Split Tuning

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

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Mike Perlowin
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Post by Mike Perlowin »

I am under the impression that it can't be done.
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Mike Holder
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Post by Mike Holder »

Looks to me as if your Franklin has a couple tuning screws for splits Jack Stoner. The other good split on E9th is string 4 going up a tone with the C pedal fo F#, you can get a split F note lowering the E with it, many Hal Rugg licks using that!
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George Geisser
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Post by George Geisser »

Image I too am intrigued by the subject of Splits. The picture shows my retro fixing of my favorite guitar. With a hand drill, no jig just eyeballed and a "Hail Mary" I drilled and tapped holes and used 1/8" all tread slotted with a dremel. I would not suggest this and quit while I was ahead.
Image You can see the all thread in the picture looking down on the changer! For the observant, yes that is a ZUM. I had splits on all but 4 strings on my BMI and all were in tune w/o split rods and had to find a way to incorporate on my show steel but no one else would have attempted with out pulling the end plate off the guitar. I guess I'm a little impulsive, but I got her done. To answer the push-pull split question, it hasn't been done because push pulls are "raise dominant" meaning if you raise a string it doesn't matter that you lower it because it only recognizes the Raise. The end result is that it takes 3 levers to get four notes as opposed to 4 notes with just two levers on your "All Pull" guitar.
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Mike Perlowin
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Post by Mike Perlowin »

The new MSAs have split screws on every string.(I assume others do too.) While this may be overkill, it's better to have them and not need them, than to need them and not have them.
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Al Evans
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Post by Al Evans »

As I see it, you have a choice between a dedicated split screw on some or all changer fingers, or a dedicated raise on the changer finger (plus a pull train) for each split.

My Mullen has split screws, my Zum Encore has extra pull rods (and my MSA has neither, which somehow manages to be just fine). Of the two, I think I would prefer to have an extra raise hole for each string over the split screws,

The split screws limit ALL movement of the finger. Real-world example -- you're lowering the B strings 1/2 step on a vertical knee lever. You split with the A pedal so they lower 1/2 step from C#, too. Now you add a Franklin pedal, and you need to lower them a full step for that. Oops, your lower is limited to 1/2 step. (I just about went crazy before I figured that out!)

But this works fine on my Zum Encore, which has extra rods for its splits.

And in places where you don't need a split, you might be able to find a another use for an extra raise on the changer....

--Al Evans
2018 MSA Legend, 2018 ZumSteel Encore, 2015 Mullen G2, G&L S-500, G&L ASAT, G&L LB-100, Godin A4 Fretless, Kinscherff High Noon
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Henry Matthews
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Post by Henry Matthews »

Image Push pulls can have splits. Both mine have a split on 6th string however, it works a little different because it uses the A pedal to bring back a half tone instead of B pedal and you can’t get that minor that you can get on an all pull because A pedal has to be engaged to pull 6th back half tone since raises dominate lower on a push pull. I use it to get that pretty 7th chord you hear in a lot of Tom Brumley stuff.
You will need an extra bell crank and one of those little tuners that go on rod like on 4th string E to F raise. The bell crank goes on A pedal cross shaft. On Day setup, you will need a longer pull rod.
Picture is split on Emmons set up.
Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
George Geisser
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Post by George Geisser »

Thanks Henry Mathews for the clarification on splits on Push Pulls. I stand corrected and now regret not buying the 12 string Emmons PP UNI I seen years ago.
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Ken Byng
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Post by Ken Byng »

Thanks Henry - that seems a straight forward mod. Bobbe Seymour used to boast that he knew how to put a workable split on a push pull, but when I asked him how he did it he was evasive for the first time that I'd known him. :lol: You've cracked it with an elementary solution. A tip of the hat to you buddy.
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Ken Byng
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Post by Ken Byng »

Our own Richard Burton from the UK put a post on here back in 2014, so he's been at splits for quite a while.

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=259085
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Infinity SD10 (4+5) Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E,
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Henry Matthews
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Post by Henry Matthews »

It’s fairley simple, just another bell crank on A pedal cross shaft with a screw tunes like E raise on lever.use the A pedal to pull G# back a half tone with A pedal and tune with little tuner. It doesn’t affect A pedal pull at all but just doesnt get the minor.all and works quite well but you can’t bring it back half tone without A pedal. The A pedal is usually used on that pull anyway, unless you want the minor but othe
Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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