Hi,
Thought I would pass along a free lap steel plan that I have posted on my website. The instrument plan is roughly patterned after an Oahu Tonemaster with the body profile scaled to match the shorter scale length. The drawing has all details for both 22-1/2" and 24" scales and alternate bridge plate and pick guard ideas. Full printouts of both fret board layouts are also provided. The plans are in PDF format and available as one sheet or 4 sections that can be printed and tiled together for a 12-3/4" by 17" scale print. Hope some of you interested in building will take the plunge with a little encouragement!
PDFs are available for the clicking at:
Bluestemstrings.com<font size="1" color="#8e236b"><p align="center">[This message was edited by Brad Bechtel on 26 August 2006 at 10:58 AM.]</p></FONT>
Free 22-1/2" / 24" lap steel plan
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Randy Cordle
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Bill Hatcher
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Randy Cordle
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Thanks for the input, Bill.
You can now switch backgrounds at the top of the home page. Thanks for the suggestion, the blue background will eventually be the home page only, with all the other linked pages done with the plain paper background. I really dislike sites with (1) Too busy backgrounds or (2) black backgrounds. I'll also eventually get up some MP3s.
You can now switch backgrounds at the top of the home page. Thanks for the suggestion, the blue background will eventually be the home page only, with all the other linked pages done with the plain paper background. I really dislike sites with (1) Too busy backgrounds or (2) black backgrounds. I'll also eventually get up some MP3s.
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Roman Sonnleitner
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Frank Lombard
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Lee Gillespie
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Mel Taylor
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Randy Cordle
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Frank, Lee, and Mel: (and everyone else…)
OK. You guys asked a few simple questions, so here goes my long-winded response.
You guys have wet my curiosity as to the amount of interest in 7 and 8 string laps. Since I play 6 string, and only in E and G tunings, I’m unfamiliar with the technical perspective of the 7 and 8 string lap steels. I could certainly CAD a print up for a 7 or 8 string lap steel if you think there’s enough interest. To produce a construction print such as the free 6 string lap steel drawing on my website I’ll need some info from you guys. (Others please feel free to chime in).
First, Should I consider both 7 and 8 string instruments? I don’t know what the interest is for these varieties. Since I need to do a working instrument from the drawings I’d like to have a quick synopsis of 7 and 8 string details that I can work from without doing a ton of research. Searching past postings on scale length and tuning preference seems to be as varied as the number of responses. If I could obtain the information from you folks as a starting point I could more easily produce a good construction drawing. I’ll offer the finished drawing as a half-size PDF on my website for anyone to use as they see fit. I’ll probably offer it as a full size drawing that can be reproduced at the local Kinko’s for a small fee. I’m also considering offering a stainless steel bridge assembly with string anchor points and over-wound single coil pickup for 6, 7, or 8 string lap steel guitar construction as well as other items that would be of use to amateur builders.
So, here are the questions I’d like some input on:
1. Preference for 7 or 8 strings?
2. Scale length? (Here’s a can of worms to be opened…)
3. Nut and bridge string spacing? This could also be dependant on the number of strings… 6, 7, or
Going out on a limb here, I personally have settled for string spacing of 11/32” at the nut and 3/8” at the bridge, at least for 6 string lap. There seems to be a lot of varying opinions as to the “correct” setup for string spacing. Narrow, wide, taper, no taper, parallel 3/8”...all seem to have their own devotees.
4. Headstock style, i.e. “Classic Oahu” or “A” style like the Bluestem I-10 on my website. I have a preference here for the “A” style, as it is easier to get a straight string path to the tuning post. Also, I’m sold on vertical posts, rather than vertical tuning buttons. It takes little time to adjust to tuning a conventional guitar style tuner and the ease of string changes makes up for the tuner buttons mounted in a pan. (IMHO)
5. What’s a good tuning for a 7 and 8 string lap steel, and what would be the appropriate string gauges for said tunings?
6. Any preference for single coil vs. double coil pickups? (Arranged as classic hum buckers or with a Stringmaster-style blend pot configuration)
So, Have at it and let me know what your likes are!
OK. You guys asked a few simple questions, so here goes my long-winded response.
You guys have wet my curiosity as to the amount of interest in 7 and 8 string laps. Since I play 6 string, and only in E and G tunings, I’m unfamiliar with the technical perspective of the 7 and 8 string lap steels. I could certainly CAD a print up for a 7 or 8 string lap steel if you think there’s enough interest. To produce a construction print such as the free 6 string lap steel drawing on my website I’ll need some info from you guys. (Others please feel free to chime in).
First, Should I consider both 7 and 8 string instruments? I don’t know what the interest is for these varieties. Since I need to do a working instrument from the drawings I’d like to have a quick synopsis of 7 and 8 string details that I can work from without doing a ton of research. Searching past postings on scale length and tuning preference seems to be as varied as the number of responses. If I could obtain the information from you folks as a starting point I could more easily produce a good construction drawing. I’ll offer the finished drawing as a half-size PDF on my website for anyone to use as they see fit. I’ll probably offer it as a full size drawing that can be reproduced at the local Kinko’s for a small fee. I’m also considering offering a stainless steel bridge assembly with string anchor points and over-wound single coil pickup for 6, 7, or 8 string lap steel guitar construction as well as other items that would be of use to amateur builders.
So, here are the questions I’d like some input on:
1. Preference for 7 or 8 strings?
2. Scale length? (Here’s a can of worms to be opened…)
3. Nut and bridge string spacing? This could also be dependant on the number of strings… 6, 7, or
Going out on a limb here, I personally have settled for string spacing of 11/32” at the nut and 3/8” at the bridge, at least for 6 string lap. There seems to be a lot of varying opinions as to the “correct” setup for string spacing. Narrow, wide, taper, no taper, parallel 3/8”...all seem to have their own devotees.
4. Headstock style, i.e. “Classic Oahu” or “A” style like the Bluestem I-10 on my website. I have a preference here for the “A” style, as it is easier to get a straight string path to the tuning post. Also, I’m sold on vertical posts, rather than vertical tuning buttons. It takes little time to adjust to tuning a conventional guitar style tuner and the ease of string changes makes up for the tuner buttons mounted in a pan. (IMHO)
5. What’s a good tuning for a 7 and 8 string lap steel, and what would be the appropriate string gauges for said tunings?
6. Any preference for single coil vs. double coil pickups? (Arranged as classic hum buckers or with a Stringmaster-style blend pot configuration)
So, Have at it and let me know what your likes are!
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Peter Jacobs
- Posts: 982
- Joined: 4 Aug 1998 11:00 pm
- Location: Northern Virginia
Randy - this is very cool, and let me first say that I appreciate you being so generous with your time and talents.
I agree with you re: tuner orientation -- it's just easier for me to get the strings on when they are in guitar position. Have you considered a 6-in-line headstock? I've been thinking about building a steel with this configuration because all the tuners will be on the player's side, so no awkward contortions. Just a thought.
I'm a 6-stringer, too. I can see the apeal of 7 or 8, but I have enough trouble as it is. For pickups, I love the openness of single coils and the power of humbuckers. How about P-90s? They can be sweet or nasty, depending on your amp settings.
I'm anxious to see your bridge assembly.
Hope I haven't gone too far into left field.
Peter
I agree with you re: tuner orientation -- it's just easier for me to get the strings on when they are in guitar position. Have you considered a 6-in-line headstock? I've been thinking about building a steel with this configuration because all the tuners will be on the player's side, so no awkward contortions. Just a thought.
I'm a 6-stringer, too. I can see the apeal of 7 or 8, but I have enough trouble as it is. For pickups, I love the openness of single coils and the power of humbuckers. How about P-90s? They can be sweet or nasty, depending on your amp settings.
I'm anxious to see your bridge assembly.
Hope I haven't gone too far into left field.
Peter
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Bill Creller
- Posts: 3740
- Joined: 29 Oct 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
The vertical post tuners are a lot easier to do for people who are not into a lot of woodworking. The vertical tuner knobs are handier for tuning, but a slotted peghead is a lot more work to fabricate. I have built only one guitar with the "A" style head stock you mentioned. Actually I prefer the slotted peghead like a Rick frypan, but again, it's more work.