The Steel Guitar Forum

Mike -- all that looks really good. I like the red with the white fretboards.

I saw the ZB S-10 made from the D-10 but don't see the 2nd ZB.

Would you have a Spare finger cap? I just need the one to complete ZB D-10.

any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Francis Pavy

Wow Mike - what a beautiful cabinet you built for that S-10!!!
Keep them old ZB's makin' music

I'm about to have replacement fretboards made for ZB steels. It appears that during the years Zane built ZB guitars in Phoenix, he chose a high-gloss surface for some of his boards. Back in those early years of steel guitar building, most all brands printed their boards with high-gloss surface finish paint. That was a mistake for players who performed under bright stage lights. The reflection proved to be a blinding annoyance. Manufacturers quickly changed to a non-glare finish.

I can only provide non-glare or high-gloss for the fretboards I produce. So, I'd appreciate knowing what finish ZB owners prefer for their ZB replacement fretboards. Post here or contact me directly: tommybradshaw@gmail.com

Tom,

Thank you for the choice; I'm in favor of the non-glare version.

Tom

I'll have two models of ZB fretboards made; the black background and the "white" background. I have the actual boards to copy those colors. My concern is the color of the "white" background board. The one I have is in great shape. The color is cream, but where it slips under the nut roller-block, the color is nearly white, which is surely what the color of the board was when it was new. I'm wondering if I should select that original color or go with the "aged" white (?).

Years ago I needed to refinish an old chipped and tarnished Fender 400. It had a cream color paint on it. But when I removed the hardware, the color under all that hardware was nearly a pure white. I chose to repaint it in its original white color. Every person who saw the guitar asked me why I changed the color. I fear that if I change the color I'll get the same complaint because the new white boards won't look like the aged "white" ZB boards as they are today. What are ZB owner's thoughts about this? ...Tom

Tom —I understand your concern. Bear in mind that if you make the fretboards cream colored to simulate
Aged plastic from UV light, they will further darken yellow over time.

It’s a catch 22, you want to make them look like they will fit with original paint, but then again everything
ages and yellows more over time.

I would make them original color., to put my two cents in.

But it’s your operation.

My fretboards are in pretty good condition, they are pretty white compared to the paint, and the
Small portion that fit under the roller nut is the same color as the fretboard. My ZB was
Built in Arkansas 1967 and seems to have a high gloss to the board. Also the red is
Out of alignment.

Are you making the decals? I’ll need that eventually.

Posting this also on the forum.

FXP

Are you certain about the color under the nut roller-block edge? The board I have is obviously not pure white under there. I'd say it is a much lighter cream. Perhaps I should shoot for that. Would that be a reasonable compromise and not prove to be a rejection (as with the Fender 400)?

Incidentally, I intend to correct all of the out-of-alignment printing on the boards. Other than fret 3 on the cream board, there is something askew on every logo/symbol on both the black and "white" background images. The more I look at them, the more annoyed I get (I obviously need an "Anger Management" class!

Your thoughts (and other's thoughts)? ...Tom

Tom Bradshaw wrote:Are you certain about the color under the nut roller-block edge? The board I have is obviously not pure white under there. I'd say it is a much lighter cream. Perhaps I should shoot for that. Would that be a reasonable compromise and not prove to be a rejection (as with the Fender 400)?

Incidentally, I intend to correct all of the out-of-alignment printing on the boards. Other than fret 3 on the cream board, there is something askew on every logo/symbol on both the black and "white" background images. The more I look at them, the more annoyed I get (I obviously need an "Anger Management" class!

Your thoughts (and other's thoughts)? ...Tom

Tom - I think the light cream color would be best for the white boards. I think it will blend in with most color schemes.

Just my 2 cents...

Two cents is better than no "sense" at all. ...Tom

Here's a pic of my old ZB (sold it a couple years ago).
It has white fret-boards, white pickups & white switch caps. And they're all different shades of white
I would go with a very light cream or white. Non-glare for sure!
Thanks for doing it Tom!

I now offer ZB fretboards to owners of these older pedal steels. They will soon be listed and pictured on my website. The price is the same as all my other boards ($33.00). The boards are available in two background colors: black or cream.

Although the "cream-colored" boards on ZB guitars were originally white, most aged over the years to a cream or even a nearly orange coloring. I was encouraged by ZB owners to offer a compromise. Therefore, that model comes in a slightly cream-colored background. ...Tom (tommybradshaw@gmail.com)

Nice!
Just finished rebuilding this student model and am adding knees to see if I can make a lighter (than my ZB D-11) rig. The pickup went completely microphonic so I am waiting on a white, coil tapped, replacement from Scott at Steeltronics.


I think a white pickup and fretboard is going to look pretty nice on the Red plastic body. Just looked on your website Tom and don't see the ZB fretboards up yet. Let me know how I can purchase one.

Just contact me at tommybradshaw@gmail.com and I'll explain what to do. I'ts easy. ...Tom

Thanks Tom! Got some time the other day to work on a personal ZB Custom project. Your new white fretboard looks great with the new white pickup from Scott at Steeltronics!
Sounds good too.

Nice looking Patrick!
I like the white ZB fret-boards.
I bet it weighs less than the D-11

With all those changes, does it even sound like a ZB?
Erv

Ha! Much lighter than the D-11
Unfortunately, doesn't sound exactly like the D-11, but does sound good! The finger caps are made from 302 SS just like the regular ZB Custom. The coil tap that Scott added was for 15% lower impedance, so it winds up being a little thinner and brighter. Gets into the fender 400 zone, but not quite. Dialing in the signal path in the studio now before I add some more knees...Good old school sound!

I have never heard the Zane Beck student model album, so I don't know how different it may sound from Zane's model with black pickup and black fretboard.

Here's a link to Zane Beck playing the student model:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com//viewto ... t=#2847286

Thanks for posting that link Bart.
Yup, sounds like the student model Zane is playing on the sample track. Lot's of top end and sustain. Was just playing along with it, just not as well....
I zoomed into the album cover and it looks like Zane is playing an 11 string model. Was that an option, or just a one-off he made for himself?

I've seen quite a few ZB Student models for sale, and never an 11 string. Good eye Patrick!

Here's my mid 70's D-10, serial 0633, which I bought last year. I've recently had a Day to Emmons conversion done and a bit of a clean and service - it's playing really nicely on both necks and I'm hoping to gig with it it the near future

Boy, that is a beaut' Jonathan!

Hi all.

New to the forum and new to pedal steel. Based in Ireland.

I recently bought my first psg - a ZB Custom S10, serial #0310.

I have 2 questions that I'm hoping you guys can help me with:

1. The original pickup was replaced as being faulty by the last owner. He gave me the original as part of the deal and I was pretty quickly able to find the problem - a simple break in one of the external wires. So now I'm going to have a go at putting the original pickup back. Just one problem - no mounting screws. I think what I need is something similar to a P90 screw - long (about 2") and thin. Does anyone know where I can obtain 4 of these - or maybe one of you has some to trade .

2. I'm having real problems with my F (LKL) lever. It's set up to raise the #4 and #8 strings by a semitone. Trouble is, I can't get the #4 string to bend enough and anytime I use the lever, neither string goes back into tune. I'm thinking of doing a full strip-down and rebuild but I'm not sure where to start. Any words of advice?

Thanks guys,
Neil.

The 4th string usually has 3 tuning screws at the end plate: lower to Eb / raise to F / raise to F#.
The raise to F is "usually" done with another pull rod.
How is yours set up?

That guitar is setup wrong. First thing, on the three cross straps move the center mounting screw one hole up closer to the front of the guitar to the top hole. The pedal will work a lot easier. Also, the trees on 1,2, & 3 are in the wrong holes.