Threading 3/32" Diameter rods
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- Erv Niehaus
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Yes go slow and use cutting oil on the tap or die.
When cutting threads with a tap or die only turn the tap or die about 1/2 a turn, Then back the tap or die back till you feel a little tight place and then smooth out. What you are doing is breaking the shavings up. If you do not break the shavings of metal up, They will fill up the openings in the tap or die and it can either, Tear up the threads on lock the tap or die and something may break.
This is one of the first things taught in machinist school about cutting threads with a tap or die.
When cutting threads with a tap or die only turn the tap or die about 1/2 a turn, Then back the tap or die back till you feel a little tight place and then smooth out. What you are doing is breaking the shavings up. If you do not break the shavings of metal up, They will fill up the openings in the tap or die and it can either, Tear up the threads on lock the tap or die and something may break.
This is one of the first things taught in machinist school about cutting threads with a tap or die.
Thank you!Chris Reesor wrote:Grind a bevel on the end of the rod you are about to thread.
Then fix it firmly in a vise with out too much protrusion or you may bend the end of the rod. I use my nylon jaw Panavise; to get a good non slip grip I fold a strip of fine emery cloth over the rod. This won't mar the rod much if at all.
Start with the correct side of the die; you'll see a conical "entry" ground away from the threads inside the die.
Use RapidTap or equivalent cutting fluid. Keep it wet.
Don't worry if the die is slightly cocked as it starts, it will straighten itself out when it is fully engaged in the cut.
Cut a full turn, then back off a half turn, and repeat until the thread is as long as you need.
It is pretty easy with the right stuff and a little practice.
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4-40 is what my Desert Rose uses for .109 rods.
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+1 on the DuBro rods. I bought some online at Advantage Hobby some years ago. Easy and cheap. They are 0.915" diameter and have 3/4" of rolled 4-40 thread on one end. I cut off about half of the thread so the threads don't bind on the changer hole. It's easy to cut them using one of those cheap wire stripper/bolt cutter tools. The rods are made from "redrawn galvanized 1050 steel" according to someone at DuBro. The alloy seems to be less brittle than stainless, which is good when making rods for a Carter. The rods tolerate the tight Carter hook bend well. On my two Carters, several of the factory-original stainless rods have broken at the hook end.
Based on advice I read somewhere on the SGF, I don't tap my nylon tuning nuts. I just thread them onto the rod. I do put a bit of grease on the thread for smoother tuning.
Based on advice I read somewhere on the SGF, I don't tap my nylon tuning nuts. I just thread them onto the rod. I do put a bit of grease on the thread for smoother tuning.
Surely a misprint.Bruce Derr wrote:They are 0.915" diameter
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The dies that have an adjusting screw, Only holds the die open, And MUST be used in a regular die stock that has a set screw to tighten on the die, So the die will not open up when pressure of cutting threads on the rod, That will allow the die open up and not make a good full thread.
Between owning 2 MSA Classics with 1/8" rods, 2 GFI Ultras with 3/32" rods and a friend who owns and works on Emmons steels I have obtained 6-40 die for MSA 1/8" rods, 5-40 for Emmons 7/64" and 4-40 for my 2 GFI Ultra's 3/32" rods.
It is very important to have the proper size nylon nut also, There is actually 3 measurements needed for a proper fit. If the order is not sent to the Manufacture of the steel.
Length, Depth of hole and diameter of rod used.
I have bought 3/16 nylon hex from US plastic and made tuning nuts on my lathe. You must have a lathe to make tuning nuts from stock.
If you have small hole tuning nuts, They can be opened up with a drill and proper size drill bit. You can not make tuning nuts with just a drill from rod stock.
A forum member tried to make tuning nuts from stock with just a drill. He ended up mailing them to me and I drilled them on a lathe and send them back.
Between owning 2 MSA Classics with 1/8" rods, 2 GFI Ultras with 3/32" rods and a friend who owns and works on Emmons steels I have obtained 6-40 die for MSA 1/8" rods, 5-40 for Emmons 7/64" and 4-40 for my 2 GFI Ultra's 3/32" rods.
It is very important to have the proper size nylon nut also, There is actually 3 measurements needed for a proper fit. If the order is not sent to the Manufacture of the steel.
Length, Depth of hole and diameter of rod used.
I have bought 3/16 nylon hex from US plastic and made tuning nuts on my lathe. You must have a lathe to make tuning nuts from stock.
If you have small hole tuning nuts, They can be opened up with a drill and proper size drill bit. You can not make tuning nuts with just a drill from rod stock.
A forum member tried to make tuning nuts from stock with just a drill. He ended up mailing them to me and I drilled them on a lathe and send them back.
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ROTFL!John Hyland wrote:But more likely to bendBruce Derr wrote:A lot more common than 0.915"!John Hyland wrote:So is 3/32 a common rod diameter?
Seriously...
3/32" is 0.09375".
7/64" is 0.109375", usually called 0.109".
The difference is substantial. I believe that both are used by various steel guitar builders.
0.915" is almost an inch. Pretty hard to bend.
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https://www.dubro.com/products/4-40-thr ... 2-mm-6-pkgJohn Hyland wrote:The reason I asked is I’m trying to source rods and 1/8 is all I can find locally. Hobby Shops that I have found only sell short lengths.
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Interesting the thread is larger than the shaftb0b wrote:https://www.dubro.com/products/4-40-thr ... 2-mm-6-pkgJohn Hyland wrote:The reason I asked is I’m trying to source rods and 1/8 is all I can find locally. Hobby Shops that I have found only sell short lengths.
I don't like the metric system. Neither did Napoleon, who apparently signed off on it without reading it properly.
But it has its virtues - the rods on my Excel are 2.5mm* and the correct die is M2.5
Tough to get that wrong
* approx. 25/256"
But it has its virtues - the rods on my Excel are 2.5mm* and the correct die is M2.5
Tough to get that wrong
* approx. 25/256"
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
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Thread dia.
Yes, that is because it is a rolled thread I believe. They get the advantage of a thread size while saving weight on the rod diameter. Unfortunately, I don't believe it is cost effective for the home workshop to have the proper tooling.John Hyland wrote:Interesting the thread is larger than the shaftb0b wrote:https://www.dubro.com/products/4-40-thr ... 2-mm-6-pkgJohn Hyland wrote:The reason I asked is I’m trying to source rods and 1/8 is all I can find locally. Hobby Shops that I have found only sell short lengths.
LaVern
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- Michael Yahl
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After 10 years in business and offering all of the pull rods to cover all of the builders, I don't understand why this topic still comes up.
It will cost y'all 3 times as much to make your own rods than purchasing them from my website.
My rods are accurate to industry standards and checked with GO-NOGO thread ring gauges. I guarantee that my rods are good without the guess work or hassle.
I don't mean to offend anyone but I've even posted the exact sizes and tolerances straight from the Machinist's Handbook which is the bible for all things machined for over 106 years and now in its 31st Edition.
Granted I occasionally run out of stock but I try to get them refilled as quickly as possible.
You can find whatever you need here https://www.psgparts.com/Pull-Rods_c18.htm
Thanks
Michael
It will cost y'all 3 times as much to make your own rods than purchasing them from my website.
My rods are accurate to industry standards and checked with GO-NOGO thread ring gauges. I guarantee that my rods are good without the guess work or hassle.
I don't mean to offend anyone but I've even posted the exact sizes and tolerances straight from the Machinist's Handbook which is the bible for all things machined for over 106 years and now in its 31st Edition.
Granted I occasionally run out of stock but I try to get them refilled as quickly as possible.
You can find whatever you need here https://www.psgparts.com/Pull-Rods_c18.htm
Thanks
Michael
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '74 MSA Classic D12, Fender 2000
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'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '74 MSA Classic D12, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/