George L Cables

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 28 Jun 2017 6:54 am

Quote (Jim Sliff): "That is absolutely wrong!"

The "edge" of the cap/end/nut/top piece/whatever that I was referring to is the edge on the threaded end of the piece that screws in to the main plug piece, not the end that you grip with your fingers.

Hopefully anyone trying to assemble these, holding the pieces in their hands, would be able to figure this out.

Now, if the end of the cap/end/nut/top piece/whatever that you grip with your fingers was the sharp part, you'd need to stock up on band aids. ;>))

Josh Yenne · Post by **Josh Yenne** » 30 Jun 2017 6:20 pm

truthfully my favorite part is that that are SO SMALL... they sound as good as others... and I like the custom lengths i can make at any time in about 2 minutes (including fishing them out and getting wire clippers)

abut I lover how the small gauge barely takes up any room at all.

Bob Grado · Post by **Bob Grado** » 4 Jul 2017 12:46 pm

Here's an example. I use 6 cables in my rig 4 of which are right angles. I never pull a cable out by the cord but inevitably I will sooner or later have to make a repair. I was able to make this one in less then a minute. I love these cables so I continue to use them but I wish the angle cables weren't so tender. [/img]

Bill Ferguson · Post by **Bill Ferguson** » 4 Jul 2017 2:56 pm

I would guess that this is an installer error. The screw cap is supposed to cut through the jacket and the ground but the cap thread is not long enough to cut into the center core

Drew Pierce · Post by **Drew Pierce** » 7 Jul 2017 2:29 pm

Not often mentioned is the fact that in addition to their superior performance, George L's cables are more compact than just about any other cable and coil easily into the small compartments of a pack-a-seat. I see some guitar players using cables that look like they belong on an arc welder.

Bill Ferguson · Post by **Bill Ferguson** » 8 Jul 2017 5:15 am

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Steve Spitz · Post by **Steve Spitz** » 8 Jul 2017 12:29 pm

Ive used them forever, with minimal issues. They do coil up nicely.

Ive heard amp builders state that many of the problems they troubleshoot are a result of solderless cables being the culprit. As such, They stated a preference for soldered cables.

I recently obtained some short cables with amphenol tips. If I get the time, I might get some mogami or similar quality cable and solder some up. Ill post if I can tell any difference.

The next issue is, will cables made by me with my midlevel skills be more reliable than my George Ls?
I guess time will tell.

Paddy Long · Post by **Paddy Long** » 9 Jul 2017 6:16 pm

It's a shame GL stopped making their "Masters" series right angled plugs -- they were 100 times more robust and less likely to give you problems than the standard variety. Fortunately I bagged a bunch of them before they stopped making them. Just love George L cables and have used it since about 1982.

Ryan Bramlett · Post by **Ryan Bramlett** » 13 Jul 2017 6:26 pm

For those who have the vaunted George L cables, can you tell me (because i've never actually laid eyes on one), do they have the typical "rubber" material that guitar cables are usually made of? i ask because my cat has a thing for rubber guitar cables and will chew and chew them like nobody's business. i had to get cloth cables just to get him to cut it out!

Steven Paris · Post by **Steven Paris** » 13 Jul 2017 9:14 pm

Steve Spitz wrote:Ive heard amp builders state that many of the problems they troubleshoot are a result of solderless cables being the culprit. As such, They stated a preference for soldered cables.

AMEN!!!! Solderless cables are just a disaster WAITING to happen. Thankfully they are easy to repair, because they'll need it a LOT more than any good soldered cable will.

Bill Ferguson · Post by **Bill Ferguson** » 14 Jul 2017 12:20 am

I believe that if put together properly, a soldered or solderless cable will give years of trouble free service.

I used soldered cables in my early years, but always had a tool box with me just in case. Then I finally started taking a spare soldered cable for everything.

When I was first turned on to George L's in the early 80's, I was pleasantly surprised that I virtually had no problems with the ends. I handle all my equipment with extreme care, including soldered and solderless cables.

Here is what I did find immediately. The George L's cables seemed to "take the blanket off the front of my amp".
There was a distinct difference in tonal quality. I guess that is why George L's calls their cable the "Clear Cable", because it truly is.

So I became a George L's dealer and never looked back. Since that day in the late 80's, I have sold thousands of George L's cables and ends. I have NEVER had anyone say they did not like them.

Now Ryan, Yes they have a rubber jacket. Two thicknesses are available. .155 small diameter (most popular) and .155 large diameter (mostly used by stand up guitar players).
Both have the exact same core wire and sound the same.

Here is a picture I used in advertising. These are all .155 as that is what I keep in stock.

Let me know if I can ever be of service.

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 14 Jul 2017 1:44 pm

Steven Paris wrote: "Solderless cables are just a disaster WAITING to happen. Thankfully they are easy to repair, because they'll need it a LOT more than any good soldered cable will."

Yeah. I have been using George L's for about 15 years. As far as I can remember I have repaired one. Yep, that's a lot.

I have had commercial cables fail also, but not many.
Whatever you use, if the person who put them together did it right (important), and if you pull on the plug to disconnect the cable versus YANKING on the cable (also important), it is not going to fail.

If or when it does, after 20 years or so, it does. It happens.

Everybody has their preferences. I like the George L's. If they failed on me all over the place I wouldn't use them. Truth be known, I could go back to using store bought cables, or cables I built myself, and it wouldn't matter.

The one combination which may not have been mentioned: Use the George L CABLE, but make your own cables using solder plugs. That way you get the electrical characteristics of the cable, but get the warm and comfy feeling of a soldered connection that you did yourself. I can see this as a viable alternative.

The REAL disaster waiting to happen is guys who go out to a gig and don't bring any spare cables.
Or strings.
Or fuses.
Or batteries.
Or even a spare cheapo amp.

Drew Pierce · Post by **Drew Pierce** » 15 Jul 2017 10:24 am

If my George L's cables are "a disaster WAITING to happen", I'm still waiting after twenty+ years. As for soldered cables, if they fail on the job and you have no spare (and can't bum a spare from a band mate) you are SOL. On-the-job repair is not an option. With George L's, it's a 3-minute fix, max. I'm not saying I've never had a connection issue. I've had maybe one or two over two decades. But it's very easy to locate any problem. Just wiggle the cable at each connector and the problem connection will be both immediately apparent and easily fixed. Usually a matter of tightening a screw or thumb screw. Or, at most, cutting off an inch or so of the cable and re-installing the connector. But if put together and handled properly, that will almost never be necessary.

I use three right angle connectors in my rig, one at the end plate (guitar output), one at the amp input and one at the delay pedal input in the effects loop. I ALWAYS check the thumbscrews when I plug them in at every setup to make sure they are good and snug. I should probably get some of the little plastic covers but I like being able to visually check that situation at each setup.

ajm · Post by **ajm** » 15 Jul 2017 2:40 pm

Let's not forget that sometimes intermittent problems are not the plug/cable, but can also be the jack on the effect/amp being corroded/dirty/etc.

And.......

Drew, my man, you are making a big assumption about being able to fix a George L on the job in a dive bar.

"HEY....ANYBODY IN HERE GOT A KNIFE?"

Not to be used with:

"HEY, ANYBODY GOT CHANGE FOR A HUNDRED?"

Lee Baucum · Post by **Lee Baucum** » 15 Jul 2017 7:17 pm

Steven Paris wrote:Solderless cables are just a disaster WAITING to happen. Thankfully they are easy to repair, because they'll need it a LOT more than any good soldered cable will.

I've been using them since the 1980's with zero problems. $:\$

Drew Pierce · Post by **Drew Pierce** » 16 Jul 2017 2:12 pm

Drew, my man, you are making a big assumption about being able to fix a George L on the job in a dive bar.

"HEY....ANYBODY IN HERE GOT A KNIFE?"

Not to be used with:

"HEY, ANYBODY GOT CHANGE FOR A HUNDRED?"[/quote]

I've played a few where they checked everybody for weapons at the door. If you didn't have one they'd loan you one.

Dan Robinson · Post by **Dan Robinson** » 18 Jul 2017 10:52 pm

I finally have a good guitar with fine pickup (Carter, BL/XR-16), Hilton VP, and an decent amp. Spent a bunch of dough on that stuff. Seems silly not to try cables that so many of you like. Custom length is a nice touch too. The guitar to VP cable is inevitably too long. The VP to amp cable is often too short. Just can't see a downside in trying them.

Bill, I'll get in touch with you. I'm playing for free, but the band gets payed to rehearse and haul all this gear to our gigs

Steve Spitz · Post by **Steve Spitz** » 20 Jul 2017 4:59 am

Not a knock on any product, but trying to repair a cable in a dark dive bar or similar situation would be more of a challenge, which I think is the point. Not my first choice, but it could be done.

Im thinking a spare cable is a more logical solution. Im betting we dont play a job without a spare set of strings. just sayin....