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Posted: 17 Jul 2013 8:53 am
by CrowBear Schmitt
Reminds me of a Laurel & Hardy movie where the house is all set up wrong
the guy sits in the tub w: a cigar, turns on the faucet & BOOM !
Gas instead of Water
Posted: 17 Jul 2013 9:02 am
by Jim Cohen
Curtis, that's the first thing we checked; no problem there.
Bob Cox: thanks for that great info. I'll write you directly for some further questions.
Posted: 17 Jul 2013 9:19 am
by Gene Jones
Jim we had a direct connection to your problem. A few years ago we bought a new split level that we thought met all of our wants. After moving in, we discovered that the toilets were flushing with hot water.
A frantic call to the builder revealed that the plumbers had reversed the connections during construction, and it was a simple problem to correct.
Don't panic.......
Posted: 17 Jul 2013 9:20 am
by Jim Cohen
Wish ours was that easy to fix, Gene. We obviously checked that first...
Posted: 17 Jul 2013 9:21 am
by Dick Wood
Jim-Get on U-Toob and look up Three Stooges-A plumbing we will go.Very good instructional video indeed.
I'm here to help all I can.
Posted: 17 Jul 2013 9:25 am
by Jim Cohen
Thanks Dick, but Bud Angelotti scooped you on that one back on page 1.
Posted: 20 Jul 2013 6:07 am
by Gene Jones
The modern world is too complicated for me. When I was growing up in southwestern Oklahoma the only plumbing we had was a pipe from the windmill to the horses water tank.
If the water stopped running; either the wind wasn't blowing or the well had gone dry.
Posted: 20 Jul 2013 6:47 am
by Joe Casey
Posted: 25 Jul 2013 12:46 pm
by Ronnie Boettcher
I was a union electrician for 46 years. I would insist on a complete new washer. Here is why. The only way to rectify your problem is to have a new complete wiring of the washer, and of the complete mixing valve. It might be caused by the solenoids pulling the valve open, which is controlled by the temperature, and timer controls. And also of the valve itself stuck in the open position. If it is under warranty, tell them to take the junk back, and replace it with a new unit. You as the consumer have the right to send it back. Then what I would do is buy a different brand. They all are nothing but a tin box, with parts inside them. You failed to mention the brand name, and the retail store where it was purchased. Those people do not like to have their products dissed, in public.
Good luck, Ronnie
Posted: 26 Jul 2013 2:39 am
by Ken Metcalf
I am not a Plumber but I play one on the internet and I believe Ronnie is on the right track.
If the mixing valve (Washing Machine) is not the culprit then you may want to tune it to 440..
Posted: 26 Jul 2013 8:41 am
by Ron Page
Ok, Jimbeax. Inquiring minds want to know.
- A. Problem solved?
B. You wearing dirty underpants?
C. Both A and B?
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 9:16 am
by Jim Cohen
Ron Page wrote: Ok, Jimbeax. Inquiring minds want to know.
- A. Problem solved?
B. You wearing dirty underpants?
C. Both A and B?
A. No
B. Let's just say I'd better not get hit by a bus and dragged into the E.R. unconscious. Mama warned me...
C. See A&B above
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
So here's the latest: It turns out that this type of (front-loading) washer does not have a "mix valve". There's a separate valve for hot water and a separate one for cold water. The only place they mix inside the machine is in the soap tray, before drizzling down into the main clothes tank. The repair man told me that if there was a valve stuck open, then the water would drip through the soap tray into the machine itself, which it was not doing. The biggest mystery is that the problem we're having occurs when the machine is OFF (as long as the (separate) taps from the wall to the machine are open.
So, no, the problem is still not fixed.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 9:32 am
by Shorty Rogers
Jim, What happens when you turn only one of the taps at the wall on? I'd check it twice, with each one on separately, with the machine off each time.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 9:34 am
by Jim Cohen
Shorty, that sounds like a good test. I'll try it and report back here. thanks for the suggestion.
hot water
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 12:55 pm
by Curtis Alford
There must be a cross connection in the new washer.
I feel like the repair or service is not well trained in that model washer. A mixing valve is the way to control the water temperature for the machine.
What make and model machine do you have? I would like to research it.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 1:07 pm
by Jim Cohen
LG Model WM2650H
BUT! Y'all are NOT gonna believe this. I just went to run the test that Shorty suggested and discovered that... the problem has now vanished! It is NOT doing it anymore! What the heck?? I'm just mystified. Thanks to everyone for their input; I just hope the problem stays away for good!
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 1:22 pm
by Bob Hickish
Jiminhotwater
do you have a hot water circulator -???- you know the kind that always keeps the hot water tap hot -- if so, turn it off and see what happens --
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 1:26 pm
by Jim Cohen
As far as I know, we don't have one of those.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 1:55 pm
by Bob Hickish
Jim Cohen wrote:As far as I know, we don't have one of those.
hot water jim
if you get instant hot water at the furtherest tap from the hot water heater , might be a clue you do have one --
wish i was a plumber Jim -- my expertise is in converting kerosine into noise
I just remembered I once held the title of experimental plumber at Boeing -- so trust me
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 2:14 pm
by Jim Cohen
we don't have instant hot water. it usually has to warm up for a minute.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 2:14 pm
by Jim Cohen
(duplicate deleted)
hot water
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 3:49 pm
by Curtis Alford
You have the steam option on that machine?
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 3:54 pm
by Jim Cohen
Yes, I believe it does have the steam option, though we haven't used it yet.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 5:05 pm
by Joe B. Long
Jim Cohen wrote:Yeah, but I still have two questions:
a) why only this sink?
b) why when the washing machine is OFF? Isn't the mixvalve dormant when the machine is off? Why should it matter if it's faulty unless the machine is ON and water is flowing through it?
I am a plumber and have been licensed for 13 years....I would say it's a bad solenoid or mixing valve in the washing machine.....do you have a single lever box on the wall that turns both hot and cold water on, or is there separate hot and cold valves with independent shut-offs?....have you tried to turn off just the hot water and see what happens?...is the water scalding hot or lukewarm at the sink when you run it? The sink might be the closest fixture that is on the same part of the plumbing manifold in the wall and the hot water is taking the path of least resistance to that fixture...I have tons more question and a few more possibilities that could be causing this. With out being there and seeing what your plumbing is like it's hard to guess.
Posted: 1 Aug 2013 5:15 pm
by Jim Cohen
Joe B. Long wrote:....I would say it's a bad solenoid or mixing valve in the washing machine.
Thanks, Joe, but as described above, this machine does not have a mixing valve. Also there is a separate hot tap and separate cold tap at the wall. Each is connected to a separate flexible hose that goes to two separate inputs/valves inside the washer. those two interior lines ONLY meet each other in the soap tray. That's the only place that any mixing of hot and cold water happens inside the washer.