Sho~Bud Professional ??'s

[Skip Edwards]

If you're talking about what I think you're talking about, there is really no choice about which rack to use. The upper rack - closest to the crossbar and the body of the gtr, is for the raises, and the lower rack is for the lowers.

[Bobby Boggs]

Thanks Skip. Then I have a few that are in wrong row of the rack. Anyone else??........bb

[Ricky Davis]

Here's something I wrote about the springs on the single/single shobud; to a guy once> Hope it helps.
[tab]
Yes all those lower springs serve a purpose…..not just in the lowering.
They are there also to stabilize the lower section when you raise a string.

Take for instance.

If you raise your 1st string say a whole tone on E9th…..>if you tighten the lower spring almost all the way…..>you will find that that raise with happen much easier and sooner; as making that lower section more tight….>the raise section will move more freely.

AS for the strings that lower…..Yes you want the lower springs just tight enough so that the lower will come back to pitch….> and maybe a couple turns just tighter….so that it will not have to be adjusted again.

Also take for instance the 3rd and 6th string raise on the B pedal…..>you’ll notice that they don’t particularly move together; as it takes more travel and throw to pull the 3rd string up to pitch than the 6th string.

So to make them pull more even…..Loosen the lower spring on the 6th string half way….and tighten the lower spring on the 3rd string almost all the way and leave the raise spring on….>so with that what you are doing is stabilizing that 3rd string lower section very tight…so that the raise on the 3rd will happen more quickly and then it might move with the now lazier 6th string more so and taking the raise spring off the 6th string helps almost perfectly....but for sure if you use a .012p for the 3rd and .022w for the 6th; then they become dead perfect…..>make sense???

Also another trick……on those little Raise springs that are next to the body and attach to the raise portion of the finger and onto a bracket on the body of the guitar.

Those help strings raise…..so have them on the ones that raise…….and if you don’t have them on the ones that lower….>than of course the lower will happen more freely and moreso……>so here’s another trick I have with them.

Take the 4th string and 8th string lowers…>well you’ll notice that they don’t particularly move together also…..cause the 4th string needs more throw/distance than the 8th. So to get them to move together better…..I like to take off the raise spring of the 4th…..and leave it on the 8th…..>so now the 4th will lower quicker and the 8th will drag behind a little cause the raise spring is on 8th and not on the 4th and the 8th will drag behind because of the raise spring inhibiting the lower……so now they will move better together….

Ok there’s your little “Spring” lesson for the day…
Have fun.

Ricky


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[P Gleespen]

Hey Bobby, I don't know if you're still having the tuning issues, but Jeff Lampert gave me this great explaination many moons ago, when I was having trouble tuning my C pedal on my stinky Professional. I thought it was very clearly put and easy to understand:

To tune a pedal, you first press the pedal. This moves the rack flush against the respective barrel(s). Turning the pullrod at the changer end with the allen wrench turns the body of the barrel (the body of the barrel is attached to the pullrod by a small allen nut). The barrel head is threaded into the body of the barrel. As the body of the barrel is turned, the head, which is held in place flush against the rack, lenthens or shortens. This "shortening" or "lengthening" of the head in effect shortens or lengthens the pull on the finger for the string. Two problems that can occur are:
1. The barrel head is not flush with the rack even with the full pedal extension. If this happens, then not only is their no pull, but you can turn the wrench 'til the cows come home, and it just will not tune, since the barrel MUST touch the rack, in order to turn the head, which does the tuning. To correct this, you have to get an allen wrench that fits the allen nut on the barrel, loosen the nut, and move the barrel close enough to the rack so that when the pedal engages, the barrel head is flush with the rack.

2. If there isn't enough travel, then a barrel might be flush with the rack even when the pedal is NOT engaged. If you then turn the pullrod at the changer end, even WITHOUT engaging a pedal, you will change the tuning of the pull. To correct this, you would have to loosen the barrel so that it is not flush with the rack, and then increase your travel.

In either case make sure that, if you are going to move the barrel's position on the pullrod (by loosening the little allen nut and moving the barrel), that you twist the barrel head, using thumb and forefinger, so that the head is approx. halfway into the barrel body. If the barrel head is totally extended, or totally compressed, you will continue to have tuning problems. After that, you can tighten the nut.

In summary, you should first check to make sure that when all pedals are DISengaged, none of the barrels are flush with their respective racks . You should also make sure that when you press a pedal, that only the rack for that pedal moves, and no others. Again, it is critical that the only barrel that is flush with a rack is the one that applies to the pedal that you are tuning. Since both 5th string raises on the A and C pedals are on the same pullrod, when you tune one pedal the barrel must not touch the rack for the other pedal. Otherwise, you're tuning both.

[Steve Waltz]

there is one other place to make adjustments to pedal feel or travel. Look where the pedal rod attaches to the cross rod right against the font apron under the guitar. There are two spots that you can choose from. This is the spot where the curved part of the pedal rod slips through. One of those will make the pedal travel and the feel a little shorter or longer than what you currently have.

Someone else mentioned something about the holes in the racks. ( the racks are the things that some people call baskets. they have about twenty holes in them. They are U shaped steel with holes drilled in them and the dangle there when not used. )Those are not what changes pedal travel or feel. Pulls are on top and releases are on the bottom. (I think. I'm not looking at mine and the upside down guitar might be altering my memory. But it is not an adjustment for feel or travel.)

Make sure that the barrels are in the right place next to the rack. If they are backed up to far you will need to increase pedal travel and I personally don't like a lot of that, so I try to keep things set for minimum travel. I play mine in socks at home all of the time, so the action must be fairly smoth and easy. Again, I only have two guitars so mine could be a tank and I wouldn't know it. Make sure the pedals aren't hitting the floor before completely engaging. Look to see if the rods are binding against a Rack somewhere. That might cause friction and a stiffer pedal. I pulled all of my rods out and cleaned them up.( soap, water, abrasive spong and then polish. Now they are smoth and shiny.) I could see a few places where they were scraping and catching against a rack so I lightly sanded the groves out that had been made so that they didn't catch on anything.

Check all pivot points to see if there is friction.

Steve