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Topic: After all these years, I guess I've gone stupik... |
Michael Douchette
From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
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Posted 22 May 2007 4:58 pm |
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I cannot figure out what my problem is. I have tried every way I can think of to adjust the pedal length on my floor pedals on my Sho-Bud, and I just can't get 'em set where I can comfortably avoid accidentally hitting the A or B pedal when I want just one of them. I've never had this problem. It has the skinny pedals, like my Franklin, so it's not like I'm not able to do those. I can put my foot out there to hit A by itself (improper). I just can't get the clearance for the foot rock correct. I want the sus chord with B, and I just hit enough of A to throw it out, bad. Ditto the other with the 6- with A... just enough B to make my teeth hurt.
WHADDA I DO??
(And don't tell me to pull my teeth, ya bunch of Magoo's...) 
_________________
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.
http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html
(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/ |
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Colby Tipton
From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
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Posted 22 May 2007 5:15 pm
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Mikey,
Didn't you just change over to a single neck on that Sho~Bud? That may be what it is, closer into your pedals than on a double neck. |
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Jim Cohen
From:
Philadelphia, PA
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Posted 22 May 2007 5:20 pm
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You've gone stupik?? Well, ya know the spelling center in the brain is the first think to goe... 
Last edited by Jim Cohen on 23 May 2007 3:28 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Michael Douchette
From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
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A. J. Schobert
From:
Cincinnati, Ohio,
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Posted 22 May 2007 5:31 pm
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| Do you wear cowboy boots? |
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Colby Tipton
From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
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Posted 22 May 2007 5:48 pm
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| I can play on my "Bud" double for a while then back to my Carter double and just the inch or so less width on the Carter gives me trouble for a little while. |
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Dave Mudgett
From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
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Posted 22 May 2007 5:54 pm
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I had this issue with my Legrande D-10 when I first got it. I think the problem was that the pedal action was too light - even the slightest touch started engaging the pedals. I changed the leverages around to stiffen up the action some - I can still play it in socks (which I never do), but it requires a reasonably firm touch now, and it's much better.
My Sho Bud Professional model 6139 has the pedals closer to the middle of the pedalboard than normal. It definitely took a little while to get used to it. For my long legs, geometry is critical, and the slightest change can mess me up.
Just a couple of thoughts - your issue may be different. |
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Bob Blair
From:
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Posted 22 May 2007 6:39 pm
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| Mikey, I think Colby may be on to something - I had a similar experience when I acquired an S-10 as my alternate axe. Some monkeying around with my seating position ultimately helped, but I wound up going to an SD-10 because I never felt comfortable changing back and forth between teh D-10 and the S-10. I had an adjustable keyboard seat I was using with the S-10, and raising the height a tad actually made a difference as I recall. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 22 May 2007 7:11 pm
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| Maybe stiffer feel in the pedals would help, too, as well as sitting back a little from the guitar, as suggested above. The Shobuds have two holes in the pedals themselves--the one close to the pedal bar is a softer feel, and the hole closer to you is a little stiffer feel. You might look at that' also. |
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Michael Douchette
From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
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Posted 22 May 2007 7:39 pm
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Cowboy boots - no. Rockports and Reeboks.
It's a Coop, and there is 0 resistance in the pedals; smoothest action I've ever owned. That and seating position may be it. I'll try sitting back from it a bit as if there were a neck there. I noticed the different holes in the pedals; A is in the one away from the pedal bar, B and C are in the one closer to it. I'll try the seating position before I start moving pedals. The guitar almost plays itself, the action is so light...
_________________
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.
http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html
(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/ |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 22 May 2007 7:53 pm
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| Yeah, those Coop parts are so soft, you have to "look" sometimes. Another thing you can try, too, is add another spring to one of the two hole puller of the "too soft pedal". Or replace the existing spring with a stiffer one. |
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Henry Nagle
From:
Santa Rosa, California
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Posted 22 May 2007 11:07 pm
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| Could it be that the pedal travel is a little longer than you're used too? |
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Michael Douchette
From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 23 May 2007 4:10 am
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| You can raise them or you can lower them. I do not believe you can shorten the travel, though. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 23 May 2007 4:11 am
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Last edited by James Morehead on 23 May 2007 5:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 23 May 2007 5:10 am
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| One possible way to shorten the pedal travel is, if there's more than one hole in the bell crank that the pedal rod hooks into, move the pedal rod to a hole closer to the axle, if there's room. |
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Stephen Dorocke
From:
Tres Piedras, New Mexico
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Posted 23 May 2007 6:49 am
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| It seems to me, that to shorten pedal travel, one should move the pedal rod away from the axle....but maybe I got it all wrong.. |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 23 May 2007 7:36 am
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It's always tough (for me) to reason these mechanical questions out, but I believe closer to the axle is correct.
F--------X1-------X2 . . . . .y
A--------------------B . . . .z
If F is the fulcrum (axle),
and X1 and X2 are the two holes in the bell crank
When the line F->X2 (the bell crank) is rotated toward line AB, which represents the stop point of the bell crank, when X2 reaches AB, X1 will have traveled less vertically (y->z), but the amount of rotation is the same.
Since the pull rod's attachment point is unchanged, the same rotation of its bell crank, and the same amount of pull on the pull rod can be achieved with less vertical movement of the pedal rod and pedal if the pedal pull is applied at X1.
(Putting these things into words is even harder than reasoning them out!)
The other thing is, this is what I do on my LDG with wide pedals, and it works!
Last edited by Brint Hannay on 23 May 2007 8:32 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Stephen Dorocke
From:
Tres Piedras, New Mexico
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Posted 23 May 2007 7:48 am
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| ah yes.. I was confusing pedal rod with pull rod.. |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 23 May 2007 11:18 am
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On the pedal, the furthest hole away from the pedal axle (pivot) will be the shortest throw.
Michael already has the A pedal using this second hole, perhaps the B pedal should use the second hole as well ?
As an aside, having a shorter pedal throw also has the advantage of allowing the left leg knee levers to be closer to the knee, making for an easier playing style  |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 23 May 2007 12:42 pm
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Michael, if you were used to a D10 and switched to an S10, the pedals are closer to you, therefore your ankle is at a different angle than you're used to. The closer your foot is to your seat, the harder it will be to rotate your foot to the left and right.
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 23 May 2007 3:32 pm
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| I am not familiar with the Coop parts, but on my stock mid 70's Lloyd Green there are three holes where the pedal rod connects to the mechanism. By using the hole closest in, the pedal travel is shortened and the action slightly stiffened. Hooking it to the outermost hole has the opposite effect. Hope this has been helpful. Sorry, did not notice that this had already been addressed. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 23 May 2007 5:20 pm
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| Michael, I would just call Coop, since he built if for you. He will be able to get you fixed up, since he rebuilt the guitar for you. |
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Michael Douchette
From:
Gallatin, TN (deceased)
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Posted 23 May 2007 7:37 pm
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Guys, you hit it right on the head. I pulled my seat back a bit today, problem solved. The S10 width, combined with the fact that the knee levers are farther away from me because there's no extra back neck for them to be hanging from was causing my foot to be turned too far to the outside. If I sit back far enough where I can just make contact with LKL, the floor pedals are not an issue.
You guys are great...
_________________
Mikey D... H.S.P.
Music hath the charm to soothe a savage beast, but I'd try a 10mm first.
http://www.steelharp.com
http://www.thesessionplayers.com/douchette.html
(other things you can ask about here)
http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o54/Steelharp/ |
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Bo Legg
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Posted 23 May 2007 8:07 pm
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Hi Michael
I had the same problem on my Sho-Bud Super pro.
I solved the problem by staggering the pedals -_-
A & C higher than the B pedal and shorten the B pedal travel (Bell Crank holes or pedal holes or both) so that with my foot tilted on the B pedal I just barely touch the A pedal and then adjust the C pedal until with your foot tilted on the B pedal You just barely touch the C pedal. I then adjust the travel on the A & B pedals so that when I tilt my foot on the A pedal I just barely touch the B Pedal and same for th C pedal. I've been playing this steel for a long time and have not had that problem anymore. The B pedal is quicker but only took a few min. to get used to but I've found that to be an improvement. I can now rock the pedals cleaner and it has improved my speed. |
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