This thread went dormant, but I'd like to add a few things I was discussing with another tech a few days ago (and also re-state a few things for clarity)
First - here is Groove Tubes' current price list description of the "Made in USA" 6L6GE:
GT-6L6-GE- GT Exclusive Design
Exclusive GT design is an exact replica of the tube
used by Fender from the mid 50’s to late 60’s. High
(70%) USA content made from original GE materials
to original GE design formulas. Balance of
components and assembly in our partnered Chinese
factory
I removed the pricing so it was not mistaken for an advertisement. The description was changed just about the time Fender bought Groove Tubes last year as I recall. It has some US-made components but is "made in China".
Next:
The K-120's are rated at 100 watts continuous sine wave, which in my mind is high powered.
I thought they were high powered as well - but I looked up the specs last week and you are right about the "continuous" power rating - which is completely misleading and irrelevant. It's precisely the same specification as the D120/D130F -
100 watts continuous sine wave. NOT 100 watts RMS or music power, or anything relating to reality.
I don't generally use a signal generator and put a sine wave through my amps...and I'd venture a guess that most other guitar players don't either!
"Continuous" power is irrelevant and printing it in literature is misleading. To repeat - it is EXACTLY the same spec as the D120/D130F, which the designer has spent years trying to correct misconceptions about.
A sine wave is a smooth, single tone wave. It is a low-stress signal on a speaker, and on the D130/D120F it translates to *roughly* 60 watts of RMS power handling - which (without getting too complicated) is an average covering the various overtones a real musical instrument will push through the speaker (again, this is an intentionally simple explanation that is practical in nature, so I will not address any unnecessary "corrections").
That power-handling number also drops significantly if the signal is distorted. The total length of the sharp-edged, distorted waveforms is much longer than that of a sine wave. If you were to lay them out straight a MUCH longer line would be seen - and that length translates in general terms to power.
I hadn't looked at the "K" specs in years, but they're presented as improved - and that may well be true; construction may be more robust, better glues may be used, whatever - but it doesn't change the specs they publish, which clearly indicate the same ol' same ol'. And the same misconception exists (the Soldano website mentions the "K" as a "higher power" version of the "D120/130F".
Last - As mentioned earlier I'm well aware of high-fidelity tube systems - but they are NOT commonly used as guitar amps. Many of them WILL be "cleaner" sounding than a guitar amplifier, which normally uses less heavy-duty components than a high-grade audio amplifier. But a "hi-fi" tube amp is designed to be tonally neutral (not "coloring" the sound) and reproduce a wide frequency range on a relatively flat...or equal...level.
Which makes them, without modification, mostly terrible guitar (steel or otherwise) amplifiers. Tube guitar amps are *intended* to provide tonal color - just read the advertising literature, interviews, and posts on various boards - musical instrument amp designers have a particular focus: Fender's "tweed" tone" (mid-rich and round-sounding), blackface tone (cleaner but still warm and rich in overtones), silverface (cleaner still); Marshall's "crunch"; the "chime" of a Vox AC30; the brutal, edgy clean of a Hiwatt; the smooth, warm tones of old Gibsons; the saturated but articulate distortion of a Dumble Overdrive Special.
Line 6, Fender, Johnson and others have developed modeling amps that have "patches" to emulate the particular "signature" tonality of these and other popular amps. OTOH, a flat frequency response generally sounds terrible in many ways - the bass is too pronounced, the treble will scalp you, yet there is a "sterility" to the tone.
This is why GUITAR tube amps are used by 99.99% of the tube amp players - and also why they try different tubes (and tube combinations), different bias settings, change filter capacitor values (and other parts - especially in the preamp).
As mentioned before, nowadays, unlike 1965, tube amps are NOT plug 'n play. There are too many variations in tone (and even power) between tubes of the same type - changing the sound and requiring rebiasing of changed power tubes (and driver tube - always changed with the power tubes except in testing) every time a different set is installed. In the 60's specs were consistent between brands. Not now, where (again, repeating myself but driving home a point) non-audio tubes have been adapted for amp use, manufacturing techniques vary - resulting in different bias settings just about every time a tube set is changed (regardless of what Mesa Engineering says).
But to those who posted "it's too much trouble - I guess I'll just stick with solid-state": You are missing the point. With a tube amp you have far more opportunities to find *your* "signature" tone...and if not that, at least you can spend just a little time tweaking to obtain a tone you *really* like. There isn't the same flexibility with most solid-state amps, where "one size fits all". Knob twisting will not locate a unique tone - it simply adjusts the amp for playing conditions (room size, type of floor covering, size of crowd etc. I'm not saying SS amps are bad - but they ARE more limited.
Using a tube amp and learning how to properly operate, adjust and maintain it takes a certain level of commitment - so using one often depends on what type of player you are. You can be a monster of a player but never gig - so a SS amp might be fine, because it has the one tone you need; or you could be the same guy but like to play different styles of music - then a tube amp starts to look real enticing.
But to finish,, I'll circle back to rule #1 - if you buy a NEW tube amp, take it home and it just doesn't sound like you want it to, DO NOT RETURN IT. Hopefully you bought it from a store with a 30-day return policy - because you need to adjust the bias *immediately* to warm it up a bit, play it as much as possible for at least a couple of weeks so the speakers can break in (new speakers are usually awful and take time to "bloom"), then rebias again and find the "sweet spot". THEN you'll have an idea what the amp sounds like - because a new, out of the box amp usually sounds pretty bad. But just like learning to play guitar, you have to learn how to "play" the amp