The Steel Guitar Forum

John, right on. The Triflo I bought,comes in a 2 oz bottle with the straw that you described. It goes on wet, and then dries up and makes that teflon film. I tried ONE drop on my finger. That one drop eventually flowed all over my finger, wet. Then, as time wore on that day, the oily substance dried and all that was left was a very slippery but dry finger.

Right Bent! It takes almost none to do the job, and it lasts a really long time, because it doesn't attract and hold grit and dust and grime. Like I said, "once a year" on my Kline. It's important that before applying it, every trace of previous lubricants be removed.

John, true. That's why I also bought the can of degreaser.
BTW, y'all likely know this but I tested that degreaser on a piece of wood that I had lacquered. It is nasty stuff...eats right into the lacquer and softens it up, destroys it.
So if you clean parts, make sure they are far away from the wood body!

Bent,
Lacquer is soluble! Definitely gotta be careful!

Bent,I would never use graphite.In 1979 I purchased my '68 Emmons from the original owner who only used graphite to lube it since new. As I learned more about it, I found that the fingers should move freely without strings on. None of the fingers moved freely on either neck. The cure was to take the changers out and soak them in gasoline then relube with light machine oil. When Tri-Flow came out in the early 80's I switched to it and have been happy with it ever since. My SKH has never seen anything else and both my Zums run on Tri-Flo.

When I got my new HYBRID I asked Bruce what to use. He lubes the changer with ATF and the other wear points with Tri-Flo when he builds them. He said to use the Tri-Flo liquid, not in the spray can. I found it in the bicycle dept of Wal-Mart. A drop on each finger and roller when the strings are off for replacement keeps everything running with a drop on undercarriage wear points once every 6 months or so.

Mickey, for what it's worth, I think you should make the forumites aware of any problems you know of on a guitar, amp or anything else that comes up for sale. Not to do so could make you an unwitting party to fraud. A realtor or homeowner who doesn't disclose problems they are aware of is liable for fraud and I think the same liability exists here. Besides, it's the right thing to do.

Duane

I’m not sure we are all talking about the same thing…

There are two major variations of Tri-Flow Teflon lubricant:
1. “Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant”. This is the most common version, found in most hardware stores. It goes on wet and the liquid solvent evaporates, leaving a slippery film of Teflon.
“Tri-Flow Superior Lubricant provides twice the lubricating power of most competitive brands. Its light viscosity allows for deep penetration into hard to reach moving parts.”
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superi ... _drip.html
I have used this “standard” Triflow on my steel and would use it again.

2. “Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant”. This version is typically found in bike shops.
“Tri-Flow Superior Dry Lubricant was specifically designed to lubricate like an oil and stay clean like a wax. Its exclusive formula includes paraffin wax and high grade petroleum oil which penetrates as it quickly sets up and dries, leaving a thin, visible, coating that repels water as it lubricates.”
http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Dry_Lubricant/dry.html
I would use this on my bicycle, but never, ever again on my steel guitar.

The wax was apparently added to the “dry” version sold in bike shops to prevent water and rain from removing the Teflon coating on your bike chain and other exposed parts. Since steel guitars are not normally played in the rain like your bike chain might go through, using the version with wax in it doesn't make sense to me. I do not understand why anyone would want to get wax into their steel guitar’s precision mechanism.
On the other hand, using “standard” Triflow (without the added wax) on a steel guitar makes a lot of sense.

I am not telling anyone what to do, or giving advice-- I am simply reporting a dreadful experience I had with Teflon “dry” lubricant that left a waxy buildup that jammed up the roller nuts and the changer.

But "it's a free country"—choose whatever lubricant makes you happy.

- Dave

Has anyone used the soy based wet and dry lube that
Home Depot now sells, in an effort to get us to go
green? I almost bought me a can but changed my mind
and decided to wait.
Would be interested to know what someone thinks of it
if they have used it.

Anyone try this? :

B-404 All-Purpose Lubricant

Tom’s Secret Formula Earth Friendly B-404 is a high performance
all-purpose lubricant.

Formulated with USA-grown, renewable natural vegetable oils and selective additives, made without chlorine or regulated toxins. B-404 clings to surfaces and does not evaporate, providing lubrication longer than conventional petroleum-based lubricants.

This product is designed for use in many applications including:

* Lubrication for moving parts
* Loosening rusted and frozen bolts and nuts
* Blocking moisture
* Preventing rust

=============================
3 variants:
- B-404
- Truckers' Lube
- Garage Door Lube


Website: http://www.tomssecretformula.com/products.htm

It's available in Canada at Canadian tire.

Bob, I'll check it out. But even though it does not evaporate, does it harden? Like white lithium grease; it does harden with time. I have seen it.

For many years being a Locksmith, I used powdered graphite like most others in the trade do/did.
Unfortunately it always made quite the mess with its black colouring especially if a little bit dropped onto a customers carpet!!!.

Quite a few years ago I "latched" onto a can of 3-in-1+ Silicone and was so amazed at its effect of lubricating all small parts mechanical I thought I'd try it on my Z.B's....I now offer it for sale to my customers.

Like many cans of various liquids they come with a little red 5" plastic tube to stick in the spray head.I sugest that this be cut in half giving you a spare, as it's a lot stronger to direct the spray exactly where it's needed, especially under all the various makes and configurations of all the mechanisms out there.

It's also good for lubricating steering/ignition system locks.

All Z.B.est.

Bob Mainwaring.

Bob at GFI tells me NOT to lubricate my GFI guitar...states that it is lubed with a special type of lifetime lubricant at the factory. Actually he states that lubricating it could wash out the "lifetime" factory lubricant and cause more damage than good. Just my two cents worth...

Attn:

Do NOT use anything with "vegetable oils" in them!!!

The Absolute best way to destroy a Changer, or anything else, except for cooking.

Most all motor oils are ok, or light machine oil. Am I talking from experience? Yep!

Just remember, "No Vegetable Oils" that is, unless your really cooking........

Just wanted to thank all of you who openly discussed lubing your steels on this thread. I've recently been plagued with some changes not returning true , my "Es" and 5th string. After reading the thread, I ordered some of the Tri-Flow http://www.triflowlubricants.com/Superi ... _drip.html And this afternoon broke down and did the dirty deed. This morning I picked up a quart of "Naphtha" at Lowes and this afternoon out on the patio in good light, I suspended an old towel under the changer, put paper towels around same, so the Nap wouldn't get anywhere I didn't want it and flushed out the old lub, what ever it was, took a while until the Nap ran through clear. Let it set for a couple hours then lubed it up with Tri-Flow.

All of the problems I was having and had been living with, are gone. Plays like a dream. My steel is not that old, but it must have been exposed to normal dust and not covered. Anyway thanks. Made my day and will make picking this Friday, a lot more fun.

Home made Nap applicator...

The best lubrication products I have found are made by Kano Laboratories in Nashville. Their Microil is the best oil for fine lubrication.

From their website http://www.kanolabs.com/

Precision Instrument Lubricant - Resists Gumming 
Super refined - precision instrument oil. For lubricating delicate bearings, gauges, meters, clocks, typewriters, guns, etc. Effective at -50 degrees F. Will not gum or congeal even after extended use. Resists evaporation, requires less frequent application.

They make a penetrating oil (Kroil) that my son the Millwright says they use by the gallon and my mechanic says it's the best he's ever used. Nothing will free a rusted part better and it's great for cleaning off gummed up parts from cheap oils.

I'm an old lap player that just got his first pedal steel and would not hesitate to use Microil on it.

Hey Mickey,

When are you going to write your PSG Maintenance guide to go along with your E9th course =) I think that would be an awesome supplement that I believe doesn't yet exist?

My .02 FWIW:

I spent 6 years in firearms industry and what I rely on is;

1. Cleaning-I use "non-chlorinated" brake cleaner spray-great stuff-dirt cheap and very effective.

2. Lube-I use "Break Free" from CLP industries.

YMMV
Regards

Rick

Re:Break Free

I used to use that lubricant when I was in the Canadian Military.(20 + years ago) I had forgotten all about it.

Website:
http://www.break-free.com/?location=/main.asp
==================================================
CLP-PS
Precision Shooter®

* Hypodermic-style applicator that delivers 7.5 ml of CLP
* Pinpoint accuracy to clean, lubricate and prevent rust in hard-to-reach-areas

http://www.break-free.com/?location=/global/new.asp

If it stays wet, it's going to hold any abrasive dust that it comes in contact with. I've held destroyed changers in my hands. A "wet" lube that holds dust and dirt means you're going to have to completely clean your guitar much more often too. Lubricants have come a long way in the last few decades. Dry Teflon lubes for me.

Bob L, Thanx for the link on Break Free-I have no idea how to do a link(and have no desire to know).

But I have been using it exclusively on all my firearms and many other applications for a number of years. I had a Bro inlaw that was in Nat Guard and he presented me with 2 gallons of it a few years back and can't see any reason to buy anything else.

As far as the brake cleaner, I had way too many gunsmiths advise me on that product. You have to make sure that it's "non-chlorinated" though. Works wonders on cleaning gummed up actions...spray/saturate to flush out offending particulates and let it evaporate, wipe and lube.

Regards

Rick

I don't know what it's made of. But I've used trumpet valve oil. It is a very light oil and probably does'nt do as well as other oils. I don't know, maybe someone else on here has used valve oil and knows more about it.

I use Lucas gun oil.
Jerry

This has really become an educational thread...I must say. I have been toying with the idea of putting together a series on tearing down a Mullen Guitar for starters..!...Thanks to all of you for your input./..A lot of great ideas here!!!..

Got another one done yesterday. Flushed the changer out with Naptha, then applied Tri-Flow. Annoying tuning issues gone.

The cleaning and or flush is the key. After that a good lube, like those mentioned, will work.

Thanks to my great friend Dick. He came over yesterday with all of the necessities in hand and with the care of a surgeon prepped my guitar for it's cleansing. It wasn't that dirty, but I feel better knowing that what was in there is out and now it's lubed with Tri-Flo.
Thanks again Dick! I appreciate it! ( some ribs and a few Coronas go a long way out here in the country!)

Is it necessary to remove the strings before flushing or not?? I have fairly new Jags on now. Jack