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Topic: WD-40 pen |
Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 6:37 am |
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A must for your Steel case or Pack seat.
_________________
Custom Rittenberry SD10
Boss Katana 100 Amp
Positive Grid Spark amp
BJS Bars
Z~Legend Pro,Custom Tele
Honor our Vet's.
Now pass the gravy. |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 6:40 am
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I would never use WD40 on the mechanics of a steel guitar. It leaves the most sticky black goo over time that will foul up everything.
WD40 is good enough for hinges on a gate, but nothing dealing with precision movement. |
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Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 6:50 am
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I have'nt had that problem as long as you don't spray it on. I always use a schringe so you can just put a drop on. This pen will make it handy.
_________________
Custom Rittenberry SD10
Boss Katana 100 Amp
Positive Grid Spark amp
BJS Bars
Z~Legend Pro,Custom Tele
Honor our Vet's.
Now pass the gravy. |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 7:14 am
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Well, guys, WD-40 wasn't designed to be a lubricant, or an oil substitute. Sure it has a large cult following, and has many, many, uses around a house to "loosen" things up. But, for a steel guitar, it's a very poor choice.
Why? Because after the liquid component evaporates, the residue left is NOT a lubricant at all. It will be a magnet for contaminants...even worse than oil. And it's "slippery" qualities will completely disappear.
If you really want a truly great lubricant for your steel, use a teflon based lube, like TriFlow. After it's liquid carrier evaporates, a coating of dry teflon is left behind that will last a very long time, not collect contaminants, provide excellent friction reduction (better than oil),and will not migrate.
I learned this the hard way many years ago with an MSA steel on which one of the changer fingers froze up. I had been using WD-40 exclusively on it for years. More WD-40 didn't help anymore...I had to disassemble the changer and completely clean out all the muck that had built up. I re-lubed it with TriFlow and never had a problem again. That was 28 years ago. I have used it ever since on every steel I've owned. No more muck, frozen parts, or excessive wear.
High quality oil will do a good job, if that's what you choose to use. But, teflon is superior and lasts longer.
Just my opinion, YMMV.
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:00 am
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I use Hoppes No. 9 gun oil 
Brandon
_________________
'74 Emmons D10 P/P 8x5,'15 Rittenberry D10 8x5, Peavey Nashville 112, 400 & 1000, Fender Twin Reverb Tone Master, Hilton, Goodrich L120, Boss DD-3 and RV-3 |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:24 am
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I worked in a machine shop for a number of years, and almost ruined a valuable piece of equipment leaving WD40 on it as a protectant. All WD40 has been thrown in the trash, never to be used again.A good grade teflon based gun oil[as previously mentioned] is what you need. WD40 is ok to clean with, if you wipe it all off and apply a good grade of oil afterward.
BF
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Colby Tipton
From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:29 am
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Like Brandon said.
Gun oil is better than WD-40.
If you wipe a gun down with WD-40 and store it for a long time it will make the metal rust, I think it holds any moisture there under it, not to count it gums up your stuff. |
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Dave Burr
From:
League City, TX
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:58 am
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Has anyone ever tried Kano products? I've found that I like Aero Kroil for many applications much better than WD-40 (never used it on a pedal steel though). It's known as "the oil that creeps". Looking at the link below, Kano Penephite looks like it would work really well on a pedal steel.
http://www.kanolabs.com/ |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 9:17 am
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Dave, I'm afraid you wouldn't be happy with graphite lube either after a while. It tends to get gummy also.
I just finished refurbing an MCI U12 that had been lubed for years with a graphite gun lube, and it was a nightmare to clean up. Caked graphite everywhere!! What a mess!! Again, not a very good choice for a steel.
Teflon or highly refined oil (Hoppes No. 9 gun oil is very good) are the only two lubes I would ever let near my guitars.
edit: Dave, the Kano Slikene is the kind of lube I'm refering to.
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Colby Tipton
From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 9:41 am
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When your rollers on your bridge get worn you can use some 30 W motor oil on them to get the buzz and whine out of them. I usually don't have no 30 w around so I use 70 w for my Harley's.
On anything else I would use Teflon or turbine oil. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 9:44 am
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WD-40 is great for loosening up all the gunk caused by the previous use of WD-40.
Mike - I bet it would be good for loosening up the gunk caused by the use of graphite, too.
WD-40 also makes a pretty good hand cleaner.
As a lubricant, no way! |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 9:57 am
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 Lee, are you a mind reader?!?!
That's exactly what I used! As a cleaner, WD-40 is great. I soaked the changer parts in it, and they wiped sparkling clean and new looking.
I even removes gummy tape residue from windows...like those fly-catchers that stick on windows, but leave the adhesive behind when removed! (I hate flies!)
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Sonny Priddy
From:
Elizabethtown, Kentucky, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 1:38 pm wd-40
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| No WD-40 On My Steel Never. SONNY. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 1:43 pm
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I prefer sewing machine oil, or gun oil. Either one is designed to last many years, and not to gum up finely machined metal parts. Dry teflon lubes are fine for bicycle chains and so forth, where the dirt exposure is a problem, but once the vehicle in the lubricant evaporates (almost instantly, as a rule), the migrating capabilities are gone. A good oil will continue to migrate into close-tolerance areas via capillary action.
If you want to use an oil containing a teflon additive, though, I'm fine with that!
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Robert Leaman
From:
Murphy, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 4:12 pm Oil
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Anyone use clock oil ?
It's expensive but that's what I use. It is made and formulated to last for years without gumming. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2007 6:35 pm
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You don't even use a DROP of WD40 on a musical instrument. It's great on rusty hinges and outdoor stuff, but not on a guitar, ever. It's a dirt magnet - even a drop will attract dirt and gum up the works.
I know several who use gun oil; others sewing machine oil (which I used to use); and more now ho have switched to teflon (Tri Flow) since it leaves a dry film with no dirt pickup.
If you use ANY kind of oil plan on flushing it out with naphtha every few month and re-oiling.
And to repeat - WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It's a "W"ater "D"ispersant. Keep it away from your guitars!
| Quote: |
| As a cleaner, WD-40 is great. |
Wow - Mike and I actually disagree on something. It's a"dirty cleaner", meaning one that leaves a residue. Residues attract dirt, counteracting the cleaning action.
Use naphtha for cleaning, and a real lubricant for lubrication...and keep that blue-and-yellow can in the garage.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 4:02 am
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| Quote: |
| If you use ANY kind of oil plan on flushing it out with naphtha every few month and re-oiling. |
Respectfully, I feel that's rather a gross exaggeration. The cleaning and re-oiling necessity is dependent on operating time and conditions. If you play outdoors, in very dusty/dirty conditions (i.e. a rodeo show), cleaning and re-oiling might be advisable every few months. For most of us, though, re-oiling every year or two, and thoroughly cleaning every 5-10 years, is perfectly adequate.
I do agree with Robert about clock oil; it's one of the best (and most expensive) lubricants you can buy. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 4:44 am
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The instruction sheet that came with my new Franklin specifically stated "DO NOT USE WD40". I would never consider using it on a steel so I didn't need the warning.
I used Liquid Wrench #2 for many years as I was told by the Emmons factory that was what they used (back in 71). It's no longer available and I finally ran out about 5 years ago. For the last year or so I've been using Hoppe's #9 Gun Oil, that I got at a Bass Pro Shops, and it seems to work well and last a long time. |
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Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:00 am
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Thanks for the input. I guess I'll change oil's.
I just thought the pen would be a great idea. Maybe I can empty it and refill it with # 9.
_________________
Custom Rittenberry SD10
Boss Katana 100 Amp
Positive Grid Spark amp
BJS Bars
Z~Legend Pro,Custom Tele
Honor our Vet's.
Now pass the gravy. |
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Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:00 am
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Thanks for the input. I guess I'll change oil's.
I just thought the pen would be a great idea. Maybe I can empty it and refill it with # 9.
_________________
Custom Rittenberry SD10
Boss Katana 100 Amp
Positive Grid Spark amp
BJS Bars
Z~Legend Pro,Custom Tele
Honor our Vet's.
Now pass the gravy. |
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Howard Tate
From:
Leesville, Louisiana, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:16 am
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| I've been using the little needle type oiler I got from Mullen. I don't know what the oil is, but Mike told me to use transmission fluid when it runs out, which won't be any time soon. And Bruce told me to use transmission fluid on my Zum changer. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:27 am
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Donny, I've seen light oils like sewing and gun oils pick up dirt and get gummy inside of a few months in a normal environment. You don't get a lot of gumminess, but it's enough to affect things slightly. That's based on not just steels, but 40 years of guitar-tech work. That's one reason I was so happy Tri-Flow worked out so well - it eliminates the flushing/reoiling.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Don Sulesky
From:
Citrus County, FL, Orig. from MA & NH
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:42 am
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I've been using some Remington gun oil that I got from my father back in the 60's. I have it in a type of hypodermic needle unit.
When it runs out I'll need to replace it with the #9 gun oil from Bass.
Don |
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Russ Little
From:
Hosston,Louisiana, USA
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 7:23 pm
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I use a needle oiler with marvel mystery oil
good results do far.little dab will do ya! |
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Al Terhune
From:
Newcastle, WA
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Posted 17 Jul 2007 9:28 pm
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Bill -- don't feel bad. I've NEVER heard a bad thing about WD until the forum. But I reckon it's true -- I've never heard anyone defend it.
_________________
Al
My equipment:
One heck of a Wife
The ghost of a red Doberman
Several pairs of reading glasses strewn about |
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