Page 9 of 10
Posted: 23 Sep 2010 6:24 am
by James Morehead
Hey Gerard, Looks fantastic!! You do great work, my friend!!
Posted: 26 Sep 2010 1:37 pm
by Gerard Kema
James Morehead wrote:Hey Gerard, Looks fantastic!! You do great work, my friend!!
Thanks James,
I couldn't have done it without you.
Gerard
Posted: 26 Sep 2010 6:52 pm
by James Morehead
Gerard, it was a pleasure, my friend!!
Posted: 10 Oct 2010 12:29 am
by James Morehead
TTT
Posted: 16 Oct 2010 12:41 pm
by James Morehead
Posted: 16 Oct 2010 1:43 pm
by Larry Robbins
Wow James,
They almost look too good to install!
I think someone would just want to marvel at them for a while!:D Cant wait till you move on to fingers!
Just beautiful work!!
Posted: 16 Oct 2010 2:54 pm
by James Morehead
Hey Larry, Fingers are in the works, and will soon be available.
Posted: 16 Oct 2010 3:38 pm
by Chris Lucker
James and Theresa
Thank you for the parts you have sent me on my past three orders. Wonderful.
Posted: 17 Oct 2010 11:03 pm
by David L. Donald
Great looking parts for sure!
Pedals?
Posted: 20 Oct 2010 8:13 pm
by Randy Gilliam
James I Dont Like the Curved Pedals On My Round front 71 To 73 D 10 , Can I Put The Flat Pedals On it, Thanks Randy Gilliam?
Posted: 21 Oct 2010 1:31 am
by James Morehead
What flat pedals are you refering to? The pedal board axle is 1/2", so whatever pedal you use needs to be of correct dimensionfor the axle as well as the hook-up for the pedal rods. Personally, i'd just use what's stock for a guitar. But that's just me---------------
Posted: 21 Oct 2010 1:31 am
by James Morehead
Thanx for the kind words, Chris and Donald.
Posted: 24 Oct 2010 10:10 am
by James Morehead
Posted: 24 Oct 2010 11:25 am
by Bent Romnes
James, in your reversing mechanism I notice that you are using Chicago Screws. What material are they made of and do you find that they last and are good against wear?
Posted: 24 Oct 2010 11:49 am
by James Morehead
Bent Romnes wrote:James, in your reversing mechanism I notice that you are using Chicago Screws. What material are they made of and do you find that they last and are good against wear?
Brent, Those are aluminum alloy pictured--so far, so good. The chicago screws also come in brass.
Posted: 24 Oct 2010 2:23 pm
by Bent Romnes
Thanks James. I have been thinking to use them in the changer scissors pivot. Easy to get the right tightness, and a drop of loctite keeps them from unscrewing.
Posted: 24 Oct 2010 3:01 pm
by James Morehead
Bent Romnes wrote:Thanks James. I have been thinking to use them in the changer scissors pivot. Easy to get the right tightness, and a drop of loctite keeps them from unscrewing.
Hey Bent, I wouldn't advise useing a chicago screw in a finger. Where I am using them, it's easy to change them out if a problem developes. But that's me. Ah-ha!!
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 7:15 am
by James Morehead
TTT
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 8:38 am
by David L. Donald
What does your RKR mechanism looks like.
Can't quite get my replacement to feel right
and not wobble front to back.
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 8:45 am
by James Morehead
David L. Donald wrote:What does your RKR mechanism looks like.
Can't quite get my replacement to feel right
and not wobble front to back.
Scroll up a little and you'll find the RKR and RKL pics. Email me and I'll see if I can help you.
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 9:05 am
by David L. Donald
I'm only seeing what I recognize as S-10 or S-12 levers.
I should have specified D-10, to work on a Pro-II.
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 9:36 am
by James Morehead
Email me and I'll send you some pics for D10. Lemme know what era your 'bud is, too.
shobud@windstream.net
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 9:45 am
by David L. Donald
Off to bed now almost one am,
and I have the drive to school in the morning...
I'll get back to ya.
Posted: 4 Nov 2010 9:46 am
by James Morehead
Cool, I'll be here for ya.
Posted: 7 Nov 2010 1:45 am
by James Morehead