So I've been spending a few hours "under the hood" of my recently acquired D-10 8/4 sho-bud getting it set up for me. Its been an interesting experience and I definitely feel alot more comfortable as to how it all works.
When I get the time and the grey matter to figure it out I'll post some pics. It's a bit of a one off. No model # Built as a proto-type for Bobbe Seymour. Looking underneath it really appears to be all hand built--which is to say there are a number of minor human imperfections through out and a few goofy things like knee lever pull rods colliding with bell cranks and cross shafts (fixed with a little judicious bending and filing) and a couple of holes where stuff was moved. Anyways- I digress-more like my 77 yo father every day.
The question: What kind of oil should I use? Also is it necessary to lubricate the changer and how would I go about that? Is it normal to oil where the pedal rods go into the bell cranks? Any other mechanical maintenance on these old guitars would be much appreciated.
Brian
Proper Sho-Bud Lubrication
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Brian McGibney
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 14 Mar 2007 6:42 am
- Location: British Columbia, Canada
Proper Sho-Bud Lubrication
Measure twice, cut once unless its really expensive, in that case measure thrice just to be sure.
If it ain't broke-don't fix it.
Never enough time to do it right-always enough time to do it over.
A lack of planning in your world...does not constitute an emergency in mine.
Life is not a dress rehearsal
If it ain't broke-don't fix it.
Never enough time to do it right-always enough time to do it over.
A lack of planning in your world...does not constitute an emergency in mine.
Life is not a dress rehearsal
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George Shute
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 6 Jun 2002 12:01 am
- Location: Sidney, B.C., Canada
Lubricating a SHO-BUD
Hi Brian:
I have an old 1972 SHO-BUD D-10 8/4 and I find the best thing to do is to go to the drug store and buy yourself an insulin syringe...1ml with a 5/8 inch needle. File the point off the needle so you wont jab yourself.
Get some sewing machine or gun oil and fill up the syringe, put a small drop of oil on all moving parts where they rub on each other.
The easiest way to oil under neath is to put your steel in its case on the table or work bench.
You will be able to reach all the oiling points with the long syringe and with the fine needle the drop of oil will be very small so you wont get oil all over every thing.
On the top side I put a drop of oil on each side of each brass roller,and a drop on each side of each finger that is used, while doing this I work the pedals and knee levers to get the oil down to the shaft.
The changer should be taken apart and cleaned and re oiled but that is a big job and you will need a couple of days and a good knowledge of your steel before you tackle that.
If I can be of any more help to you drop me an e-mail.....George
I have an old 1972 SHO-BUD D-10 8/4 and I find the best thing to do is to go to the drug store and buy yourself an insulin syringe...1ml with a 5/8 inch needle. File the point off the needle so you wont jab yourself.
Get some sewing machine or gun oil and fill up the syringe, put a small drop of oil on all moving parts where they rub on each other.
The easiest way to oil under neath is to put your steel in its case on the table or work bench.
You will be able to reach all the oiling points with the long syringe and with the fine needle the drop of oil will be very small so you wont get oil all over every thing.
On the top side I put a drop of oil on each side of each brass roller,and a drop on each side of each finger that is used, while doing this I work the pedals and knee levers to get the oil down to the shaft.
The changer should be taken apart and cleaned and re oiled but that is a big job and you will need a couple of days and a good knowledge of your steel before you tackle that.
If I can be of any more help to you drop me an e-mail.....George