Ricky Davis,
I have been thinking about your suggestion about leaving the green paint underneath, and you are right that it shows what this steel actually is. I spent some time trying to clean it up so it looks better, and it caame out pretty good. Seeing that I did make changes on this thing, there is no mistaking the what and when of it if you turn it over...
I am now putting it back together and have found that a lot of the pieces underneath were actually painted, but I am going to wire wheel them and shine them up some.
Joe Romanchick wrote:John,
I used Mohawk Classic Instrument lacquer clear gloss. It is pretty good stuff and it sprays nice. No thinning. After you get a few good coats on, then wet sand and some more spraying until it seems satisfactory to you. Final is light sand with Ultra Fine color sandpaper. Then I hand rubbed it with Turtle Wax Compound which is pretty coarse and machine polishing is too aggressive which I tried. After that you use Meguiars Mirror Glaze put on with a machine and a very fine foam pad. This is a typical lacquer job.
Ok so that is nitrocellulose. Easy to make good mistakes from what I hear. But bad for the brain cell unless using a good respirator
Joe Romanchick wrote:John,
I used Mohawk Classic Instrument lacquer clear gloss. It is pretty good stuff and it sprays nice. No thinning. After you get a few good coats on, then wet sand and some more spraying until it seems satisfactory to you. Final is light sand with Ultra Fine color sandpaper. Then I hand rubbed it with Turtle Wax Compound which is pretty coarse and machine polishing is too aggressive which I tried. After that you use Meguiars Mirror Glaze put on with a machine and a very fine foam pad. This is a typical lacquer job.
Ok so that is nitrocellulose. Easy to make good mistakes from what I hear. But but for the brain cell unless using a good respirator
Awesome Joe; Good'on ya. Yeah that was a weird time when they were painting the metal with a metal color..ha....sounds just like shobud would do to not have to polish anything...ah..ha....and yes that crap comes of fairly easy and the metal underneath can be polished pretty good...as you know; a lot of work but is WELL DESERVED.
Go to it bro.
Ricky
I have been making progress and I got the changers, and necks mounted as well as the new fretboards. The pickups are mounted with new wiring. Starting to look like steel guitar.....
On the underside I mounted most of the parts and added a fourth knee lever. The rods are put in just to make sure everything lines up. All the lower parts were gone over with a wire wheel and it looks nice and clean now. I removed an enormous amount of play in the mechanism and spent much time on getting everything nice and smooth and working freely. The setup will be standard Emmons................
Just AWESOME work Joe. Another thing I do on Racks; since the lowering rack is NEVER used on first 3 pedals; I take them off; to cut down on rack noise and less metal. Also I take off any raise spring on Fingers that lower; as it inhibits the lowering of fingers that lower a whole tone for sure; but even lowering a half; as it not that needed for the raise part of that finger. Any finger that JUST raises and doesn't lower; I always tighten lower/return spring almost all the way; as you are NOT lowering and the tighter that is; the BETTER and more positive of the raise sections moves.
I LOVE the BOTH left knee lever brackets, closer to back apron...good on ya bro.
Ricky
Looking at the picture, the knee lever on the far right (LKL)was there, I just repositioned it and the one next to it (LKR) was made up from some parts. I was a machinist once. Welding and silver soldering are no problem. I did want them closer to the rear apron, and have some thoughts about the other two also, and would like them closer also, but I will wait until it is fully back together to see if there is room to do it, or if I want more work. Although you give some good info, at this point I just want it back together........
I really can't play this thing but will fool with it some. I did have others some years back and do know what I would like. I like making and repairing, but at my age, I seem to lose ambition rapidly. I do have two more machines that need work, but I think I am just going to try and play a song with this thing before I get into the others. I do have music and tabs and instuction from before. I think I even have the Sho-Bud books. Anyway, it has been a pleasure having your input, as well as any other comments............
Well, it is done,sort of. I did not string the C6 neck yet because I need to order some more barrels, I thought I had enough but some of the changes I made used up more than I figured. It still needs to be regulated and then I will see if anything else needs changing. It is not perfect, but I think a pretty good Sho-Bud. It was quite a bit if work and many changes from my original thoughts, but I am happy with it.
I also want to thank everyone for the wonderful comments, as they are appreciated. It keeps me going, and I do have another steel restore to do, but may take a break for now because at 78, I just can't keep up the stamina I once had, and right now my back hurts............
Ricky Davis,
If you are seeing this, I need you to play it so I can hear what it sounds like!
Joe
Ricky Davis wrote:I would love to play it Joe, but I live in Texas, that's a long ways away from you.....lol
Looks wonderful bro, great work.
Ricky
I knew you were not close, just thought I would throw that in. When I had the other steels I was trying to learn some songs and I will just start again. It is easier to try to play than to restore. After I fool with it for a while, I am going to try some of the things you suggested to me about setting up. Thanks for your help and suggestions......
Joe
When I had the other steels I was trying to learn some songs and I will just start again. It is easier to try to play than to restore. After I fool with it for a while, I am going to try some of the things you suggested to me about setting up. Thanks for your help and suggestions
Oh you're Mighty Welcome my Brother; Play On!!!
Ricky
Ricky Davis wrote:Oh Joe I've been a huge "Mothers" fan now going on 28 years of use for final aluminum polish...yeehaaaa...
Ricky
Same here. Fantastic product!
Tony
Newnan, GA
Too many guitars, not enough time to play
'72 Sho-Bud 6139 '71 Sho-Bud 6140
'82 Sho-Bud 6160 '73 Sho-Bud 6138
'71 Marlen 210
'78 Fender Stringmaster T8 black '70??? Fender Champ Lap Steel
WOW, Amazing Work. It has turned out BEAUTIFUL. And when you consider you are 78 years old even more so. You are still a great CRAFTSMAN. Enjoy your guitar and make some MUSIC. J.R.
Black Performance SD-10, 2002. Peavey LTD 400 with 15" Eminence EPS 15-C, Sho-Bud Seat, Goodrich L-120 Pedal, Sho-Bud Bar, Picks, Cords. Nothing else.
Just awesome! I love the two-tone, looks better than new!
Dana Blodgett
From Los Osos,Ca.
'74 ShoBud 6140 3+4, Martins HD28,D-12-28, D-15,'65 Gibson LG-1, '77 Gibson Les Paul special dbl cut p-90's, Les Paul Special p-100's,Les paul Special Hybrid(maple top) hbkr's,'68 Fender Strat reissue, Fender Squire Jazz bass,Epi mandolin,Epi Wilshire '66 reissue, Kamaka Concert uke, 70's Kamaka Soprano Uke, Fender Super amp, Ampeg ba112 bass amp,60's harmony banjo,'00 Gibson SG Supreme
Ken Pippus wrote:Looks way better than new. Very pretty, and probably my favorite two-tone.
Shouldn’t that have teardrop knee levers?
You are correct. I could not find 4 levers that it would need, so I did the next best thing and found 2 that would at least match what was there so it looked uniform.
