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Posted: 1 Jun 2010 2:17 pm
by James Morehead
Here's the 6061 aluminum keyheads finished out.
Posted: 1 Jun 2010 2:22 pm
by John Groover McDuffie
How are the replacement fingers for the Super Pro era 'Buds coming along?
Posted: 1 Jun 2010 2:25 pm
by James Morehead
In the works.
Posted: 1 Jun 2010 2:28 pm
by James Morehead
Yes Marc, trying to get back on track!!
Sho Bud
Posted: 1 Jun 2010 4:53 pm
by Billy Knowles
I bet James's work is better than any parts that came on original Sho-Buds. His work is really great and only second to his willingness to help people and give them advice. When it comes to Sho=Bud James is the man.
Billy
Sho-bud Parts
Posted: 1 Jun 2010 5:11 pm
by Bob Muller
I've got to say James those do look like some mighty fine parts!! keep up the good work.
Posted: 2 Jun 2010 4:10 am
by Ken Byng
James
I will certainly get you to machine new endplates for my Pro III Custom, along with a set of new fingers on both necks to replace my grooved ones. I will send you an email re the above.
Pins versus grooves. Pins for me any day of the week. I dread putting the bottom 2 C6 strings on my grooved ShoBud fingers.
A wider question that occurs to me. I take it that your endplates are also drilled and tapped to take the standard leg thread? How do you make sure the angle of the thread is correct?
Ken
Posted: 2 Jun 2010 5:19 am
by Pit Lenz
Yes, 3Lower/3Raise changers with pins,
pretty please with sugar on top
Posted: 2 Jun 2010 6:39 am
by James Morehead
Ken Byng wrote:
A wider question that occurs to me. I take it that your endplates are also drilled and tapped to take the standard leg thread? How do you make sure the angle of the thread is correct?
Ken
Ken, The angle of the leg ferrule threads in the endplates are all measured in the CNC proccess, and when completed, are visually tested by screwing in a set of standard legs to double check accuracy.
Pit, We are doing triple/double at the moment. triple triple is quite possible.
Posted: 2 Jun 2010 7:15 am
by Brint Hannay
Ken Byng wrote:Pins versus grooves. Pins for me any day of the week. I dread putting the bottom 2 C6 strings on my grooved ShoBud fingers.
Not that I'm assuming this hasn't occurred to you, but personally I don't find that a problem if I pre-bend those two strings just next to the ball end with long-nose pliers.
Posted: 2 Jun 2010 1:14 pm
by Ken Byng
Hi Brint
Yes I do bend the strings, and put a piece of pencil eraser in place to stop them moving. However, the grooves are quite narrow and the wound ends just about fit into the groove. What James is doing with the pins is great and should have been done in the first place.
Posted: 4 Jun 2010 6:59 am
by Gerard Kema
James Morehead wrote:Here's some endplate finish pictures. This endplate is is 6061 aluminum.
Beautiful endplates, James!!
How do you get the endplates to shine like a mirror?
Excellent job!!
Posted: 6 Jun 2010 6:04 am
by James Morehead
Hi Gerard, Thanx for the kind words!! I hand polished them. I had to quit polishing them before they disappeared on me!!
Posted: 8 Jun 2010 9:43 pm
by Danny Bates
A+ First Class all the way!
Posted: 14 Jul 2010 6:04 am
by James Morehead
Here's our latest--Teardrop Knee levers for the Super Pro era guitars. Read more and see more pics here:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopi ... 24#1638424
Posted: 20 Jul 2010 5:19 pm
by James Morehead
Herb Steiner wrote:James
Allow me to make a suggestion to your refurbs of Sho~Bud guitars, especially when new endplates have to be fabricated.
The weakest point of a Sho~Bud, IMHO is the neck selector and mini-switches on the right endplate, my opinion based on the sheer number of broken switches I see on these guitars.
I have a Professional that was originally made with the three switches centered between the necks (a' la Emmons/all modern guitars), with no holes ever in the endplate. It's a far superior place for these delicate components, though it's not original to most guitars you work on.
You're doing the good stuff, James. Sorry I missed you in Dallas.
Herb, I have never seen a 'bud as you describe, and since you mention it, I have been toying with that idea----------------------------------------------
Endplates
Posted: 21 Jul 2010 8:14 am
by Martin Weenick
James, absolutely beautiful work. I am curious as to why the endplates have two holes drilled in the ledge at the bottom (where the nylon tuners are located) of the changer. There seems to be two holes in each ledge. Thanks, Martin.
Posted: 21 Jul 2010 9:46 am
by James Morehead
Coil-tap switches, Martin.
Posted: 21 Jul 2010 12:52 pm
by John Billings
James, I think he means the two small holes on the inside bottom lip of the cavity, and not the holes for the coil tap switches.
JB
Endplates
Posted: 21 Jul 2010 3:36 pm
by Martin Weenick
Thanks John, yes those are the holes I was refering to. Martin.
Re: Endplates
Posted: 21 Jul 2010 4:56 pm
by James Morehead
Martin Weenick wrote:Thanks John, yes those are the holes I was refering to. Martin.
My bad, I misunderstood you Martin. They are guideplate/spring mount bracket holes.
Posted: 29 Jul 2010 10:31 am
by James Morehead
Here's living proof why I make replacement parts. Can you see the break?
So here's the upgrade below.
We will soon make the hexagon style parts, too.
Posted: 29 Jul 2010 12:25 pm
by Roger Crawford
James, I sure do see the break. I saw it too many times in person, too. That's why I sold my Bud. I wish the quality parts that are being made today were around back then.
Posted: 3 Aug 2010 3:49 pm
by James Morehead
Roger Crawford wrote:James, I sure do see the break. I saw it too many times in person, too. That's why I sold my Bud. I wish the quality parts that are being made today were around back then.
Hey Roger, Thanx for the comment. Hopefully, we can rectify a few weak spots.
Posted: 22 Sep 2010 5:58 am
by James Morehead
TTT