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Posted: 26 Apr 2005 5:56 am
by Webb Kline
Pat, I tried the G#, but it seemed to have the samee effect as when you have a harmonic 3rd on the bottom of a guitar chord-it works once in a while, but is in the way most of the time.

Doesn't anyone know what Zane had in mind with the 11th?

Posted: 26 Apr 2005 6:20 am
by Dave Van Allen
I may be wrong, but I always thought the 11th string was a low E so's Tom B could match Don R's low Tele note's for comping....

Greg?

Posted: 26 Apr 2005 7:09 am
by Webb Kline
That's the only thing that has worked for me so far. It's a big drop, but it works.

Posted: 26 Apr 2005 8:11 pm
by B. Greg Jones
Dave, you just nailed it. It came to be so Tom could do the filles on "Act Naturally" when Don sang the harmony parts. My 11-stringers are all tuned to the low E.

Greg

Posted: 27 Apr 2005 6:34 am
by Dave Van Allen
Image

Posted: 27 Apr 2005 7:05 am
by Andrew Buhler
I have a question regarding half-stops on ZBs. I have a SD-10 refurbed by Billy Knowles--previously owned by the one and only Duncan Hodge. My 2nd string D# currently lowers a half step to D. The guitar is set up so I lower the 2nd string a half step and raise the 7th string F# a half step. If I increase the travel on the 2nd string will the yoke system allow for a half-stop feel once the 7th string tuning nut hits the endplate? How do you all set up your 2nd string lower?

The guitar is set up so nicely now that I never tinker with the turnbuckles, but it would be nice to have that full step lower on the second string. Much appreciated.

Posted: 27 Apr 2005 11:10 am
by Chuck McGill
I have the parts for the 12 string Andrew. Greg sent me enough pull rods to get going and
they look great. Looking forward to getting the 12 you found playing.

Posted: 27 Apr 2005 6:13 pm
by Duncan Hodge
Damn Andrew!
I wish it was me worrying about the same drop on the 2nd. I still kick myself for ever letting it go. Hope to see you at Derby Day in Croom, but I won't be bringing the ZB. This year it is cheaper to fly than drive.
Duncan

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 4:32 am
by Chris Rohde
Hello - I just bought a D10 ZB - any reccommendations on string gauges for both necks? Thanks

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 11:18 am
by richard burton
Andrew,
The yoke system favours
the easiest pull first.
To do what you want
you would have to
play around with helper
springs, and IMO it would
be very difficult to get
the seventh string half-
tone raise exactly at the
same time as the second
string is a half-tone
lower.
I put bell cranks on for
this duty, but instead of
raising the seventh, I
lower the ninth, and use
that action as my half-stop.
R B

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 11:22 am
by richard burton
PS Folks,
This seems the easiest
way to write a post, it saves
scrolling along to read them.
Just write four or five
words and press return.
R B

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 1:25 pm
by Larry Chung
Hey Chris:

Welcome to D-10 ZB-Land! I'd recommend one thing in particular - use a .016 instead of a .017 on the E9 neck (high B to C#). Helps immensely with the A and C pedals.

ZBest,
LC

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 3:57 pm
by Duncan Hodge
Welcome Chris. Congratulations on getting the ZB. If I ever offer you advice, don't listen. I'm probably the worst ZB player on this post.
Duncan

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 4:23 pm
by Duncan Hodge
Welcome Chris. Congratulations on getting the ZB. If I ever offer you advice, don't listen. I'm probably the worst ZB player on this post.
I also may be the worst poster on this post as evidenced by my duplication of my last post.
Duncan<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Duncan Hodge on 28 April 2005 at 05:24 PM.]</p></FONT>

Posted: 28 Apr 2005 7:31 pm
by Kevin Hatton
If you change string gauges you may have to re-equalize the turnbuckle for that particular string. I went through this when I went to an .0115 on the third string. I don't break third strings anymore.

Posted: 29 Apr 2005 2:05 pm
by Chris Rohde
Thanks for the advice all....Any thoughts on string gauges for C6 neck?

Posted: 29 Apr 2005 9:41 pm
by Joe Shelby
Anyone ever see what you might call the "anti-ZB?" This, to the best of my recollection, was a polished aluminum cabinet
D-10, probably 8&2. I saw this guitar in summer 1974, at Leo's Music in Oakland (CA),
when they were located on College Ave. It
looked as if it were all chrome-plated; very
striking.
It was being sold on consignment for Carlos
(aka Carco) Claveira (a forumite, I believe).
I have no recollection if this was a wood
cabinet guitar cloaked in aluminum or what...
I can only imagine the tuning anomalies of this particular horn. Anyone ever see it?

Posted: 2 May 2005 5:05 pm
by Duncan Hodge
Hey Guys,
I just completed a very successful reattachment and adjustment of my verticle knee lever on my ZB. It now works perfectly and even looks right. The amazing thing is that it only took about 30 minutes, with much advice from Greg Jones beforehand. I feel like Mr. Fixit. This may not be a big deal to most of you, but I usually have trouble unscrewing a jar of peanut butter. Just thought I'd share.
Duncan

Posted: 2 May 2005 8:10 pm
by Kevin Hatton
Duncan, thats great! I'll say this. I don't really think that you could be a happy owner of a ZB without knowing how to work on them. Not that they are a bad guitar, its just that when things need adjusting or fixing you'll feel much better knowing how to do it yourself without going into that panicking lost in the woods mode. ZB's are like owning a Studebacker. As long as they are setup and maintained they play well, and they do have idiosynchrosis that other guitars don't. I took the time over the last couple of years to familiarize myself with the mechanics and they don't scare me at all now. Lowering return spring adjustment is critical on strings four and eight. The fourth string can tend to return sharp in its too tight. Also, making sure that the strings are wrapped with enough wraps (4-5)especially on the sixth string I find this also critical on a ZB. I'm sure that you feel much more confident about your ZB now Duncan now that you took one of the mysteries out of fixing it.<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Kevin Hatton on 02 May 2005 at 09:19 PM.]</p></FONT><font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Kevin Hatton on 02 May 2005 at 09:58 PM.]</p></FONT>

Posted: 3 May 2005 2:35 am
by Chuck McGill
Duncan you the man. I am very impressed. Next
I want you to come to Jackson Tn and assist me with the 12str rebuild. I have put it off
as long as I can. I start today.

Posted: 3 May 2005 4:11 am
by Russ Tkac
I will say a prayer for you Chuck. I am in process of fixing a broken finger on my D11/10. Greg Jones and Billy Knowles have been very helpful with advice, information and parts. Billy was telling me last night that every time he finishes a ZB he says "never again!" By the way, Billy says he has a 66' D11/10 that he is suppose to rebuild for himself...and he can't even bring himself to do it. Too much work. Image

Russ

Posted: 3 May 2005 4:15 am
by Russ Tkac
Also... any thoughts about this? I'd say not an 84'

Russ
http://white.falcon.free.fr/84zb_1.html

Posted: 3 May 2005 8:39 am
by Kevin Hatton
Its a seventies guitar. If you could see the changer enplate or the serial number you could tell more.

Posted: 3 May 2005 9:23 am
by Gibson Hartwell
I just wanted to thank Kevin Hatton here on this thread. I just became a ZB player thanks to him. I bought his green D-10. What a gem!

This is a beautiful guitar and has been cared for with an incredible attention to detail. The guitar, cases, and Kevin's ability to answer questions about it are all fantastic. Packing was done with incredible care and evrything showed up without one scratch or ding. I wouldn't hestitate to recommend doing business with Kevin if anyone gets the chance.

Now the real adventure begins for me. This is my first pedal steel. I've been on non-pedals for a couple of years now and regular 'ol guitar for, ahem, quite a while.

Posted: 3 May 2005 10:28 am
by Andrew Buhler
Send me that 12 string, Chuck. I'll set her up but I may hang onto it for a while!

Actually, I was working on my SD-10 this weekend after the lower spring for the 2nd string lower finger broke. I removed the lower spring for the 1st string (I don't lower the high F#) and used that for the 2nd string lower. I also recalibrated my LKV that lowers the G#s a half tone. The most difficulty I've ever had is reattaching the pull rods that are connected underneath those cross strap puller things. The B pedal rods came loose and it was an absolute bear to get them reattached. I feel your pain, Chuck.

So does my local hardware store sell ZB lower springs? <font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Andrew Buhler on 03 May 2005 at 11:30 AM.]</p></FONT>