luck. Feel free to Email if I can help any further.
Justin
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Michael Douchette


From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 8:54 pm    
Reply with quote

My P/P has it, and handles it well. I have it on RKL, pulls both F#'s up. The trick with string one is that the open tuning is where the drop tuning adjustment would be. The normal open tuning hole is useless. Not sure who did mine as it came that way when I got it. Dropping the 6th to F# is not an option as I use a wound 6th instead of a plain one, and the travel would be impossibly long.
_________________
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.

http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html

(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website

richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 10:02 pm    
Reply with quote

Michael,
I drop a wound sixth a full tone on my PP no problem,
I slaved the linkage to get better gearing.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Michael Douchette


From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 10:04 pm    
Reply with quote

Richard, that's good to know; I'd been told a P/P wasn't capable of that.
_________________
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.

http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html

(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website

Byron Walcher

 

From:
Ketchum, Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 4 Feb 2007 11:40 pm    
Reply with quote

Both of mine raise 1 and 7 to G#, the older guitar also lowers 6 to F#, all works great. Setup by Bryan Adams. I'm going to get the lower put on the other guitar as well if Bryan will give up the parts to do it.
Byron
_________________
74 Black Emmmons 8x8 Wood Necks, Georgeboard, '80 OMI Dobro, '64 Fender Pro Amp , "76 Vibrosonic Reverb
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Allan Thompson

 

From:
Scotland.
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2007 3:44 am    
Reply with quote

John,
The hole that the lower spring connects to is the hole to use for the raise on string one. Disconnect the spring as you do not lower the first string. Now the half tone raise on string two. If you have the lower half stop set up as per the Emmons factory you will have to disconnect it and use the 9th or some other string maybe the 7th as your half stop.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Stephen Gambrell

 

From:
Over there
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2007 5:19 am    
Reply with quote

I had the G/G# on the first string, and the 6th string lower, on my push-pull. Charles Reece set it up, and the trvel wasn't too long.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

Charles Dempsey


From:
Shongaloo, LA
Post  Posted 5 Feb 2007 8:20 am    
Reply with quote

I put that on my push/pull's RKL. Used a standard bellcrank and the rod goes to the lowest (closest to the changer axle) hole in the raise finger.

It works fine, but there's very little extra travel available, so don't use a spring between the collar and the swivel.

Charlie
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website

Chick Donner

 

From:
North Ridgeville, OH USA
Post  Posted 6 Feb 2007 2:02 pm    
Reply with quote

It's a change I've had for years, and there are ways to make the pull no longer than any other knee lever pull.Emaill off list if'n you want pictures and ideas.
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website


All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  

Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction,
steel guitars & accessories

www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

Please review our Forum Rules and Policies

Steel Guitar Forum LLC
PO Box 237
Mount Horeb, WI 53572 USA


Click Here to Send a Donation

Email admin@steelguitarforum.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for
Band-in-a-Box

by Jim Baron
HTTP