The Steel Guitar Forum

Hi Jeffrey,

As far as tuning goes, the first (top) string is fixed on E. So is the 4th . The two bottom strings are fixed and probably an after thought. The changer was probably conceived for a 6 string guitar in the 1930s. The player would have to make the choice for the lower strings 7 and 8.

The changer is designed to be set up and tuned with the levers all the way Left (toward the head). In this position the strings are tuned E (top) B and G, using the tuners at the head. The great thing is that the notes are marked on the plastic level track.

Next we move the two levers to centre position and tune the movable strings (235 and 6) to G# and C, with the set screws, as indicated on the plastic track. Do the same thing with the levers all the way Right, where they are A and C#. Sounds complicated but its not.

While the shift bars have noticeable travel, the actual movement of the strings is miniscule. When in tune the levers Right gives an A chord. Drop the A to G# and you have E, C# G# or C#minor. Drop the C# string to B, and you have E, B, G# or an E chord. Other combinations are obscure. Let me know if you find any usable.

As long as the fixed strings of the upper six are E, and you tune as indicated on the plastic gizmo, starting with GBE, you cannot go wrong.

The height of the action is 8mm at the top of the fret board. And 5mm at the nut. The nut roller is slightly higher than the “nut.”

A set of C6-A6th strings will do. The gauges are on John Ely's site, below.

All that being said, I have the guitar tuned to A6th with the 4th string on F#. This gives me the partials mentioned in my first post. Straight A, C#minor and Emajor are somewhat anachronistic tunings. Ideas like the Pacific String Master were tried and never caught on. The pedal-steel and multi neck guitars were more practical in the end.

If you don't want an original guitar, you could simple put a round head screw at the tail end to stop the cover sliding off and getting broken again. Next thing we have to do is trace David Ferrier, who registered the design. I expect there is an adv. for this guitar in some old publication.

https://hawaiiansteel.com/tunings/my_tunings.php

Thanks again David, I’ll follow your instructions when I get it cleaned up further, repair the bridge cover & secure it.
I checked Ancestry & found several references to David John Ferrier in electoral rolls. I’ll keep at that as well.
By joining the FB group Vintage Guitars Australia I had a response from a guy who strongly believes he had & disposed of this guitar around 20 yrs ago. It had the aluminium head structure but he hasn’t said whether it had a nut at that time. He passed it on because he couldn’t get his “head around it”.

The guitar came with 6 strings, but tuner 1 leads to string 6 not 8.

Wow, this is really interesting. A mate's dad has just passed away and he has inherited a StringMaster just like the one being discussed here. It's in pretty good shape except the bakelite cover is a bit broken. Henry doesn't want to learn to play it, what do you suggest we do with it?

The bakelite covers are often found broken. The are vulnerable to falling off when carrying the instrument. they need a keeper screw. The best repair is to fiberglass the inside of the cover. When doing so, note that the two sides are canted inward slightly, to create a hold on the tuning assembly.

G’day Phill,
It is difficult to advise because there isn’t a trail of previous sales to go by. I don’t know what the SGF policy on valuations is, if indeed there is one. You could ask for expressions of interest or personal message David Matzenik, he has/had been custodian of one for many years and was very helpful to me when I was wrestling with tuning the key change sliders.
The bakelite repair David mentions is what I did with mine. I used the lightest weight woven fibreglass tape I could find rather than course loose chopped material. I plan to partially screw in a discreet chrome plated screw to hold the bakelite cover
Subsequent to me posting back in 2020 I came across a fellow who had one for sale for $1750(?). I don’t recall where it was advertised, perhaps Gumtree or FaceBook Marketplace. I contacted him hoping for pictures of the nut & head of his guitar as mine is quite different to his & yours. Nothing came of it and my project to restore mine has stalled. If you are prepared to, I would appreciate close up pics of your nut & head, perhaps remove the flat tone bar tucked under the strings at the nut.
All the best,
Jeff.

The best thing one could do with that guitar is to take it apart and clean it thoroughly, taking care not to damage logo decal which is quite fragile. However, even with new strings, the guitar will not have much sustain due to the strings being suspended from above.