The Steel Guitar Forum

Thanks Dick, looking forward to seeing the pics. I just got an email from Mark saying my guitar was shipped today and should deliver to me on Friday. I'll post some detailed photos in this thread when I get it. Sure hope it's all good when it arrives.

My Remmy d-10

Wow!, That sure is purdy. Much cleaner than mine is. I'm guessing the aluminum blocks on the back side of the changer are the Turtles?

Yup those are the turtles.
This one is really still brand new.
The man is a very accomplish musician and teaches violin, piano, etc and can play most everything except the pedal steel. He is keeping his Remington S-10, not ready to quit yet but he really had no need for the D-10.
I bought this knowing that somewhere there was a flaw in the finish. Turns out the front apron is fine but the deck when it was finished someone slathered the clear coat on and it has bubbles in it, but all contained pretty much inside the tuner area and some between the necks.
I am anxious to hear your report.
Dick
Hey anyone else want to share their Remmy pictures????
Dick

Here are pictures of my Remington D-10 that I bought in 2002. It was my first steel guitar. About a year later I sold it to a fellow in Dallas, TX. I decided I wanted to play a U12 and was able to buy a Sierra on the Forum...I now have three Sierra U12s.
If you notice, the pedals are mounted on the pedal bar in a square type enclosure. Bobby Bowman called these "porches". There is (should be) an adjustment screw there that will tweak the length of the pedal throw. The little "porch" provides for a very solid pedal stop.

That's a real nice looking one Tom. I noticed that too on the pedals. I see yours looked to be pre-turtle and your front apron reads SLX Sustainmaster. Mine has Remington steel logo on both sides instead.
Thanks for adding some pictures.

Soooo, my Remington was delivered today. Overall very nice condition for it;s age. It does need some attention underneath, which I'll assume is from the vibration of shipping, not that the previous owner didn't give me the real scoop. Some of the rods are so loose they fall out of the bellcranks, and at least one of the stop screws on the knee levers came out and was loose in the case. Can anyone point me toward some info on how to adjust these? I really don't want to turn around and ship it off to someone for a tune up right now. Today was a long day so I haven't yet tuned it and checked to see how things are working, but even if most everything is okay, I still have a few items to address. Thanks

A little bit of searching revealed the carter site. The adjustments are as I thought they would be from looking at the mechanism and seeing what things do. Seems relatively simple, tedious , but simple.

Boy, the guitar is so so nice to sit behind and play. It fits like a glove, the pedals and knees levers are absolutely so smooth and quiet, it is as smooth as my Fessy.
Unless I got one of the best ones, I can't imagine why there aren't more of these around. Or maybe this is why they hardly ever come up?? Same way with my Fessenden, I know there are lots of them and they don't show up for sale often either.
After I learned how to adjust the knee levers, my Fessy fits like a glove also.

Dick Chapple Sr wrote:Boy, the guitar is so so nice to sit behind and play. It fits like a glove, the pedals and knees levers are absolutely so smooth and quiet, it is as smooth as my Fessy.
Unless I got one of the best ones, I can't imagine why there aren't more of these around. Or maybe this is why they hardly ever come up?? Same way with my Fessenden, I know there are lots of them and they don't show up for sale often either.
After I learned how to adjust the knee levers, my Fessy fits like a glove also.

Dick, does your LKL line up over your B pedal? It looks like it does in the photos. Mine does and I find myself wishing my left side knee levers were shifted further left so LKL lined up over the A pedal.

Gino I did some measuring.
Facing the players side of the guitar, I used the left leg's centerline as zero and measured to each pedal & knee lever in progression to the right leg's centerline which is at 32".
From zero then, 1st pedal = 5 1/2", 2nd pedal = 8 1/4", 7th pedal = 21 1/2", & 8th pedal = 24 1/4".
LKL = 7 3/4", LKR = 13 1/4", RKL = 23 1/2", & RKR = 29 1/2".
Measurements for the knee levers is taken at the lever hinges.
Hope this helps.
Dick

Gino Cecchetto wrote:Dick, does your LKL line up over your B pedal? It looks like it does in the photos. Mine does and I find myself wishing my left side knee levers were shifted further left so LKL lined up over the A pedal.

On my Carter D-10, LKL hangs midway between the 2nd and 3rd pedal, which is typical. I don't think I'd be able to reach it comfortably if it lined up with the 1st pedal.

b0b wrote:

Gino Cecchetto wrote:Dick, does your LKL line up over your B pedal? It looks like it does in the photos. Mine does and I find myself wishing my left side knee levers were shifted further left so LKL lined up over the A pedal.

On my Carter D-10, LKL hangs midway between the 2nd and 3rd pedal, which is typical. I don't think I'd be able to reach it comfortably if it lined up with the 1st pedal.

Looking at photos of different guitars, this does appear to be a typical layout, but the angle it puts my leg at from the knee down makes it very hard for me to rock onto the B pedal from a depressed A pedal. Maybe I have some rang of motion issues that direction in my ankle. I don't render this being an issue with my Williams.

Good afternoon Gino:
Each time I see a new message from you, I run down and sit behind the Remmy and look at what my body is doing and how and where it is positioned. I sit with my body centerline somewhere between the 12 and 15 fret. I am only 5'7"" tall, but rather long legged. From my pedal & knee measurements you can see that my LKL is a tad closer to the 2nd pedal than the 1st pedal. This is at the hinge however, then with the set screws one can adjust the angle at which the pedals hang. For me, my left leg is at vertical from the knee down when my foot is hovering equally over pedals A & B. I can depress A alone without leaning into LKL and no problem at all rocking on to pedal B. I do have to stretch a little to depress A & B along with pushing LKL to be sure pedal B stays down.
Would you perhaps benefit by having E raises and lowers on the RKL & RKR to eliminate an ankle that's not doing what it's told to do?
I sure do like this E raise on LKL and E lower on RKL.

Dick Chapple Sr wrote:Good afternoon Gino:
Each time I see a new message from you, I run down and sit behind the Remmy and look at what my body is doing and how and where it is positioned. I sit with my body centerline somewhere between the 12 and 15 fret. I am only 5'7"" tall, but rather long legged. From my pedal & knee measurements you can see that my LKL is a tad closer to the 2nd pedal than the 1st pedal. This is at the hinge however, then with the set screws one can adjust the angle at which the pedals hang. For me, my left leg is at vertical from the knee down when my foot is hovering equally over pedals A & B. I can depress A alone without leaning into LKL and no problem at all rocking on to pedal B. I do have to stretch a little to depress A & B along with pushing LKL to be sure pedal B stays down.
Would you perhaps benefit by having E raises and lowers on the RKL & RKR to eliminate an ankle that's not doing what it's told to do?
I sure do like this E raise on LKL and E lower on RKL.

Hi Dick;

Sorry for dropping out on you, been a really busy day fixing the steelseat I bought used yesterday. Shame on me for not setting it up before buying. The spacer block that elevates one set of legs above they other when they are folded was basically torn off. Turns out the T-Nuts where pulled through the crappy pressed fiberboard the seat is made from. Been busy fixing my steel as well, certainly not perfect and needs nothing done to it as I was told. Several rods were out of the bell cranks, and one was lowering a string on a knee lever when it should have been raising it. Suppose this could be someones personal preference, but it was supposed to be a standard Emmons set up. Think I have it all correct now, but it seems some of the knees don't settle back to correct tune. I may yet need to send it off to someone to go through it. The two rods I had out of it while correcting the pulls were pretty bent up at the changer end, so maybe that is causing some issues. I straightened the ones I had out, but I'm guessing the rest are bent as well. Any way, not a lot left in me for measuring things today, so I'll dive into that tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to measure your guitar and post it for me.

Thanks to you Bob as well.

I am sorry to hear that, kind of makes the ears get hot doesn't it!!
I guess if there is a plus in this, it's getting to know the inner workings of the guitar more.
I don't know who is in your area. I bought a really nice Sho-Bud Pro III from Tony Prior on here and he did a great job of going through the guitar, cleaning, adjusting, setting up. I hope you can find a good guy near you to help out.
Dick

Well....ultimately, I need to know how to maintain the guitar myself, so I'll push through this as a learning experience. I'm not comfortable will taking the guitar completely apart to pull the changer out to clean that up at this point though, so if it comes to a total disassembly and rebuild i'll send it out to someone.

It's brutal starting from scratch again. I need to buy some strings, and I can't even remember who I was ordering them from and what I was using. Guess I'll mic the strings tomorrow and buy a set that are all the same gauges so I don't have to make any more adjustments. I see a new Williams in my future:)

Gino,

The guitar played nicely and stayed in tune when I had it. I never said it didn't need anything done to it. I admitted that I was not a steel player, but I do know the rods weren't loose when I had it. If a couple were bent, they were that way when I got it. It still stayed in tune. As I recall, you were more interested in the outward appearance of it than the inner workings...and nit-picked several of the pics I sent to you. The guitar is in great condition for it's age. You knew you weren't buying a new guitar. As I see it, you still got a helluva deal, especially for the price you paid. Oh, btw, the changer operated very smoothly, but I figured you'd see some kind of problem in that as well. It seems some people can never be satisfied.

Mark, I'm happy with the guitar, yes it needs some love, but it's still a very cool guitar. I'm not going to get into a pissing match with you here on the forum. Yes I feel you could have been more forthright about some things, like the broken case you told me was a mute point because I never asked you about the case, but I haven't asked you for anything. Nor did I go back to your post in the for sale forum and post anything derogatory, like you have here. Let's leave this, right here and be done with it. You can always call me if you feel something else needs to be said.

Fair enough...point of clarification, though; one end of the divider had separated from the case. It was repaired before I even received it. It may not have been a professional repair, nevertheless, it was attached to the case and doing it's job. So, in my opinion, it was not broken. FYI, I don't believe you could have posted anything on the for sale post, because it was closed, so I figured you were doing it here. I sincerely hope you can enjoy the guitar.

Mark Walls wrote:Fair enough...point of clarification, though; one end of the divider had separated from the case. It was repaired before I even received it. It may not have been a professional repair, nevertheless, it was attached to the case and doing it's job. So, in my opinion, it was not broken. FYI, I don't believe you could have posted anything on the for sale post, because it was closed, so I figured you were doing it here. I sincerely hope you can enjoy the guitar.

The guitar is and will be loved. PM inbound regarding the case..

Hi Dick;

Looking at the shots of your undercarrage, it looks like you RKR lever is setup like mine to lower string 2 D# D - C# and string 9 D - C#. Any chance you can tell me what position the rods are in on the bell cranks and changer fingers? On the D# I'm not feeling a detent to center me on the lower to D and I'm trying to figure out if I need to move the rods to give me less travel or more. It looks like your rods are all the way at the bottom of the bell cranks, but I can't tell for sure. Sorry should have mentioned on your E9th neck.

Thanks in advance.

Hi Gino:
I will check those out for you in a bit here, Hector my 19 month old grandson has got me cornered for a while, my future steel guitarist I hope!!
With the guitar set up to play, is the bottom hole on the bell crank referring to the hole closest to the pedals and top hole closest to strings?

Dick Chapple Sr wrote:Hi Gino:
I will check those out for you in a bit here, Hector my 19 month old grandson has got me cornered for a while, my future steel guitarist I hope!!
With the guitar set up to play, is the bottom hole on the bell crank referring to the hole closest to the pedals and top hole closest to strings?

Thanks Dick. I'm no expert, so not sure what common convention is for the location of the positions on the bell cranks, but as you suggest works fine for me. I appreciate the help.

My guitar seems setup for someone who preferred a stiffer feel and less travel. Full travel of the pedals is only 3/4". I don't so much have a point of reference anymore since it has been years since i was playing last, but that seems shorter than I remember the throw on my Williams being, but then again, maybe not.

Gino:
Well we're done baby-sitting our grandson, now I have to go bowl in 45 minutes.
I'll get home around 830PM and get those positions etc for you, hopefully you're still up. I am a very late night person so I'll get those to you tonight.
Dick
sorry about the delays.