What on Earth have I done?

[Alan Brookes]

...I usually change my strings on my lap steels once a month and on my pedal guitars once a fortnight and on my 6 stringers once a week, and my acoustics after every 3 hour session...

It's always been said about the lute that if you play it for 70 years, you spend 50 of them tuning it. In your case you would probably spend 50 years changing strings.

[John Billings]

Your guitar is now in Low Bass G Bottleneck Tuning. My favorite. I can play things like Gatton's "Funky Mama" in that tuning, using the steady "Dead Thumb" bass style. It's a great tuning for Blues. But then,,,, so is E or D tuning.

[basilh]

Mike, take it from me, I DO know. Stay with the open E tuning, you'll relate to the positions instantly being as you've played regular guitar for so long.
i.e. 3rd fret = G .... 5th fret = A ...instantly pictured in you mind's eye. no need to learn new positions.

As for your gauges, they're WAY too light unless you want the tuning to vary with left-hand pressure on the bar. Also because they are too light, they will not have a very solid tone.
Start off with a good solid tone and you can always "thin" it, but to fatten up a thin sound is MUCH harder to do.

Your first string E should be .014 to .015 and then match the others to the same tension.

Weekend warriors and bedroom bandits may tell you different, listen to them if you wish, BUT I am a working full time pro and have been for 57 years.
I've been there done that and have a wardrobe FULL of those T-Shirts..

[basilh]

...I usually change my strings on my lap steels once a month and on my pedal guitars once a fortnight and on my 6 stringers once a week, and my acoustics after every 3 hour session...

It's always been said about the lute that if you play it for 70 years, you spend 50 of them tuning it. In your case you would probably spend 50 years changing strings.

New strings are the cheapest and most effective way to get a good sound, and essential if you intend to play pro work.

Being pro is a state of mind not pocket..

[Mick Bradley]

Thanks Basil.

and thanks for your advice everyone...

I'll work out a new set of heavier strings in the next few days. I still have some in my ally case, but might have to purchase a few more yet, that's not a problem though. The E tuning I think is the way to go, close to standard tuning and easier to learn with

As for the slide, I'm currently using a Chrome plated tube as you would on standard guitar. Looks like I'll have to invest in a bar, would there be any difference in sound between the two? (Tube & Bar) Am considering experimenting with different slides anyway, ie bottle or clear plastic. There's probably lots of other options available to me.

Thanks Guys.
KR
Mick

mick@g6asj.net

[Alan Brookes]

... would there be any difference in sound between the two? (Tube & Bar)...

Yes, an enormous difference.

[Chris Griffin]

Did you call it a SLIDE?!? Run for cover ! Quick!!!

[Robert Shafer]

As the originator of this thread, from a long time ago, I felt that I ought to chime in.

Fortunately, Mick, you have a couple of 'gurus' on board and the crumbs of their wisdom that fall upon you should be treasured.

With regards to your choice of bar, I would say that 'tubes' are a big no-no. They just don't have the mass to produce a decent sound.

If I, as a complete amateur, may offer some advice, you may be better to get, prior to experimenting, a conventional bullet type of bar. My favourite is the Brozophonic, on eBay, which is about the size used by the late great Jerry Byrd.

Although not easy to control, perseverance is the key. There are a number of threads on here which will advise you. Whilst being just a steel bar, much thought has gone into it with regards to achieving accurate slant positions and single note playing.

Here's a tip that the pros may overlook. If playing with a bullet bar, play on carpet or soft floor as, you may believe me, you will drop the bar at some time, and if it lands on a hard floor damage to the bar may occur.

I would concur with the advice regarding starting with an open E tuning. You will immediately be able to relate to your previous guitar experience.

Anyway, good luck with your new venture. It'll be a lot of fun.

[Mick Bradley]

Hi guys..

Chris. I guess it's only called a "slide" when used on a standard guitar then. Point taken, te he.

I'll keep an eye open for a bar, of the steel variety, not one where I can buy beer.

Thanks to all you "Guru's" and also to Robert for your "Chime". I've not been able to locate my USB cable to upload the pics from the camera, so I'll have to put the card in the laptop in the next few days and then log in and upload them from there.

I've been chatting with Rob my trainee sound man and actual owner of this fine tool, and he actually was given this one by the maker/designer himself. This one that I have may have been a prototype for the model. I cant confirm this, but is one reason why I want to get the pics up on the page as soon as possible. There is no date or serial number on it, only the black plate with engraved makers mark.

It certainly looks better with a set of strings on it, better than the rust covered ones that where on it when I got it.

Watch this space, pics soon (I hope)

[Mick Bradley]

Think I managed to upload 3x pics.....

[basilh]

I wonder if you still have the guitar Mick, and which direction did you go with tuning(s), strings, amp, bar and picks ?
CLICK THIS to view and buy——>