Rebuilding a Simmons Genesis

Paul Hoaglin · Post by **Paul Hoaglin** » 13 Apr 2015 6:41 pm

Thanks, Richard, for the reminder pics. Question - how well does that system cope with tuning two different strings on the same lever (like the E lowers, for instance)? It seems that it might not work ideally for two different strings. I've been leaning towards the "revised" Marlen way of putting a tuner nut on the changer end of the spring-loaded rod to cope with that eventuality.

The good news is that I got a lot of pulls back on, restrung it, and tested the new "solid" stop today. The other "good" news is that I've finally found the Achilles' Heel of this particular horn's so-called "cabinet drop" - the bad news is that it's the mounting screws holding the changer down onto the body that are slowly weakening/stripping. I've drilled two new holes for new screws to hold it down more securely, and I think I'm going to switch from wood screws to machine screws attaching to either nuts or a threaded bar mounted underneath, to help solidify the whole arrangement. That ought to take care of that, and hopefully reduce the "cabinet" drop significantly (I've never believed that it's truly "cabinet" drop in most cases, and this proved it to me, at least in the case of this particular instrument).

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to pick up some more of the hardware I need (it seems like an endless supply!) to make those changes, and then maybe I can re-string it back up (again!) and have the string tension hold this time, and maybe I'll actually make some progress on getting this guy playable for real.

Boy, do I really appreciate the rugged reliability of my MSA's mechanics now! Bless you, Reece (RIP)....

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 13 Apr 2015 9:16 pm

With two strings lowered on the same lever, one string has to have a fine-tuning adjuster (barrel?) on the lowering rod, instead of the collar in my previous sketch.

I have shown two photos of my Marlen, one with an adjuster (blue arrow) on the 9th string, and another with a better view of an adjuster (but in a different application, split-tuning the sixth string lower)

The bad news is that the adjusters on strings that lower are very tricky to get at, due to the raise rods getting in the way of my fumbling fingers, but the good news is that they very rarely ever need to be adjusted again, such is the stability of the pull-release system.

Paul Hoaglin · Post by **Paul Hoaglin** » 17 Apr 2015 9:22 am

Thanks for those pics, Richard - it's very helpful. I'm thinking of splitting the difference mechanically, as the lever stops are set up already in such a way that they would work perfectly to provide that screw-adjustable stop at the crossrod, but I'm thinking it would be easier (especially since my intention is to sell it) to have the fine-tuning done at the changer end. The only lever at the moment that I plan to set up for "middle" notes is the E lower lever (LKR in this case), unless I decide to try to put back the 6th string lower along with 2 & 9 that I had on it on RKL at one point before loaning it out. But that may be more mechanically (not to mention musically) more complicated than a potential buyer would want.

Next step: get a couple new rods (they're thinner than 1/8" so I have to bring one into my favourite Ace), thread the ends (4-40 I believe, and I do have the die), and start experimenting on that LKR E lower mechanism. That'll be the real test of my mechanical/troubleshooting skills! (I think long-ish springs are going to be the key here....)

Paul Hoaglin · Post by **Paul Hoaglin** » 24 Apr 2015 12:32 pm

Update: my health condition has been re-diagnosed to Crohn's disease rather than ulcerative colitis, and the surgery I was hoping to undergo to help me feel better is no longer possible. So it's looking like I will not be able to finish rebuilding/restoring this Simmons steel. The last I had gotten to, my attempt to create a new spring-loaded lower bracket and "middle note" tuner setup failed miserably, and I no longer have the energy (nor, frankly, with this latest news, the enthusiasm) to try to debug what isn't working. So this thread can be closed since I won't be adding anything new to it. Perhaps, if anyone is interested in taking the carcass off my hands and finishing the work properly, it may live again, but not through my so-called "work." In the unlikely event that someone is interested in it, let me know by PM or email, which is pacealot at Google's primary email service (I don't even have a clue what it could possibly be worth in this condition, if anything). I will gladly donate the customary percentage to b0b if I do sell it to anyone, doubtful though that seems.

Sorry to disappoint by being unable to finish this at least for instruction's sake (it would've been a great lesson in what not to do; unfortunately the "what not to do" lesson for me was to embark on the project at all)....

James Holland · Post by **James Holland** » 24 Apr 2015 8:43 pm

Hey Paul, sorry to hear about the health issues - I was enjoying your posts and progress on this effort. Let me contact a few steel mechanics in my area - I'd like to have a second steel, and maybe I can make you an offer and have one of them finish it up.

Paul Hoaglin · Post by **Paul Hoaglin** » 25 Apr 2015 7:21 pm

Thanks, James - my first preference would be not to have to ship it across the country, but I'll bear you in mind in any case. I'm so frustrated and upset at the moment that I'm ready to throw it into the trash, along with all the other foolish projects I've embarked upon and ruined during my illness-related "down time" (way too many to mention). I'd prefer a local pickup (I hate hate hate UPS and FedEx like the plague, or possibly worse), but I may not have a choice in the matter. I'll keep you posted in any event....

Paul Hoaglin · Post by **Paul Hoaglin** » 4 May 2015 10:00 am

Looks like my father will be taking this steel off my hands gratis and completing it, assuming I can somehow get it to him (he lives out of the country now but comes to the States a few times a year)....